Three Simple Questions for an '88

[BradinPCB]

1.  If you read my other thread RE: non-working AC unit, you'll know it's blowing but the compressor isn't staying on but shutting off after 30 secs. or so.  Things to check were closed seacock, clogged filter, and lack of system prime.  I've narrowed that down to system prime as I see water in the filter but no flow.    How do I restore prime to see if this fixes it or moves me on to some other issue?  I also have found it impossible to identify the exit flow.  I can see the water out of the AC and the hose is routed somewhere toward port under the nav desk (the AC unit is in the nav desk storage closet) but that's where I lose it and cannot see it coming to any other door/hull hatch.  So I lose where it goes off the system - and I've looked high and low and very frustrated. 

2.  The fuel gauge shows full.  Any tips to verify this is correct?  Long story short, for a few simple reasons she can't be sailed right now so I can't simply go to top it off. 

3.  Same sort of ? RE: holding tank but there isn't a gauge or meter and the tank level can't be verified by sight.  Any way to check it's level without just playing the waiting game of topping it off and all which that could mean? 

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Remembered I took some photos of the AC if it helps.....AC 2 is WATER IN, AC is WATER OUT

[BradinPCB]

UGHHH...make that four questions.  I forgot this one - here is my battery charger.  Is this a really old one?  I see nothing like it on C-Charger's website and can only find one doing a google image search and I have to scroll a LONG way to get to it.  I'm still troubleshooting the battery boil-off problem and wonder if I need to scrap this thing all the way around. 

[Noah]

1. A/C is not standard (that I know of), and PO could have done god knows what. I recommend calling a marine A/C tech, if you can't solve.
2. Short answer, no. Gauge inaccurate due to shape of tank. Slowly fill until you hear vent "starts to overflow". If you are quick, no issue, but have rags/fuel diaper handi. After full, use rough calc. of 1/2 gal. per hr. For M25 and XP engine, 3/4 for 30 hp.
3. No again. Could install tank gauge (I did) and works well. Search forum for info or PM me if you like and I will share.
Enjoy!

[KWKloeber]

 What have you done to "troubleshoot and "the battery boil off issue? As I said, you likely have a bad cell.

Regarding the fuel tank, you can verify if the gauge  and wire circuit is working, but the only way to tell if the fuel level sender is working, is to pull it off the tank.
If you are full, and rap the side of the tank you'll hear a completely different sound than if it is empty (hollow) You should also be able to tell the difference between a half full and a full tank, but you'd have to have an ear for it and know what to listen for.

With the tank/sender/gauge/wiring you have these possibilities:

1. The tank is full, gauge and  wire circuit is working fine.  Yeaaa.
2. The gauge is bad - you can verify if the gauge is good or bad.
3. The wiring circuit is open - this is unlikely because your gauge reads full.
4. The wiring circuit is grounded somewhere along its path. That would cause your gauge to read full
5. The sender is bad, you can  verify  that only by removing it  and operating the float.

The wire circuit you can check via continuity tester or ohmmeter, the gauge troubleshooting steps are in the tech wiki.

kk

[Jon W]

Fuel level- Remove the port side wood panel in the aft cabin to get access to the fuel tank. Remove the bolts/screws holding the fuel gauge sender to the tank flange on top of the tank. Carefully slide the sender to one side. Take a thin dowel @18" long to use as a "story pole"/dip stick. Holding one end securely, insert vertically into the tank. DON'T LET GO!! Once the dowel hits bottom, pull the dowel out. The dowel will be wet where the fuel is. Mark with a sharpie where the wet meets dry. Stand the dowel next to the outside side of the tank and see where the sharpie line is. That's the fuel level in the tank.

Determining how many gallons is tough because the tank is oddly shaped. For a quick very crude estimate of gallons of fuel in the tank I used ~2 gallons per inch. So if you have 10" from the bottom of dowel to the sharpie mark, you have ~20 gallons of fuel. Then use .5-.75 gallons used per hour of engine run time and compare to the fuel gauge in the cockpit. This isn't perfect but will let you sail with some confidence for now.

[Ken Krawford]

One other possibility with your A/C is that the pump is bad.  Many of these pumps are magnetic and sound like they're running but if the impellers are worn out, little or no flow results.  Take the hose off the pump outlet and see if there's flow when the A/C first starts up.
I put a T in the pump outlet line just downstream of the pump for when I lose prime.  All I have to do is open the valve in the T and the pump re-primes itself in a few seconds.

[Roc]

You say you can't determine where the A/C exit flow is, if I read your post correctly.  Have you looked around the perimeter of the outside hull, close to the water line and most notably near the area of where your A/C is located.  You may see a round thru hull exit near the boot stripe somewhere.  It might be routed all the way aft and exiting near the transom.  Check there too.

[Fred Koehlmann]

For your number three question, about tank meter for holding tank, take a look at the Profile tank meter (http://www.ferriellosales.com/monitoring-systems.html).

I installed one into our C34 MkII, and used it to measure holding tank and both water tanks. You can also get sensors for your fuel tanks, but you probably want that to show up- at your helm instead. I'd keep it separate.

Ferriello Sales were helpful, and when my unit prematurely died on me (apparently an EM pulse I was told), he sent me a replacement at no charge.

[BradinPCB]

What have you done to "troubleshoot and "the battery boil off issue? As I said, you likely have a bad cell.

I've used the ball type meter and if I test a cell 5 times, I get 8 different answers (hyperbole of course, but you get the point) - none which show a significantly weak cell.  So I've purchased one of the bigger units and will be testing with that and I've chatted with other knowledgable folks who do not suspect it is a bad cell as there is no sign of battery weakness to this point. These are actually very new batteries and all signs point to an overcharge (to other experienced sailors at my dock), not a bad cell.  Could be but as I don't have a remedy yet, I'm still looking for any answers.  I have scant information about this battery charger and need a bit more wisdom about that regardless, so if anyone knows about what I posted a picture of, that'd be great! :)

[KWKloeber]

Charles has discontinued most its product line - but the question is, what series C-charger is that? 
ie. a pic of the data plate or series name would help.

kk

[Ron Hill]

Brad : On the fuel tank I'd just dribble fuel in the tank until it starts to come out the overflow OR tak a wooden dowel as mentioned .

On the charge I'd junk it and get a smart charge which will be kind to your batteries!!

a few thoughts

[BradinPCB]

Brad : On the fuel tank I'd just dribble fuel in the tank until it starts to come out the overflow OR tak a wooden dowel as mentioned .

On the charge I'd junk it and get a smart charge which will be kind to your batteries!!

a few thoughts

Many thanks to you and to all others for your advice.  I'm gonna take it! :)

[KWKloeber]

Brad

Just thinkin' -- had you measured the voltage and amps supplied to/accepted by the battery in the boil over state?

Basically, the battery control how much current is accepted -- based on the voltage supplied at the battery terminals.  So it's key what the voltage reading is.

ken