Thru hull backing plates

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

britinusa

While replacing the engine stop cable, I took a dozen plus pics from inside the the aft locker.
They show that each of the thru hulls have plywood backing plates  (more like washers ) about 1/4" thick. And they appear to be breaking down / drying out.

Most certainly they're original.

They're all above the water line.

Replace?

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Noah

Maybe. Photos wiil not tell complete story. You need to poke around with an "implement" to check plywood wood intergrety. If good, then paint to seal. Otherwise....
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

britinusa

Pics
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

britinusa

Another pic.

And link to album of them.
https://goo.gl/photos/jBeHGMD19HsqvceG9

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

KWKloeber

Paul,

I doubt you're in danger of sinking, but I see your concern.  If mine looked like that I'd probably put them on my A- or B+ list,

RC (maine sail) has an article on installing bronze thru hulls, but you might be able to glean some tips for yours. 

I would think that they would be an ideal application for G-10 (although a little pricey) but you could certainly use meranti ply and seal the faces with epoxy.

-ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

I believe you said all of those are above the waterline. Then my advice still stands: poke them with tool and check for soft wood. If ok, just paint. What does look somewhat shaky is rusty hose core wire and possibly the PVC elbow (but Ken will tell you if that's "bad" PVC).
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

britinusa

Thanks Ken, Noah.
The rusty one is my main concern too.

I followed Mainsail's process when I put the new thru hull for the A/C discharge. Made the backing plate from layers of glass cloth.

Will dig into it (no pun intended)

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

KWKloeber

good eye noah, I didn't zero in on the elbow.

If it's above WL, then, I suppose, "it's all good." 

But -- BIG <- that's a big "but", a great big beautiful but,  It's HUGE in fact.  Thru hulls are parallel thread.  A female NPT should not be used on a male parallel thread.  "Ever" - but since it's above WL, YBYC.

It is acceptable to thread a male NPT into a FEMALE parallel thread (noah -- such as that sink hose barb I sent.)  Just be very careful not to cross thread.

I presume those (some?) are cockpit scupper hoses?   They go out of sight, out of mine.  One of mine disintegrated and leaked at a most inopportune time, and contributed to a $400 diesel mechanic's bill (long "perfect storm" story), and a whole lot of headache and heartache and self *ss-kicking.


kk


Quote from: Noah on December 07, 2016, 04:50:24 PM
I believe you said all of those are above the waterline. Then my advice still stands: poke them with tool and check for soft wood. If ok, just paint. What does look somewhat shaky is rusty hose core wire and possibly the PVC elbow (but Ken will tell you if that's "bad" PVC).
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

Guys : I was told many years ago the reason for the plywood between the thru hull nut and the plywood was to act as a cushion between the curved hull and the flat surface of the nut.

It's somethin that needs to be checked at each haul out and re-splash.
 
From the pictures I'd say that these thru hulls needed to be rebidded awhile ago.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788