Introduction: Looking at C34MkII this afternoon

[Breakin Away]

Hi all, I am current owner of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK. We are driving down to see a nicely equipped C34MkII this afternoon. We've discussed when and how to upsize for 6 years, and it sounds like my wife is ready to let me pull the trigger on this if it's in nice condition.

I'm open to suggestions on what to look for this afternoon.

[Stu Jackson]

I'm open to suggestions on what to look for this afternoon.

Start with the Critical Upgrades sticky topic, although most of it is for Mark I series boats.

Then take a look in the C34 Tech wiki, link at the top of this page.

Then do a search on "Catalina 34" on this forum.  Reason is that many folks have asked the same question and the titles are usually things like: "What Catalina 34 should I buy?" or "What are the differences between a Catalina 36 and a Catalina 34?"  So the search will bring these posts up as titles of topics.  We rarely see "Catalina 34" in much of the texts, for obvious reasons:  it's a C34 forum! 

Good luck.

[Ron Hill]

Second W : As Stu said you can breeze thru the Critical updates, but I can't right off think of any that are critical (there are some comments) for a MKII. 

The only M35BC engine problem that I can think of is a sleeve for the raw water pump on the early engines. Look at the Westerbeke engine bulletins

You'll just have to wait for a C34 MKII owner to add comment/s on your post.

[Breakin Away]

Just a quick reply back:

This 2001 vintage boat appeared to be in generally good shape, but not as pristine as I would have kept her. Apparently she has been on the market for over a year, but according to the broker there were no lookers because she was overpriced. She says that a recent price reduction has brought some lookers but no offers yet.

The owners (who have not registered their HIN here) apparently moved away a year ago and have had the boat on the hard ever since. Owners cannot use her in their new location due to very shallow water, but she says that they will move the boat closer to home to market her if not sold by July 1. It sounds like they may be motivated to sell. It looks like they did some upgrades and replacements a couple years ago, but I believe the boat does not show as well as it should because that's what happens when you're out of town and ignore the boat for a year. It does have a custom canvas cover which may have helped things in storage a little. But I'm told the cover is only a couple years old, so she may not have been fully covered earlier in its life.

There were two significant cosmetic issues: 1) The dodger and bimini were not serviceable - severely yellowed Eisenglass that was cracked in places with many zippers that had become unstitched, and 2) a lot of crazing on all the acrylic hatches - both the horizontal ones and the opening side ports. The broker said that there is a guy up the road who replaces Eisenglass and restitches at very low cost with only a couple hours wait. My response will be, "OK, since it's so easy, please have that done before the surveyor comes." Dodger/bimini/connector are very important to my wife and me, because baking in the sun spoils the fun of sailing, and the dodger buys an extra month or so at each end of the season. Regarding the crazing on the hatches, while I wish it had not happened, I assume it's normal for a boat this age, and I've seen some websites showing how to polish it out. I'm not going to ask seller to do anything about that, instead it will go on my own list (unless you guys suggest otherwise).

As you can tell, I'm leaning toward making an offer on this boat, just trying to pull together Soldboats data to help decide how much to offer as a starting point. I believe that the boat does not show as well as it could, so I think I can get a pretty good price on her. If not, I'll use my current boat this summer and wait until end of season to get serious (which was my original plan anyway). Owners did just have the boat "detailed," which appeared to be a pretty superficial cleanup which missed a lot of things. But the hull is nice and shiny, and the bottom well prepped for a coat of bottom paint.

By the way, we have talked ourselves out of naming the boat "Second Wind" (too many other boats by the same name). I'll be looking to change my user ID at some point in the future.

[Jim Hardesty]

I have a 2001 year.  What you are describing sounds pretty normal.  The boats are 15 years old.  My eisenglass has been replaced at least once.  And it's time to do a total replacement of the dodger and bimmni.  The electronics are 15 years old also.  Working but out of date.  I think the only "Critical Upgrades" that 2001 model need checked for is the water pump sleeve and a motor mount problem with cracking at the bend.  My hull is 1570 and both problems were taken care of before mine was produced.  I have not had any problem that I would not put under the heading of routine maintenance.   I am very happy with my 2001 MKll.  I couldn't ask for a more comfortable cruiser in 34 feet.
Jim 

[SPembleton]

Did you check out the Critical Upgrades section of this site?  The alternator bracket, wiring harness and traveler through bolt upgrades are critical, but also provide you with an insight to how well the owner has been maintaining their boat.  When i bought my boat three years ago, 2 of the 3 were done, and it was a key to other issues.

[bayates]

The Hakuna Matata is a 2000 MK II and we love it. We have had it 4 years and done some upgrades. Bimini and dodger are not a big deal. Check the engine and heat exchanger / riser area. If it is just you and your wife it is perfect size.

This site is perfect to help with any issues. It is a boat and 15 years old do there will be some.

