crossbeam repair

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boblin

The crossbeam aft of the bilge pump area has a vertical crack on the port side. I looks like it has been repaired before.  Surveyer says common problem with tall rig- fin keel boats? Thinking about installing through bolted SS plates (1/8x3x18) on each side filling any voids w/ epoxy rather then piling on more fibre glass.
Any ideas on this?


Bob

KWKloeber

Quote from: boblin on March 31, 2016, 08:01:56 AM
The crossbeam aft of the bilge pump area has a vertical crack on the port side. I looks like it has been repaired before.  Surveyer says common problem with tall rig- fin keel boats. Thinking about installing through bolted SS plates  on each side filling any voids w/ epoxy rather then piling on more fibre glass.
Any ideas on this?


Bob

Sounds reasonable and what I'd choose (not having eyes on it.)  If by voids, you mean the crack, you'll need to get in there and establish clean faces for the epoxy filler to do any good (other than just 'fill it.')  Otherwise 5200 would do as well to simply keep water out of there.

Might talk to Gerry D about it?

kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Jim Hardesty

Bob,  Does the crack extend into the fiberglass?  When I first looked at "Shamrock" (before purchase)  noticed a crack below the mast compression post.  Sounds similar to your crack.  After asking Catalina I chose to dismiss it.  When I opened the crack up, it was just in the thick gelcoat? or what Catalina uses to coat the inside of the hull.  The crack was only cosmetic.  I just filled with thicken epoxy.  That was 6 seasons ago, still good.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

boblin

Thanks guys.  From what I can see the crack is through the fiber glass. I will ck further when weather permits and post some photos.

Thanks again

Bob

Noah

Interested in your surveyor's comment that "it is a common problem with tall rig, fin keel C34 boats." Has anyone on the Forum ever heard of this being a common problem and are there any postings on this?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

patrice

Hi Bob,

When you have a chance to review your profile and add in your signature your boat's specs.

Always nice to know when we read people's thread.
tks

_____________
Patrice
1989 MKI #970
TR, WK, M25XP
   _/)  Free Spirit
~~~~~~

dfloeter

Searching for Bilge Crack I found this thread and it leads me to wonder how common is this issue?    My bilge has a crack on either side just aft of the mast step similar to these others.  My surveyor said to grind out the cracks, fill and tape over.   Then see what happens.   I am hoping this thick glass is just filler material of sorts (as surmised by others) and not structural but then if that is the case, why is it cracking?  I have a very minimal smile that has not increased in size over the last three years of our ownership.   The keel shows no sign of collision or a repair.   

One crack was in the origina survey and was written off as "have a qualified FG tech look at it" and the second showed up later, possibly last week after I torqued the keel bolts to 110 ft lbs.   Can't say for sure that the second crack was there before or not.  Time will tell. 
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

KWKloeber

let me say that when i did my keel joint repair, Gougeon Bros recommended I reinforce the whole bilge because catalinas are somewhat "soft" boats compared to still hulls like, say, an Island Packet.  The flexing is what Gb said needs to be controlled, and recommended lining the bilge with biaxial cloth, extended up and 12" under the sole on each side.  i did not even attempt that -- but did help to spread out any point loading by fabricating a s/s plate that spreads keel bolt loads across the entire bottom of the sump.

IIWMB I would grind out the crack and complete surrounding area down to good substrate, fill the crack with West G-flex, and reinforce over all with carbon tape/Mas epoxy resin, using West microfibers thickener.

kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

dfloeter

Using G-flex is a good idea and the soft comment from the Gougeon staff is interesting. A grind fill and patch is next.  Thanks
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

KWKloeber

But IIWMB  I wouldn't do that that alone.  I suspect that w/o the carbon if (when?) there's movement it will open up again.
Just my guess.


-ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

dfloeter

By patch I meant a few layers of cloth and will reinforce the area hoping to not repeat.    :D
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

KWKloeber

Quote from: dfloeter on December 12, 2016, 09:17:17 AM
By patch I meant a few layers of cloth and will reinforce the area hoping to not repeat.    :D

Again, IIWMB I would use biaxial carbon as my first choice, not fiberglass cloth for the 'patch' portion, i.e.,

grind the surrounding area down to substrate.
Grind out the crack (deeper) (if after grinding down you find the top layer is cosmetic, then don't bother grinding the crack deeper.)
fill crack w/ g-flex
grind crack flat.
patch w/ biaxial (best way) carbon or Kevlar tape or carbon twill, or unidirectional carbon tape or mat (apply unidirectional "across," not "along" the crack.)
sand flat or use peel-ply for a smooth surface.
clean up and paint w/ 2 coats Rustoleum white gloss alkyd enamel, light sand in between.

ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

dfloeter

Thanks Ken.  When the weather warms a bit here in Michigan I will get back to the repair.   I ground out the cracks yesteray and this does appear to be cosmetic but will still be dealt with so that perhasps it will nbot crack again.   
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20

KWKloeber

Sounds good.  Carbon is pretty expensive and I have never found it in small quantities -- I bought some last spring for a project and have leftovers if it would help you out.

Ken


Quote from: dfloeter on December 14, 2016, 07:09:18 AM
Thanks Ken.  When the weather warms a bit here in Michigan I will get back to the repair.   I ground out the cracks yesteray and this does appear to be cosmetic but will still be dealt with so that perhasps it will nbot crack again.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

dfloeter

We did some carbon rudder repair on the Schock 40 that I spend too much time racing and I can probably grab some scraps out of the shop.   But thanks.
Dietrich Floeter
Traverse City MI
1996 Catalina 34 TR WK #1317
Universal M35A
Rocna 20