Racor help please?

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

gwp

Wasn't thinking and after changing racor filter I failed to fill with fuel before starting and got air in fuel system. I opened bleed thumb screw and got engine running but it begins to stall every time I close it. I have run it for a good bit of time but it is still doing this. Also.....I've noticed that the racor clear bowl is bubbling (drawing in air apparently) when I open water release valve on bottom. I have never seen this happen before? Any help appreciated.

Clay Greene

Did you bleed the air from the top of the spin-on fuel filter? With the M25XP, you need to bleed air from two spots.

As to the Racor, are you sure the filter is seated properly? And did you change the gasket when you replaced the filter?
1989, Hull #873, "Serendipity," M25XP, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

KWKloeber

I have an M-25, with a bleed screw added.

1. I have NEVAH filled the bowl or new filter with diesel
2. I have NEVAH had an issue bleeding all the air -- unless the Racor gasket was seated incorrectly or there was an air leak elsewhere.

JTSO, the XP fuel bleed is stupidly arranged.  Easy to use, but stupid if you want to know what's going on (not even as smart as an idiot light on a dash.) 
With the discharge feeding back to the tank return, you nevah know what the fuel is that's being bled --- still foamy or dirty or..... 
I have my bleed screw so it is just open, and catch bled fuel in a plastic cup -- I can see what I am getting and when the bleed produces solid fuel (no foam or spurting) and also see the fuel quality.

kk
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

gwp

I did replace the gaskets and it spun on smoothly. I did not know of the air bleed on top if racor.  Guess that is the slotted nylon screw. And....what the heck is the pump for? I admit that I have never really understood the workings of this thing. Nevah......where do you catch fuel from? The return line? I have heard that some run with bleed screw open all the time. Don't really understand that either. I've got some studying to do. Thanks for patience

KWKloeber

#4
Quote from: gwp on March 13, 2016, 05:29:18 PM
Nevah......where do you catch fuel from? The return line?

NO, as I said I don't have my bleed knob outlet connected to the return line. 

The OEM M25 has a hex head bolt to bleed and it discharges to air -- not to a return line.  My added bleed knob replaces that bolt, and  when I bleed I catch fuel from the 'nib' on the outlet into a plastic cup.  The XP style is less of a "mess" (if you call stuffing the plastic cup with a paper towel and putting it in a baggie a mess) and is "easier".  But there's no feedback with the XP bleed, which JTSO, is stupid for the small "inconvenience" on mine,   It's a trade off.  YBYC

Ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Clay Greene

Sorry, to clarify, the first bleed valve on the M25XP is on the fuel filter that screws onto the engine (starboard side), not the Racor. There are detailed instructions for bleeding air out of the fuel lines in the M25XP in the Tech Wiki, I believe.
1989, Hull #873, "Serendipity," M25XP, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ken Juul

You should not see bubbles in the clear bowl.  Something isn't seated correctly.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Ron Hill

#8
GWP : Ken is correct, if you see bubbles on the bottom bowl then there is air coming in from somewhere.  The bubbles are a "dead give-away"

One of the two gaskets are not sealed.  You need to "wet" each gasket with some fuel of PS additive just like you wet the rubber gasket on a new oil filter with oil  --  before you screw it on!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

dbpaul


Hawk

Coincidentally just changed the primary and the Racor this weekend on my M35. Filled the filters with fuel and the Racor with the Power additive to clean injectors. 60 seconds with the fuel pump on using the ignition with slightly open bleed valve on the primary bracket on the engine. All well.

Hawk
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Roland Gendreau

Did you forget to open the fuel petcock between the Racor and the fuel tank?   
Roland Gendreau
1992 MK 1.5
Gratitude #1183
Bristol, RI

gwp

Sorry for long delay but .....just can't figure out what's going on. All was perfect before I replaced filters. Now engine runs for 10 minutes and dies. Can keep it running by opening bleed screw but when it is open there are very few small bubbles appearing in racor bowl. I have taken racor filter off and checked seal, but all looks fine. Blew in tank pick up tube and it is clear. Removed fuel line from engine and pump is pumping fine. Bout ready to call mechanic which is really gonna hack me off cause o know he's gonna find a very simple fix. Ideas appreciated. Thx

Ken Juul

your still leaking air at the racor.  Check the fittings and the cap over the hand pump are tight.  IIRC there may be a rubber o ring in the pump cap that sometimes cracks and leaks air.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Ron Hill

GYP : You are getting air from somewhere. 

Try disconnecting the IN fuel line to the Racor.  Then use your dink air pump on that IN barb and see if you can find where the air is coming out of the Racor assembly!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788