Mounting Garhauer outboard davit on stern

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Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Stu, the only draw back was that davits are connected together with a bar across the top to prevent the whole shebang from shifting from side to side which the lifts didn't have but I was able to solve this problem by simply tying the fore and aft ends of the dinghy to the mooring cleats on the aft of the boat. My dinghy was a 10.2 ft. WM/Zodiac and it worked very well. After lowering the Dinghy, I could then use a single lift to lower the 6 hp motor onto the dinghy but I never left the motor on the dinghy while on the davits.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

DarthOccam

Quote from: Andrew Harvey on June 02, 2015, 07:33:24 AM
Stu and Mike,

There are 2 sizes of arm length from Garhauer. Which do you have ?

Andrew

Andrew:  I have the longer size, at 34".  The mkII boats have the swim step, so a longer arm comes in handy.

Hwd:  I found a few other references useful.  The first was the 2009 Tech Note write-up that Ron did that shows how to modify the Garhauer lift so that it's easier to use by one person.  Following his example, I moved the cam cleat from the top of the lift to the middle of the upper lift tube, and put a homemade fairlead on the top where the cleat was so the line would run cleanly to the cleat.  I also replaced the nut on the lift brace yoke with a wingnut to make it easier to unfold/fold for storage in the locker.  (The picture in my post above was pre-modification.)

The second reference was Mainesail's excellent write-up on countersinking holes and bedding hardware:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Regards,

Michael




Michael DeCamp
Serenity, #1703
Channel Islands Harbor, CA

Stu Jackson

I, too, read Ron's excellent writeup.  I chose not to make the mod.  Instead, I simply rove the line down before the cam cleat when singlehanding and using the lift to drop the engine into the dinghy.  I used the stern cleat on the boat to belay the line.  I find the cam cleat at the top to be very useful when hauling the engine up, single or with help - no bending required.  Also, less work!  :D

Your boat, your lift, your choice.  :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

dfloeter

Dredging up an old discussion.

I just finished the Garhauer Lift on our 1996 Mark 2 and with 9.9 4 stroke up there the whole situation leaves a bit concerned.  The aft pulpit, with 85# mounted high, moves a lot.  I seem to recall someone in my position adding another short stanchion base for stability. It seems to me the geometry calls for a diagonal member for max strength. My best thought, so far, is to run a piece of 1" tubing down to the sloping transom, thru bolted there and fastened to the rail with a stainless clamp.  Maybe use Bimini fittings so the piece is removable when not needed?

Right now, and trying to not get overly dramatic, the image of dropping off a 6' Steep sided Lake Michigan wave has me fearing for my pushpit.

I am open to any ideas on this situation. 
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20