DIY Docking Stick

[Dancrosswis]

Hi All,

I made up some Docking Stick knock off's this spring.  They worked great this summer, so I put up a Tech Wiki Article describing how I made them.  Hope some find this helpful.

Dan

[patrice]

Hi,

Nice writeup and well executed project

Note; in the last sentence in your step, you mention about cutting a bolt.  When ever you need to cut a bolt, always insert a nut on the thread further than the cut line.  Once finish the cut, unthread the nut slowly.  Do not remove it, stop just before the end, re thread  back and for a few time.  This will replace the last thread that was cut.

[Bobg]

Thank you, I always have new people on board, and docking is always my nagging issue while enjoying a sail.  This just must be the ticket for me.  I do have a docking line with the tube loop, that works great but sometimes with wind off the dock even that is to short to work, I am going to make one of these asap and put it on my Brest line, I only have one more dock to do this year before haulout and will get a chance to use it, I also make just about everything for my boat,  Thanks 
Bob

[Bobg]

Dan, not sure what the 1/4 inch bolt does, I think it is to put pressure on the dock line when you screw it in so it won't move while in the stick?, you say to tap the hole for the bolt, but then as per instructions, you insert bolt and "nut", guess I am a little confused at that step. If you tap the hole for the bolt, whats the nut for?  Maybe it is pretty plain but in my confused old age, I can't get it.  Thanks

[KWKloeber]

Dan,

Way cool knock off.   I might 'magine that one could vary the length to make the stick less obtrusive or whatever. 
Did you experiment with that?  Have you used it on a ball?  Hard to retrieve?

It would be great to see you use it in a video (yeah there's the website, but nothing like seeing yours in use.)

Can you make Stu a bull rail stick?  LOL

-ken

[Stu Jackson]

Can you make Stu a bull rail stick?  LOL

NOW you're talkin'!!!

[patrice]

Dan,

Way cool knock off.   I might 'magine that one could vary the length to make the stick less obtrusive or whatever. 
Did you experiment with that?

-ken

Hi,

I would think this is a temporary measure to use the line with the system.
You install proper line after securing the boat to the dock.

Let's hear from Dan his experience

[KWKloeber]

probably, but with the size of hard points varying from a 24" bollard to a 3" cleat, I would imagine that different size loops (and sticks) might be in order depending on the usual boating area and "the norm" one runs into.   On a small dock cleat, possibly a loop that is temporarily held open, but tightens most the way so that it tends to stay on and not slip off the cleat?

What's your range of beta trials and/or actual use, Dan?

[Dancrosswis]

Dan, not sure what the 1/4 inch bolt does, I think it is to put pressure on the dock line when you screw it in so it won't move while in the stick?, you say to tap the hole for the bolt, but then as per instructions, you insert bolt and "nut", guess I am a little confused at that step. If you tap the hole for the bolt, whats the nut for?  Maybe it is pretty plain but in my confused old age, I can't get it.  Thanks

Good Catch, Bob.  I fudged a bit here.  You're right, the bolt keeps the stick from sliding down the loop, which it definitely will do.  When I made up the sticks this spring, I did not include the nut.  The nut is threaded onto the bolt before the bolt is threaded into the pvc tube.  When the bolt is threaded in as far as needed to capture the docking line, the nut is tightened up against the pvc tube to keep the bolt in place.  I added the nut to my instructions.  I've not yet actually added it to my sticks, so it's not in the photos or diagrams.

Dan

[Dancrosswis]

When ever you need to cut a bolt, always insert a nut on the thread further than the cut line.  Once finish the cut, unthread the nut slowly.  Do not remove it, stop just before the end, re thread  back and for a few time.  This will replace the last thread that was cut.

Thanks Patrice.  I've used the technique you describe many times with metal bolts (though I like-and haven't used-your tip of turning the nut back and forth a number of times over the final thread).  I also run a file around the rim of the bolt at the threaded end, to give it a bit of a champher to ease starting the bolt.  I just haven't yet tried these technique with nylon bolts.  I'll let you know if nylon turns out to be any different.

