Installing Manual Fresh Water Pump in Parallel with Electric Pump?

[Dancrosswis]

I'm not following why you have an unvalved cold water supply line tee'd over to the hot manifold?

It's not a T.  It's a Y valve.  For my heater bypass, I set the Y valve to by-pass the heater.  To prevent antifreeze from backing into the heater from the hot manifold, I then shot off the hot manifold valve on the line from the heater to the manifold.

Dan

[Dancrosswis]

Accumulator?

I haven't figured that out, yet.  Because the accumulator's function is to reduce cycling of the electric pump, am I right that I could plumb it in pretty much anywhere in the cold line(s) from the electric pump to the head faucet?  And, that will then be effective for both the cold and hot water lines?

Dan

[Stu Jackson]

Dan, here's where it needs to go:  http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Pressurized-Freshwater-Systems

[Dancrosswis]

Thanks Ken and Stu.  I did some more research on manufacturers' sites and they recommend installing the accumulator tank just down stream of the pump.  I may try to make up a tall thin tank that will fit behind the double sink.

Dan

[KWKloeber]

Dan

The tank has a bladder inside that you charge with air pressure -- which acts as a "spring" on the entire water system to reduce the cycling.  I got mine from
Lowe's, though it's larger than most "marine/RV" tanks.

Ken

[KWKloeber]

Though I think mine was 1 gal, not positive.  I tee'd it into the cold water pressurized line about 3-ft from the pump.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_424492-41278-HT2B___?productId=4095287