Engine Coolant

[Jon W]

Was going to buy dex-cool to have onboard. Got to the auto store and wasn't sure which to get. Full strength or 50-50. Does it matter? Is dex-cool the right stuff? Thanks for the help.

[KWKloeber]

NO!  You don't want DexCool.  DC is the 'orange', "we have a better idea", semi-permanent coolant for newer GM vehicles -- that has caused a lot of problems and there's class actions against GM about it.

If you want earth-friendly antifreeze (say you have a leak and it goes into the bilge and overboard,) then use the Peak Sierra non (less) toxic, biodegradable, polypropylene-glycol antifreeze in the tree-hugger looking container.  However you can't use a run-of-the-mill (ethylene-glycol) tester with it -- you need to buy a PG tester (online @ Autozone, amazon, etc.)  Don't mix/match PG with EG antifreeze - use one or the other.  if you want to use the old standby use EG (green coolant -- also available in normal and "long life" (5-year) formula, but it's more toxic (sweet smelling/tasting to animals and deadly (kidney failure.)

I don't think PG comes in 50-50 mix, but it does in EG coolant.  Engines like a 50-50 mix because that's about the optimum mix for corrosion and boiling point protection.  So 50% is just for convenience, but you pay a premium for the auto parts store selling you distilled water.  In other words, 1 gal of 50-50 makes 1.0 gal of coolant; 1 gal of straight makes 2.0 gals of coolant.  If you have an extra gal container, buy full strength and mix it yourself so it's ready to go, or keep water aboard that you can use for both batteries or antifreeze when you need it and use the 100% flavor.  if you buy the 50%, you're just  paying for water (and they don't charge 1/2 as much for 50% mix.)

-kk

[Jon W]

I believe I have the orange coolant. To change I would have to drain the orange from the system correct?

[KWKloeber]

QUOTE  There are some coolants that claim compatibility with Dexcool, but I would rather err conservatively and add what the system is supposed to take rather than take the gamble.

YBYC, but if you are changing coolants, presumably for a reason (one wants less toxic, or wants to avoid the potential DexCool problems,) is it logical to leave the prior formula in the system and just add smidgens of the new?  If you do, then just continue using what's in there. That's like never doing an oil change and adding new oil when the level is down.

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/28/coolant-color/

google:  "dexcool problems"

[Ralph Masters]

If you have a bottle of AF sitting somewhere for storage, check it once in a while for leakage. I keep 2 quarts of oil, a quart of ATF and a gallon of antifreeze in a "waterproof" box in the lazerett and discovered about half the AF has leaked out. Fortunately it is contained, but now I need to figure out where/how to clean the mess.

Ralph

[Stu Jackson]

I believe I have the orange coolant. To change I would have to drain the orange from the system correct?

Yes, Jon.  Ken's right.  And to do that thoroughly, you'll need to drain it, then refill with distilled water, run the engine for a bit, drain that out, and perhaps do it again, before you put in the green antifreeze.

The easiest way I've found to drain the coolant is to use the method I photographed for "Burping the engine" in the 101 Topic.

Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6)  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462


I do not recommend using the petcock on the engine.  It's hard to get to and connect any kind of hose to it.  And petcocks are notorious for not resealing once opened.  My method is easy, from the front of the engine.  You could also get a new 90 degree 1" to 7/8" hose while you're at it.  Instead of paying marine prices, do a simple search on "Toyota" and you'll find the inexpensive way to get one.

Some will argue my method won't get all of the lowest stuff out.  But that's why you have to flush it again once or twice: to get all that old crap out.

Good luck.

[Ron Hill]

Jon W : If your "orange" coolant is Perstone Brand you should be OK.  I've used the "orange" extended life Prestone coolant for years.  Prestone advertised "Mix with any color antifreeze".

A thought 

[Jon W]

Not sure what brand the PO was using Ron, just know it's orange. To be safe I'll use Stu's method to clean it out then fill with green coolant when I get to that part of the list. Thanks everybody.

[J_Sail]

I'm not sure there is any reason to go to the expense and hassle of using distilled water for the flushing rather than tap water.  Such a tiny amount remains (and there is not a giant problem with tap water for diluting the coolant in the first place).  ** see my updated post on 12/2/16 below **

[Stu Jackson]

I use distilled water because 1) It has no contained particulates; 2) I use it for my batteries; 3) The cost and hassle of replacing the fresh water coolant pump is not something I want to get anywhere near.

Your boat, your choice. 

But I recommend using distilled water, available for REAL CHEAP and NO HASSLE at your local supermarket.

[J_Sail]

Based on some additional research I am amending my previous comment on using tap vs distilled water. In a previous post I said,
"I'm not sure there is any reason to go to the expense and hassle of using distilled water for the flushing rather than tap water.  Such a tiny amount remains (and there is not a giant problem with tap water for diluting the coolant in the first place)."

While I still think it unnecessary to use distilled water for the flushing, where only a small amount remains behind, I now understand that there is some suggested risk of an interaction between green-type antifreeze  and minerals in tap water that can cause sludge. Thus, I agree that it is prudent to use distilled water for diluting the antifreeze unless you know that your water is relatively mineral free. (Note - in an earlier version of this post I misstated the problem as relating to phosphates in the tap water. Ken correctly pointed out that the linked article says the risk is interaction between phosphates in green antifreeze and hard tap water)

Note, this is a chemical interaction; not an issue of particulates in the water.

ref:
https://www.facebook.com/GM3800Tips/posts/426021250880376
says, in part,
"Finally, many brands of green coolant have phosphates, which can form sludge deposits when hard water is mixed with the coolant. This is why it is best to mix distilled water with the coolant."

[KWKloeber]

J_

As I understand what you're saying, it's the hardness of the water supply and knowing that, instead of whether or not they report phosphates?
If there's phosphates in the green stuff, wouldn't it be somewhat irrelevant if it's also in the municipal water? 

Not that using distilled for the small amount needed to dilute is a major hardship anyway.

[KWKloeber]

J

I was referring to what you (I think) quoted:

.......says, in part,
"Finally, many brands of green coolant have phosphates, which can form sludge deposits when hard water is mixed with the coolant. This is why it is best to mix distilled water with the coolant."

That's what i read elsewhere also -- that the green (EG) af contains phosphates.   I took the quote that's it's diluting with hard water that causes the issue.  eg, if the (phosphate-containing) EG is diluted with soft water or "non-hard" water then no issue.  Therefore I concluded that hardness of the municipal water is the key, not how much phosphate is in the municipal water supply.

Maybe I misunderstood the quote

Ken

[Breakin Away]

He guys,

Interesting discussion. Why not just pay the 89 cents for a gallon of distilled water and be done with it? You'll sleep better, and your HX will be happier too. You just don't want to gunk things up.

[KWKloeber]

Not that using distilled for the small amount needed to dilute is a major hardship anyway.

uhhhh... already stated!  just as you say, a technical discussion to add to the knowledgebase...