Do I have an exhaust water leak?

[britinusa]

Had a good day on the boat today working on both this project (Riser replacement) and Replacing the Engine Electrical Harness.

Confirmed that I need to move the Muffler 1.5" outboard in order to fit the new Riser.
Disconnected the muffler from it's plywood base, measured for new base.
FYI, once the 4 screws were removed, the muffler did not want to come off the supporting base. A very small amount of leverage with a large screwdriver popped it off the base easily.

I'm going to make a new base to fit over the top of the old one, This will not only allow me to move the Muffler 1.5" outboard but it will raise it up 5/8" so clear the hoses in that area.
The base measured 12 3/8" by 13 1/8" and is 5/8" thick.
The new base will be the same size but will be screwed onto the old base but mounted 1.5" towards the port side before mounting the muffler to the new base.

I was able to remove the old Exhaust Flange Studs using a pretty heavy duty pipe wrench, they came out relatively easy. I had been concerned that the coolant tank might get damaged while removing the studs, but there was not even the need to use a hammer, just a good bit of grunting.

Tomorrow I plan on installing the new muffler base, and the new studs, but the installation of the new Riser and Water hoses will wait till the new Electrical harness is installed.

So far this is going really well.

Paul

[britinusa]

Got the new Muffler base installed and the Muffler now lines up nicely with the slightly longer riser.

Installing the base was pretty easy, bit of a grunt to screw it to the old base and then the Muffler to the new base, but it worked out. Used my trusty HF Right angled screw driver.

Pics on my blog. http://www.sailingeximius.com

Paul

[britinusa]

Latest update.
This job has grown (normal) so here's the latest update and a question about prop shaft to gearbox alignment.

The Exhaust repair job expanded to include a complete engine electrical harness rebuild and new Engine Motor Mounts.

I had used a caliper to measure the height from the top of the engine mounting brackets to the engine support stringers. Then after redrilling the mount holes in the stringer (the new Vetus mounts holes are about 1/8" less between centers ) I lowered the engine on the new mounts and adjusted the support nuts to get the engine back on the earlier measurements.

Then, with the engine hoist unloaded, I put the 4 bolts into the propshaft to gearbox flange and put the nuts and spring washers on finger tight (barely)

Measured the gap between the shaft flange and gearbox flange and had between .007" and 009" gap. I think that if I tighten up the 4 bolts, that gap will go away.

Read a bunch of posts and wiki notes on engine alignment, but could not find anything definitive.

Does anyone have a good link to a step by step procedure for doing the alignment?

Paul

[Noah]

Sorry, I do not but sure others will have for you. Making sure the prop shaft is centered in the shaft tube exiting the boat--that would be my first step.

[britinusa]

Hopefully the Cutlass bearing change we had done last year is still in good shape.

Paul

[Noah]

What I was getting at was bring the engine to the shaft not the other way around...

[KWKloeber]

Hopefully the Cutlass bearing change we had done last year is still in good shape.

Paul

The new cutlass will assure that the prop end is centered, the log end needs to be centered also.
See also http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Aligning_the_Shaft

kk

[britinusa]

Thanks Ken, that link was just the ticket.

Pretty confident that I will be able to follow those instructions.

Basically - move the engine aft so that at least one of the prop shaft flange 1/4 positions touch the gearbox flange, then move the engine aft/front/up/down/port/stbd/clockwise/anticlockwise until the other 3 1/4 positions are less than 0.003"
Rotate the shaft 90 degrees and measure again, adjust to less than .003" and repeat for all 4 quadrants.
At that point, tighten the prop nuts & bolts, and tighten down on the top engine mount nuts.

FYI, I did clean off the crud from the 4 prop bolts so that I would not have to sweat it getting the nuts on.

For anyone else replacing the old style mounts with Vetus K75 models. The bolt holes on the new mounts may not quite line up with the old mount holes. Also, with the engine raised, it's easy to get to the 2 front mounting lag bolts, then just loosen the aft bolts on the front mounts and turn the mounts 108 degrees to make it easy to remove the aft bolt. Do the same for the Aft mounts. I did not have to go into the aft berth to access the mount bolts.

And... the Harbor Freight 1/4ton lever chain hoist worked great! I was able to manage the engine movements single handed.

More later.

Paul

[britinusa]

Had a successful day! The harness install is complete, so to the Riser, New Riser insulation jacket, Engine Mounts, Hook up to Water tank, new Raw Water Hoses, and engine crank case breather connect to the modified Air filter.

Today we started the engine! WooHoo! Vibration is substantially reduced (K75 Mounts) new Instruments worked great, really pleased.

Posted pics in my blog.

Special Thanks to Ken Kloeber (KK)

Paul

[Ron Hill]

Paul : Told you so - just like you have a new engine with no more vibration isn't it?! 
From the original mounts to the Vetus is like day and night!

Just make sure that you don't drip any oil (it will soften the rubber) on that right front engine mount when you change the oil filter. 
I wrote and article in the Mainsheet tech notes where I took a small plastic food container, drilled a 1/2" hole in the top and cut one side.  Then I could slide that container over that engine mount to protect it from and oil drips when I changed the oil filter.

a few thoughts

[britinusa]

Thanks Ron.

This afternoon we ran the engine at 2,000 RPM (according to the tach) for 15minutes in gear tied hard to the dock.
Engine temp rose to 145 (just below 150 on the instrument) and stayed there.

Then we took the boat out for a 20 min drive down to the first bridge and back.

Most significant was the reduction in vibration of the cabin steps.

I had never viewed the shaft when the engine was running, so I don't know if the run out is acceptable. I'm going to get/order a dial test indicator tomorrow and check the shaft.

Now that the new hump hose is installed, the vibration between the riser and the aqua lift is obvious, so no wonder the previous cracks in the muffler.

In the cockpit, the vibration is .... wow! what vibration! compared to the previous experience.

So really pleased so far and planning on actually taking the boat out next weekend for an overnight.

In anticipation of being able to get the dial test indicator tomorrow, any idea of a maximum acceptable run out value?

Paul