Additional (Second) Shore Power Inlet

[Fred Koehlmann]

Our 2002 MkII has the 30 Amp shore power inlet/socket at the transom, as I suspect all MkIIs have. I currently need two cables (one long & one shorter) to reach the shore power outlet on the main dock. What I don't like is that the connection between the two cables is not what I would call "safe" since it can be under stress, potentially disconnect, and could get water in between. Also the cable sits on the full length of the deck and the aging vinyl is leaving goo on the deck (from being UV affected).

I know I could reverse in to the slip, but we have a diagonal dock box, which makes this a pain and we like our privacy at the dock so having our cockpit away from all the traffic on the main dock suits us just fine.

I would like to place a second inlet inside the forward anchor locker, and then just use the short cord to reach the shower power outlet on the dock. Has anyone done this project? I have searched the site and haven't found anything to this point.

The way I see it the project would require the actual inlet, a 30 Amp breaker just inside of the entry point, and a second 30 Amp galvanic isolator (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/galvanic_isolator). At the panel, I would need to have a three way switch (much like the OFF/SHORE/GENERATOR switches the Blue Seas sells (https://www.bluesea.com/products/8359/AC_Rotary_Switch_Panel_30_Ampere_2_positions_%2B_OFF_2_Pole) so that I can switch between forward or aft inlets. At first I thought I could just "cut out" the existing breaker  in the panel and incorporate the new one by screwing it into the panel in the resultant opening, but now I'm think to just install the switch beside the panel and have the output leads feed into the existing panel where the power now terminates. Technically I would have duplicate power and reverse polarity lights/testers (not sure if this is an issue).

I'd appreciate any input from those more electrically inclined than I am.

Thanks, Fred.

[Lance Jones]

I would SERIOUSLY rethink that location.
1. Anchor locker is damp anyway from rain intrusion.
2. When in high seas, any wave over the bow will get into the anchor locker. If it's saltwater, you know what that means.

Just my 2 cents.

[Noah]

What about just making up a longer cord to run full length, so you don't have to connect two cords together? And, if you don't already have a Smart Plug/outlet this would be a good time to do it.

[Fred Koehlmann]

We're on the Great Lakes, so salt water is not an issue.

I've heard people suggest that they wouldn't put it in the anchor locker, but in all truth it gets less rain and less water splashed on it than our transom. Sure the light doesn't shine there and the air may be damp, but I don't see that as much of an issue. We're not plugging while sailing, and at the dock, its sitting for at least a week at a time. I find that my rode is sometime just to dry and stiff when I'm trying to pay it out.

A longer cord only solves one issue. You still have the cord getting gummy and soft and leaving goo on the deck.

Yes, my plan as to switch the old transom inlet and make the new bow inlet Smart Plugs.

[Jim Hardesty]

I've thought about the adding the same power inlet.  I'm not sure the Off/Shore/Generator switch is necessary.  I also use 2 lengths of power cord.  Where they connect I have screw on rings and a connector, same rings as go to the boat side of the cord.  I clean that connection and use dielectric grease.   
Please keep us posted if you do add the bow power inlet.
Jim

[Noah]

303 UV protectorant on the cord will help. And, if it is really bad, first use some "Brush Cleaner" solvent, then 303.

[KWKloeber]

Fred,

There is a Marinco connector to use between two cords that uses the screw rings for a 'positive' connection and is also 'weather tight.'

I am going to putr an anchor locker inlet on my 30.  The CS-36 is set up that way also.  I will use a SmartPlug for ease of the connection and 'just because.' 

ABYC - wants another main disconnect breaker within 10-feet of the inlet, and a "break then make" switch (like you pictured) or a bar-slide interlock circuit breaker that allows only one 2-pole side to be "on" at a time.  The basic guts of that switch is available separately in a much smaller footprint and custom labels are available from the mfgr (not BlueSea.)  I got, I think was 1 /  Off / 2 , or something similar.  Fwd / Off / Aft isn't a factory option.  Maybe Shore 1 / Off / Shore 2 is an option -- there's a hundred I recall.  Also, if you are doing new wiring I would add an ELCI breaker as the new main disconnect.

The problem with most this is there are no really nice Blue Sea enclosures -- they are huge.  I am going to make one out of a watertight PVC junction box (Lowes, HD, etc.) -- I believe the BlueSea ELCI panel will fit onto the cover of the 4 x 4 box.

Another option is a heavy duty contractors's 100-foot 10 gauge cord, and put on smart plug and twist lock connectors -- I recently did this for a friend who uses it only for the Erie-Dover, Mayor's cup, etc. when away from the his slip.  There's REALLY NICE contractor grade weathertight 2-prong plug/receptacle cord ends that make a nice extension when needed.

-ken

[mainesail]

Smart Plug will make longer custom cables upon request, at least they have in the past.. Generally much less expensive than adding a second AC inlet, and doing so correctly....

[tonywright]

The PO of my boat sourced small vinyl straps that attached to the lifelines. The power cord was suspended from those to keep it off the deck for the reason you mention. These would be an option for you if you decide to follow Mainesail's suggestion.

BTW are you sure you need 30 amps? We don't have a 30 amp supply at our club, so have never tried to use it. Being careful what I switch on simultaneously means I have never needed more than 15 amps. But then I don't use the boat at the dock for sleeping etc, so don't need to turn on the HWT heater, microwave etc. all at the same time. Using a long 15 amp cord, plus an adapter, is so much cheaper and lighter.

Tony

[KWKloeber]

Option -- if this a semi-perm installation (isn't a travel cord) and your dock setup accommodates this, connect the two cords with a waterproof pvc junction box and 2 watertight connectors into the box.  The box could be tied to the dock or whatever if there's a location to do that.  A box like this, (bottom of page) but w/ watertight gasketed/rubber compression connectors. 
http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical

Or make a connector using a hose barb that just fits the cord OD and mil spec adhesive heat shrink tubing to seal the cord to the barb.  Put a cord clamp inside so there's no strain on the connector and AHST.

-kk