New Traveler - WOW!

[Noah]

Yeah you will need that too but here is what it is called and price. Dodger Conversion Block
https://www.garhauerstore.com/travelers/miscellaneous/dodger-conversion-block-dcb-1.html

[Steve_in_lex]

A couple of comments on this thread... 

- Last year I replaced the clutch for our traveler with Spinlock cam cleats (fixed, not rotating, due to their location forward). I love 'em: really easy to free and set the traveler.  See the attached close-up.  (Also, we have different colored rope for the sheet and traveler, making it easier to give directions to novices onboard.)

- With a prior boat we had a Mack Pack for furling the main, and it worked well.  I haven't used Doyle's so can't compare the two, but the Mack Pack had all the features mentioned in Paul's earlier note.  The continuous line can help with unzipping, but the zipper usually needs to be guided by hand when zipping it up.

[KWKloeber]

https://www.garhauerstore.com/travelers/miscellaneous/dodger-conversion-block-dcb-1.html

BTW be aware that garhauerstore is not garhauer marine, it's a dealer.

kk

[Noah]

Yes, good point. I just gave that link as visual., as they have a "slightly" better website than Garhauer. I always buy direct from the factory. That is who he should call about returning the stack for one with the dodger config in place.

[Dancrosswis]

Reminds me to remind all:

TRAVELER TRACKS should be rebedded as part of normal ROUTINE maintenance, like chainplates.

When I replaced our dorade vents over ten years ago, I wrote a Tech Note about it (August 2005).  Part of the work was prompted by a leak below the port dorade.  After replacing them both, the leak persisted.  Rebedding the traveler track fixed it. 

Yeah!  I've been looking for that same leak source.  Hadn't thought of the traveler track.  Thanks, Stu.

Dan Cross
Ennui Went
1986 C34 #159

[Sailing48N]

Any tips on bedding the traveler?

I'll be removing my original Nicro "X-track" traveler and replacing with a used Garhauer system this weekend. I'll be using butyl tape but am wondering how to go about sealing the large screws that mount into the glassed-in backing plate that require turning the screws from the topside.

I've been reviewing Main Sail's rebedding deck hardware article on his site. It makes total sense to tighten from below deck but what do you do when that's not an option?

Oh, and I'm also putting in the through bolts as listed in critical upgrades section while I'm at it. Those two bolts won't need to turn from the top as they will be tighten from below deck.

[KWKloeber]

Russ

I'm not familiar with what you are specifically doing, but not only thru-fasteners, but "into-fasteners" should (ideally) also be epoxy sealed.  Many owners don't if it's into solid core, but water will eventually attack polyester (think "blisters.") 

Careful threading into both fiberglass and epoxy.  Right-size the pilot holes, as stainless will snap clean off under too much stress.  It ain't like threading into wood fibers that collapse and give as threads are cut,

For into-fasteners, I simply countersink after epoxying, and apply butyl SPARINGLY around the countersink.  Same basic procedure as through fasteners. 

ken

[Sailing48N]

Russ

I'm not familiar with what you are specifically doing....

Our traveler tracks are bolted to the cabin top from the top of the traveler track with large screws into steel plates embedded into the vertical supports on the cabin-top. I plan on using the same screws to re-attach the new traveler track as well as add long bolts that go all the way through. Sealing the bottom of the track with the cabin-top is straightforward enough as is sealing the screw heads that go all the way through.

I'm wondering what others are doing to seal screw heads at the top of the traveler track that can only be tightened from above and thus require turning the screw head. It seems like it's pretty important to NOT turn the screw head to get the best results. Will I not get a good seal at those screw head locations? Is it not that big of a deal?





I think I just found my answer... had to read Main Sails article with a little more attention to detail... Plus, his new site has a few more tidbits of info on this particular article.

Apply Backing Plates & Tighten

Step 7 – Install the backing plates, in this case I just used fender washers, and begin to tighten the fitting.

Please use suitable backing plates. These fender washers would not be the best choice in a stanchion or deck cleat as they are far to thin and a little on the small side, diameter wise, for a cored deck.

You will be best to have two people or a good way to keep the bolt from moving. Ideally you do not want the machine screw or bolt to spin, but if you absolutely have to, you can slightly soften the butyl with a q-tip and some mineral spirits and go for it. If the bolt does spin slightly, with butyl, this is not the end of the world and you will still likely get a water tight seal. If you can minimize both twisting that is great if not do your best to minimize it.

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

The "will still likely get a water tight seal" is what worries me a little.

[crieders]

 I upgraded to the Garhaur traveler many years ago with the ball bearing movement. I need to replace the line now and I wonder  is it 7/16 or half-inch and how many feet on each side?

[KWKloeber]

Russ

I'm not familiar with what you are specifically doing....

Our traveler tracks are bolted to the cabin top from the top of the traveler track with large screws into steel plates embedded into the vertical supports on the cabin-top.
The "will still likely get a water tight seal" is what worries me a little.

Are you talking screws or bolts or machine screws into the plates?  I'm confused. How do you screw screws into steel plates?  I took it that it went into fiberglass.

Are what you are using, countersunk (flat) heads?  Roundheads?  What's atop the riser/support (what is sealing against the fiberglass?)  Not the screw head itself.  A plate?  A track?

[Noah]

5/16 and length depends on your lead. Measure your old one.

[Noah]

KEN-read this:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9460.0.html

[crieders]

 I thought I posted this but I don't see it. How much line is required and what size diameter  is the proper diameter. I purchased my Garhauer  upgrade when they first came out with a ball bearing unit and the line is ready for the  garbage can    Also, is any particular line more slippery than another?

[Noah]

5/16 and length depends on how you lead to cleat, etc. measure yourbold line. Some folks think line with more stretch is better (such as climbing rope), as it works a a shock absorber in accidental gybe. Never tested it? I just use Sampson braid.

[KWKloeber]

KEN-read this:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9460.0.html

Wrong.
Spend my time to research what someone else is attempting to explain (with somewhat less than complete info as to what is sealing against what) to answer a question?  I don't think so.
If you know, fill in the blanks, s'il vous plait.

k