Here are the most requested photos ;)

[Capt.Jim]

Pls let me know what do you see at my panel photos. Anything bad?
My electrician will be on board on Dec 5th..

Also few photos of the floorboards i mentioned. Does anybody sells the replacement panels of these?

And one last one showing her cleaning up!!!

[Noah]

Looks like you are making progress.
1. Topsides shining nicely
2. Behind panel looks remarkably "clean" to me, a semi electrical
layman".  Others are sure to comment i replaced my entire panel and most of my wiring, Like Jon W did, with a Blue Sea 360 panel sustem--but that's another level of project.
3. Cabin sole: standard C34 teak holly plywood. It may be saveable/brought back with hopefully minimal stains remaining. The top veneer is thin, so be cautious with hard sanding. Refinish is first recommended to try. I would use chemical stripper, some wood bleach, medium to light sanding then 4-5 coats of finish of your choice (matte spar varnish or polyurethane, or... Lots of options there. I prefer "Epifanes wood finish matte". Otherwise, if that is a failure or doesn't meet your standards, you can buy teak and holly plywood (expensive) and make replacements. See/search "cabin sole"
topics.
Good luck.

[KWKloeber]

Jim, 

echoing Noah, i've seen a LOT WORSE panels, hiding a lot of potential woes and fire hazards.  I'm not familiar with the panel layout, so check things like any "PO added" hot leads that were left unfused; colors (black for 12v negatives only (never hot wires,) green for bonding wires.) 

It could benefit from covering the A/C hot area (also required on new installs.)

I don't like the old non-marine sta-kon terminals -- I found many of my OEMs were actually loose on the wire (bad crimps!!)  It would be a benefit to change them all to heat shrink terminals.  I'll bet a beer that if any terminals are forks, they are the non compliant version (need to remain captive on the terminal strip if the screw loosens a little. Better to use rings.

Notice that each 12v bank is fed from one end and hop-scotched along?  I found enough V loss along the way that I fed both ends and noticeably reduced loss.

Look to see if you have a bond wire between the 12 neg terminal strip and the green 120v grounded wire.  It's a double edge sword -- it's "required" but then it opens you up to galvanic corrosion from leakage from any other
boat.  There's other alternatives.

If you are looking to do any 120v upgrading, adding an ELIC main breaker is top of the list (for safety.)  It's required for new builds and a worthwhile addition.

I used the orange citrus stripper that Walmart has on some teak -- works pretty well w/ multiple applications, fairly kind to the wood, and no toxic, mind bending odor.  I clean and bleach teak with oxyclean - careful, not too wet or the veneer may delaminate.  Many lighter applications and sun.  To replace just yours as templates, relatively easy to do. 

Topsides look great!! do you know what wax they used?

-kk

[KWKloeber]

Are you planning to have someone completely check the standing rigging while she's on the hard?

k

[Capt.Jim]

Are you planning to have someone completely check the standing rigging while she's on the hard?

k

Checking? Yes...
Replacing anything ? Nope, not during this haulout.. Already a lot of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ gone!

[mregan]

My floor boards looked in worse shape than yours when I bought her.  My father sanded all the floorboards and re-coated with 8 coats of Epifanes gloss.  They looked brand new when we re-installed them.  I think you should be able to do the same with yours.

[Capt.Jim]

My floor boards looked in worse shape than yours when I bought her.  My father sanded all the floorboards and re-coated with 8 coats of Epifanes gloss.  They looked brand new when we re-installed them.  I think you should be able to do the same with yours.

Thank you I will try that...

[Noah]

IMO matte finish is better on cabin sole. You can use gloss for build-up coat but not good/practical final finish for floor. I prefer Eifanes "wood finish" product as you can do many coats without sanding up to 72 hrs. between coats. I use this system for build-up. If you want gloss (in other brightwork areas) it comes in gloss as well, or you can do your final coats with Eifanes gloss varnish (highest UV protectant) on top of their "wood finish" product but will need to let dry 24 hrs and sand (320 grit) between coats. Everyone has a favorite "varnish/finish". Very subjective. Check Practical Sailor mag for reviews, too.

[KWKloeber]

Have to second Noah's ephifanes.  It's tough as nails.  Long ago I used Ep (gloss) on some demanding surfaces like my sunfish daggerboard and rudder and tiller -- and it was outstanding.  I did think applying it was not quite as forgiving as some other finishes, but these weren't critical like a teak sole so I'm sure I wasn't as careful as I'd be otherwise and no doubt rushed things.   

I will say my current go-to finish is Helmsman urethane semi-gloss for teak woodwork -- it flows like greased lightning and looks great (below).  The semiG on my teak bulkheads, and is just enough sheen so the teak doesn't look half worn, but not so much so it shows every imperfection.   I can't say how tough it would be for a sole, as my use was on light wear surfaces (bulkheads, cabinets, and drawer faces.)

kk

[Barry White]

I'm also a fan of Epifanes Gloss, used it on my cabin sole about 4 years ago, (breaking all the rules, a single coat after carefully scraping the old finish as I found sanding to be slow and messy). I took the floor panels out, and did the scrape and refinish on my cradle while on the hard. The boat provided adequate shade from direct sun, and a light breeze expedited drying, re-installed late in the day. Happily, the finish has stood up very well.
Cheers,
Barry

S/V Endorfin , 1986 C-34, Tall Rig Fin Keel, Hull No. 98