1987 MK 1 Electrical System Upgrade - Feedback Requested

[Jon W]

Hi Ed,
    I couldn't find an E-mail address so just sent you a message from the forum. If you send me an E-mail address I can send a copy of the Excel file I have with a much better graphic for the schematic and the wire ID numbers as well as voltage drop and preliminary wire lengths. I used Visio to create the schematic, not sure if you have the software.

Jon W.

[Jon W]

A couple photo's as I make my way through the project. Long way to go still.

First is an example of the battery cables I'm replacing.

Second the battery box with vents and in the upper background you can see the echo charger, shunt by the water tank.

Third is inside the battery box with the eggcrate to keep the batteries separated.

Jon W.

[Stu Jackson]

Hi Ed,
    I couldn't find an E-mail address so just sent you a message from the forum. If you send me an E-mail address I can send a copy of the Excel file I have with a much better graphic for the schematic and the wire ID numbers as well as voltage drop and preliminary wire lengths. I used Visio to create the schematic, not sure if you have the software.

Jon W.

Ed & Jon,

Why not exchange this info via the personal messages feature?  Use the My Messages tab on the top.

[Jon W]

I didn't see a way to add attachments. Jon W

[KWKloeber]

Jon if you email me the viso I'll send you a small size pdf to post.

Kk

[Stu Jackson]

I didn't see a way to add attachments. Jon W

Jon, the concept was to use the pm to exchange email addresses.  Don't post email addresses here on the forum.

[Ben H.]

Jon, Thanks for sharing all this information.

I have a question regarding the Positive Bus Bar in the battery box and the extra fuses in a few places for "always on" devices. From what I can see now you have 4 Fused devices coming right off the battery and 2 fused bilge pumps with inline fuses off the bus bar. The charger feeds through the bus bar too.

Might it be simpler to install a 6 or 12 port fuse block from blue sea like 5028 or 5029 and eliminate the positive bus bar and consolidate fuses into one place?

[Jon W]

The mfg preferred connection point for the Smartguage, positive sense from the external regulators is at the positive battery post.

I started out with a fuse block but changed my mind and went with the 5024 fuse kit. There is little room left in the battery box with the 4 6V golf cart batteries installed. I took the direction I did to give myself as much quick and easy access to the different fuses and connections as possible, and to have an "always on" busbar. This is also the reason I located the negative busbar and shunt for the battery monitor out of the battery box.

The "always on" busbar allows for future expansion. For example it will make adding power for a stereo/entertainment system pretty simple.  The charger feeds to the busbar to streamline the wiring, (at least in my mind).

Jon W.

[Jon W]

I thought the original Master Control Panel looked bad from the outside!!!

Jon W.

[britinusa]

What's up with that? I don't see any wire nuts or gooey electrical tape connectors.



Paul

[Jon W]

I didn't see any wire nuts or electrical tape behind the panel yet, but every battery connection (positive and negative) had electrical tape (with corrosion) instead of any type of heat shrink. Come to think of it I haven't found any connection on the boat with heat shrink at the terminal except the ones I'm doing.   Jon W.

[Stu Jackson]

I was almost tempted to say that's simply because they hadn't invented heat shrink when they built your boat (or mine!).   

The fact that most of the circuits still work is a testimony (however you want to take it) of the basic quality of the OEM installation.

Sure, we've all found "problems" in our systems.  The MAIN ones for me were the basic "backbone" and the incorrect use of the 1-2-B switch because of using the C post for charging as well as use.

Other than those, covered extensively in the "Electrical Systems 101" Topic and elsewhere here on this forum and the tech wiki, the electrical system was pretty good for it's time.

Absent complete neglect and/or water intrusion (another form of neglect), they were pretty good to begin with.  I bought our boat in 1998 and our PO hadn't done anything with the basic system.  We ripped out the yucky charger and put in an inverter/charger, but spent time over the years upgrading the engine charging system as we accumulated knowledge, pre-internet days, too.

What folks like Jon and Noah are doing for their boats is admirable, and follows in the footsteps of those of us who have come before.  Their attention to detail and understanding of the basics and details is really important to understand --- they "get it."   

[Noah]

Thx Stu. I looked a long time before I decided on a 1990 C34, with it's "good bones and good looks", and fortunately found one that was well taken care of at a fair price. Then, I did a lot of research on this site and others and have gotten lots of good advice, help, and inspriation. I have, and continue to, spend lots of enjoyable (albeit sometimes frustrating) time working on, sailing and learning aboard my boat. Yeah, I have undoubtably spent more money, time and effort upgrading, than I will ever conceivably get back. However, I am fortunate enough to afford it (for now). Besides, I'm thinking about sailing, not selling.  It's the doing, and doing it right, that I find rewarding.

I recall a story about Ted Turner years ago when he was having financial troubles and selling assests. A reporter asked him if he was broke. He responded, "When I start selling my boats, that's when you'll know I'm broke." 

A man (or woman) and their boat, is a hard bond to break.

[KWKloeber]

I was almost tempted to say that's simply because they hadn't invented heat shrink when they built your boat (or mine!).   

Stu, I woudn't be so quick to give 'em a pass.

HST was used (though not extensively) way before our boats were on the drawing board and early household wiring was tinned to protect it from being corroded (by the insulation, believe it or not -- tinning ceased when insulation materials improved.)  With no regulations and standards to protect buyers, and the pressure of cranking out that volume of boats in the 70s, I fully believe that every boat manufacturer cut corners where/when they could get away with it.  Some just could get away with more cutting than others.  And I believe that, when our wiring withstands the elements, it's despite of, not because of their techs.  I've come across more questionable electrical work on my boat than I've found "good" work -- at least to my standard.

kk

[Stu Jackson]

No one who knows me would ever think of me as an apologist for the basic electrical systems produced on our boats or those of our vintage by this builder.  Far from it.  A pass? Hardly.

Just askin', for comparison sake, if any other boat builder, ANY, was doing that in those days.  30 years ago.

While there has been some questionable wiring I've seen on my boat, those cases had to do with the main + & - #4 ga. lug ends on the mains.  We've been beating that dead horse for three decades on this forum and the tech notes.

The rest still works:  i.e., all the circuits from my electrical panel to the services.

All I am suggesting for new owners who read these kinds of threads:

1)  The C34 has a basically robust and well designed electrical system

2)  The basic electrical system regarding charging is antiquated because of the wire harness connections (trailer Gummy bears), the ammeter in the cockpit panel, and the alternator output going through the C post of the 1-2-B switch

3)  Corrections to these shortcomings have been documented well & repeatedly on this website so you shouldn't have to reinvent the wheel when you're considering enchancements