Removing Original Nicro Vent

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sailscituate

Hoping to tap into the wealth of knowledge out there. When I bought Reverie last season, the solar vents were pretty much taped in place, non-functioning. I believe they are the original Nicro vents.  Replacing them is on my punch list before launch. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on loosening whatever adhesive/sealant was used to install them. Screws are out, but there's no give from the cabin top. Also no apparent place to begin from inside the head or aft cabin.  I've attached pics.  While I'm at it, I'm wondering if there's any new perspective on going with the Marinco Nicro at the higher price point, or the cheaper versions that are roughly half the price. Thanks in advance for any insight on both points.

Ben H.

I replaced my solar vent last fall. I took both a plastic and metal putty knife and slowly went around the edge of the vent with them to break free the old sealant. I did scratch the gelcoat a little, but it was all covered by the solar vent when reinstalled.

May be other less brute force ways of doing it, but it worked for me.
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Noah

#2
I replaced mine with the stainless steel new one now manufactured by Marinco. I read the motors weren't as good as the originals and didn't last as long as old NF. I had problems with my new one not working from day one thinking it was not get enough sun due to the dodger and cursed it--until I changed the battery--and it has been working great ever since. Bad battery out of the box! To remove old vent, try some "DeBond Marine Formula" spray; let it soak and then lever it/pry it/muscle it out.  Also, they do sell expensive OEM rechargeable batteries for them at WM, but you can no doubt find cheaper online.
What year is your boat? It helps to put that info in your signature.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

sailscituate

Thanks for the response. Just fixed my signature, but the boat's a 1987 Tall Rig.

Haven't tried too hard to remove the vents yet, wanted to get an idea of how others tackled it. Obviously, there's going to be a fair amount of elbow grease involved no matter what else I use.

KWKloeber

Again not having direct eyes/fingers on this...... I would probably try a heat gun to soften the sealant.  If that had no effect, since I'd not be saving it, I'd start de-engineering it.  Oftentimes it's necessary to attack such things in small sections rather than in the entirety.  In conjunction with heat, I'd slice off the vent for better access and, with a dremel cutoff blade, cut slots across the flange as deep as I could w/o going all the way thru.  Spacing them a smidgen wider than my 2" persuader tool. 

My go-to tool would be my very well made, very stiff, scraper-type putty knife w/ a beveled knife edge, not square edge (Home Depot, Husky brand) that works great to get underneath and persuade things such as this.

YMMV

kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

DaveBMusik

All great suggestions!
Note that looking up from inside, both plastic cylinders come out as one if i remember correctly.

I replaced mine last year and was able to pry them out but I think Ken's method would be a bit easier on the boat!
Dave Burgess
Water Music
1986 C34 Hull #206, Fin Keel
Yanmar 3YM30
Noank, CT

KWKloeber

If it's similar construction, my Nicro was a pop-up, the inside cylinder sliding inside of, but captive within, the outside shell. 
It could probably be made non captive, with a large enough persuader.

ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

KWKloeber

I might add to be more gentle on the deck, use the same method as using a wood chisel.

Initially start w/ the bevel upside down, holding the tool at an angle off the deck.  It will have less tendency to cut into the fiberglass, than the sharp edge being driven downward into the fiberglass by the flange.

kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

I hsve had luck using "DeBond Marine Formula" spray to soften whatever adhesive.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

lazybone

Quote from: Noah on March 31, 2017, 09:38:29 AM
I replaced mine with the stainless steel new one now manufactured by Marinco. I read the motors weren't as good as the originals and didn't last as long as old NF. I had problems with my new one not working from day one thinking it was not get enough sun due to the dodger and cursed it--until I changed the battery--and it has been working great ever since. Bad battery out of the box! To remove old vent, try some "DeBond Marine Formula" spray; let it soak and then lever it/pry it/muscle it out.  Also, they do sell expensive OEM rechargeable batteries for them at WM, but you can no doubt find cheaper online.
What year is your boat? It helps to put that info in your signature.

Noah,  do you remember what size battery.  I just bought two dozen AAA from Amazon and have a few left over.  Are they soldered in?
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Noah

#10
"C" cell size high capacity NiMh (nickel/metal hydride)
1.2 volts, 2.0 amp-hours it is NOT soldered in. Just unscrew solar charger lens lift up
and battery snaps in place inside.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

lazybone

#11
We must have different units. Mine is a glue together non-serviceable thing.
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

britinusa

Replaced our vents last October.
Was able to lever the old units out of their sleeves, but had to break the sleeves up in order to remove them.

Link to my Blog Post - Time To Vent

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Sailing48N

I replaced the port site last summer and the starboard side just last weekend. Technically I re-added the one on the starboard side as the PO had covered up that one with a beckson port instead of replacing the failed unit.

I used a putty knife to slide between the cabin top and the old units to free them up. Took only 15 minutes or so each time.

Also, I got lucky and bought them from WM when they were on sale at roughly 50% off. I was kicking myself last year when I had only bought one. When they came up on sale again last month I bought it right away. :)
Russell & Lindsay
1986 Hull #154 - Standard Rig / Fin Keel
Tacoma, WA