Dan

[Dancrosswis]

probably, but with the size of hard points varying from a 24" bollard to a 3" cleat, I would imagine that different size loops (and sticks) might be in order depending on the usual boating area and "the norm" one runs into.   On a small dock cleat, possibly a loop that is temporarily held open, but tightens most the way so that it tends to stay on and not slip off the cleat?

What's your range of beta trials and/or actual use, Dan?

Great comments.  Here's what our experience has shown.

Loop Size.  Yes, the loop size can adjusted to fit the size of what you're trying to snag.  If you're good at making bowlines, resizing the loop is fast and easy and is done with the stick on the line.  Just undo the bowline, resize the loop, remake the bowline, and snug the stick back up against the bowline.  Note that the Docking Stick website has a good instructional video showing how to rig the stick.  That said, I've never had to resize my loop.  And, that's simply because I make a loop that's large enough that the stick never gets close to what I'm catching.  I'm not at the boat to give real dimensions, but I suspect the line length in my loop is about 4 feet.  So, the stick is well away from the cleat it's hanging from.  Again, the website instructional video gives good examples of how this works. 

Line Length.  This will vary based upon the docking situation.  We used the stick most often this summer when entering a transient slip with no (or suspect) dock help.  When setting up, I take the loop end of the line back near the aft quarter of the boat.  The Admiral ties off the line at our midship cleat, so we have the line preset to just short of the the distance from the midship cleat to the transom.  I then pass the loop forward to the Admiral.  She will drop the stick over the first cleat or post we pass at the end of the dock.  I continue moving the boat forward and use the spring line (under idle power) to hold the boat against the dock while we set up the rest of our lines.  Provided we're coming into a 35'-or longer-slip, this gets us docked without running out of slip room.  We also used the stick to get a line to a cleat on a dock with 20+ kts blowing off the dock.  As we know, this is the situation where a jump ashore is fraught with danger.  We had the dock room to set a longer line from the midship cleat.  I came in at about 45° and as I straightened out, the Admiral caught a cleat with barely a lean and we then sprung forward and into the dock.  And, I can fully envision backing up to a narrow dock space to drop a spring line over a cleat, falling off with the wind to get parallel with the dock, adjusting the spring line to the dock space, and then springing forward and into the dock.  I can't wait to try this.  I'm sure we'll amaze all onlookers.

Stick Lengths.  I modeled my stick on the commercial version.  With my experience so far, I doubt I'll need a different size.  If you're regularly grabbing a large post or big buoy, a longer length may help.

Finishing Up the Tie-Off.  The stick and line are as secure as your bowline.  I'd certainly not hesitate to keep the line ashore in moderate conditions.  And, you can always use a water bowline or double bowline for additional security.  That said, it's our practice to tie off our dock lines with their bitter ends onshore, so we remove the stick and line during that process.

Hope this helps,

Dan

[Dancrosswis]

Can you make Stu a bull rail stick?  LOL

-ken

I think I found the solution.  Bat ears are extra.

Dan

[Stu Jackson]

I think I found the solution.  Bat ears are extra.

Thanks, Dan, I already have one.  It's more nautical looking, being galvanized and all...

[Ron Hill]

Guys : In the Chesapeake Bay magazine and Practical Sailor (a few years back) they advertised a small clip that you could Velcro on to any boat hook. 
It held the "loop" open so it could be placed over a piling or on to a dock cleat.  I believe it was only $10 or $12.  Bought a couple and they worked great.

A thought

[Jim Hardesty]

Another idea is in the excellent "Good Old Boat" magazine Sep/Oct issue 2016 pg 65.  It's a bowline loop and a twist hitch on the end of a boat hook.  Do need to keep a little tension on the line to keep the twist hitch tight.
Jim