M25 motor mounts

[KWKloeber]

I was also thinking of using a bolt inserted head first with a flat washer and another bolt to give more strength but then I.d have to remove the mount.

Gonna hit HD & Lowes in the AM & see what they have.

Confuzed -- not about the box boxes... about two bolts?

A sunken bolt forming a stud will be very strong in epoxy/microfibers.  As I said below it's worked for C30 replacements.
So would a lead anchor.  Its deep ribs would provide very good grab.



lotsa options.

kk

[Noah]

If it were my boat, I would just mix-up a batch of West epoxy with milled fibers and let it cure. Then drill a new pilot hole and screw in a 2+ in. lag bolt. If your right angle drill won't get in close enough to drill pilot then get a cheap flexible drill chuck adapter or use your Dremel tool.

[Ekutney]

I was thinking the same thing about a washer to keep it plumb.  Will let you know what works & include pics but hard to see 'down the rabbit hole'.

I'd go with epoxy with filler but am concerned the pilot hole would not be straight.  There is not room with the engine in place.

The lead anchor makes good sense to be able to use the standard lag bolt. 

So much work for something that started out with a loose lag bolt.

[Ekutney]

Ken,

Flat washer against the head of the bolt with another bolt to hold it tight against the head, no welder available.

[KWKloeber]

I was thinking the same thing about a washer to keep it plumb.  Will let you know what works & include pics but hard to see 'down the rabbit hole'.

I'd go with epoxy with filler but am concerned the pilot hole would not be straight.  There is not room with the engine in place.

The lead anchor makes good sense to be able to use the standard lag bolt. 

So much work for something that started out with a loose lag bolt.

But think how rewarding the work is.......   

[KWKloeber]

Ken,

Flat washer against the head of the bolt with another bolt to hold it tight against the head, no welder available.

I'm still not following your 2 bolts. 

A nut tightened against a washer on a bolt?

Or a flat washer against the bottom of the coupling nut, with a short bolt to hold it in place?

kk

[Ekutney]

A nut tighten against a washer on a bolt

[KWKloeber]

A nut tighten against a washer on a bolt

ok, gotcha. 
If you used a coupling nut rather than a standard nut, it would give you more resistance to the stud rotating, and the washer would give you resistance to the stud lifting.  A wing nut (or a few) locked on there would also provide good rotating resistance.

kk

[KWKloeber]

A nut tighten against a washer on a bolt

ok, gotcha. 
If you used a coupling nut rather than a standard nut, it would give you more resistance to the stud rotating, and the washer would give you resistance to the stud lifting.  A wing nut (or a few) locked on there would also provide good rotating resistance.

kk

**** provided you lock the nuts tighty to the bolt - deform the thread with a centerpunch once it's tightened down.  Wax or tape up the exposed thread just in case some resin gets on it. 

Note 20 yrs from now the NO will be asking  'What the hell did the PO do here?'   

[Ekutney]

My motor mounts are now secure to the stringer.

The rear mounts are thru bolted with 3/8 16 X 2 1/2 in long bolts for the rear holes & 2 3/4 in long for the forward holes.

The forward mounts are secure using SS 3/8 hanger bolts, lag bolt thread at one end and 3/8 16 thread at the other.  I put 5200 in the holes first then used a jam nut setup to screw the bolts into the stringer.

[Ekutney]

A pic of the finished job.  All 8 now look like this, the rear mounts are thru bolted & the front mounts use the hanger bolts.  They are all secure with flat washers & lock washers with 3/8 16 nuts, the rear thru bolts for the rear have large flat washers.