Brian

[Breakin Away]

Thanks for all the advice. Please keep it coming. I should have mentioned already, the boat is hull #1535.

I will check the critical upgrades again once I have some time to sit down (there are other things I need to do today). The first time I tried to go through it last week, it seemed like rough going because there were a lot of things that were not specific to later model boats. IIRC, there were also some things that were more maintenance than upgrades. Is there a quick way to filter down to the items for later hull numbers? Or, if you want to spoon feed me, post links of the appropriate posts.

One of my biggest concerns is just that the boat has sat unused for two winters and a full sailing season. Things dry out and leave residue, rubber part get hard and crack, etc. Are there some generic things that I can expect to happen? A good surveyor should be able to pick these things up, but this group's knowledge is more specific.

I assume that a new raw water impeller is a given. Is there a list here showing part number for routine things like this.

Broker has given me a list of recommended surveyors, but I've been warned about using the broker's recommendation. So a surveyor recommendation for the Annapolis, MD area would be very helpful.

I may delay an offer until going to see the boat a second time (with critical upgrade list in hand). Due to work schedule, that would be next Friday or Saturday. Not sure yet.

[Stu Jackson]

Did you check out the Critical Upgrades section of this site?  The alternator bracket, wiring harness and traveler through bolt upgrades are critical, but also provide you with an insight to how well the owner has been maintaining their boat.  When i bought my boat three years ago, 2 of the 3 were done, and it was a key to other issues.

It's a Mark II, so alternator bracket and traveler are NOT issues.  Harness?  Always. But Mark IIs all had voltmeters.

[Stu Jackson]

There were two significant cosmetic issues: 1) The dodger and bimini were not serviceable - severely yellowed Eisenglass that was cracked in places with many zippers that had become unstitched, and 2) a lot of crazing on all the acrylic hatches - both the horizontal ones and the opening side ports. The broker said that there is a guy up the road who replaces Eisenglass and restitches at very low cost with only a couple hours wait. My response will be, "OK, since it's so easy, please have that done before the surveyor comes." >>>>>>>>>>>Regarding the crazing on the hatches, while I wish it had not happened, I assume it's normal for a boat this age, and I've seen some websites showing how to polish it out. I'm not going to ask seller to do anything about that, instead it will go on my own list (unless you guys suggest otherwise).

Dodger glass:  you might try that, but it's rare.  Not before survey.  Use it to negotiate the price after you've decided.  Find out the value of having it done right, not by the cheapest guy around.

Hatches are normal as Jim mentioned.  You could get pricing for this too.  Select Plastics does it all the time, lens replacement for the big hatches.  The Lewmar opening portlights are a different matter, but SP might do these, too.

[Stu Jackson]

I will check the critical upgrades again once I have some time to sit down (there are other things I need to do today). The first time I tried to go through it last week, it seemed like rough going because there were a lot of things that were not specific to later model boats. IIRC, there were also some things that were more maintenance than upgrades. Is there a quick way to filter down to the items for later hull numbers? Or, if you want to spoon feed me, post links of the appropriate posts.

There are only four pages.  Print them out and then read them at your leisure.  Cross off the ones for only Mark I boats, which are most of them.  IIRC, hard starting because of the circuit with the glow plugs is one.  Not too sure of any others.   Shows what a great boat it is. 

I assume that a new raw water impeller is a given. Is there a list here showing part number for routine things like this.

In the wiki.  This is routine maintenance, don't sweat it now.

[Breakin Away]

Quick question for any of you in the Chesapeake Bay area:

What's a rough cost (materials and labor) for a boatyard to paint a C34MkII? The boat I'm considering has had most of the bottom paint removed, and definitely needs it. Owner says he will take the boat to Maine if it does not sell by his deadline, so he will need bottom paint anyway. I plan to ask him to have the yard do it before survey/sea trial since then we would not have to re-haul it to do it afterwards. Just in case it become a negotiation, I'd like a rough idea of the cost.

On my C250 I've always painted my own bottom, so only incurred cost was a gallon of paint. I have no idea how this would translate to a pro job with a C34. I assume it's about two gallons of paint, but don't really know labor rates.

[Mark Sutherland]

I had all my dodger glass replaced with strato glass about 2 years ago for $700.  The work was very high quality.

[Breakin Away]

I had all my dodger glass replaced with strato glass about 2 years ago for $700.  The work was very high quality.

Thank you for that helpful and timely information. It really helps me with adjusting my offer for potential "as is/where is" acceptance proposal.

That's the same reason I'm looking for a ballpark estimate for a bottom job.

[Stu Jackson]

Quick question for any of you in the Chesapeake Bay area:

What's a rough cost (materials and labor) for a boatyard to paint a C34MkII?

I budget $1600 for one coat, $2100 for two coats of bottom paint.  Includes haul, splash, environmental fees, parts & labor.  In Northern California.