Gummy Bears & Cockpit Panel Fastening Ideas

Jon W · October 06, 2015, 08:35:29 PM

What a great idea. Never would have thought of using an earplug soaked in epoxy. For the machine screws do you use 5200 or something similar to bond the nut? Jon W.

KWKloeber · October 06, 2015, 08:43:24 PM

Quote from: Jon W on October 06, 2015, 08:35:29 PM
What a great idea. Never would have thought of using an earplug soaked in epoxy. For the machine screws do you use 5200 or something similar to bond the nut? Jon W.

Asketh about a problem, and ye shall receive. Sometimes a lot more (conflicting) ideas than you ever want to wade thru.

Locktite is fine to lock the thread if you need to use a thin (jam) nut, or just use a nylock nut of you have enough depth! Really no reason to hold affix the nut to the back of the substrate.

kk

Noah · October 07, 2015, 09:49:12 AM

Jon, I don't believe anyone's cockpit engine instrument tray has a back on it. A bit after the fact for you...but FYI--I replaced my panel face and wiring harness without removing the tray. Just unscrewed panel face plate.

Jon W · October 07, 2015, 02:03:04 PM

Hi Noah. I tried removing the panel only first, but had interferences with the shut-off cable post (tee handle removed), and the top of the tach hitting the tray. Reached through the aft lazarette to remove the nut on the back of the tray securing the shut-off cable to the tray. Couldn't get enough leverage or grip because the nut was both frozen and surrounded by caulk. Ultimately decided to remove the shutoff cable from the engine and pull the tray, panel, and shutoff cable out together (had leaks between the tray and coaming anyway). I mentioned the tray having no back because CD sells a fully enclosed replacement tray, and thought that might be the common set-up.

Jon W.

Noah · October 07, 2015, 04:24:41 PM

Maybe some model years of the C34s have panels with backs? Not my 1990. BTW-- CD doesn't mention the 34s model in their replacement tray part description. It may work however. I have found some discrepancy RE: parts descriptions in a few items on the CD site, such as shaft log/stuffing box hose sIzes, etc. so be careful and question them. And, yes it does take a little tight maneuvering to remove the cockpit panel faceplate with gauges and engine shut off in place. That's why I don't want to have to do it AGAIN anytime soon.

KWKloeber · October 07, 2015, 07:59:14 PM

Quote from: Noah on October 07, 2015, 04:24:41 PM
Maybe some model years of the C34s have panels with backs? Not my 1990. BTW-- CD doesn't mention the 34s model in their replacement tray part description.

Just FYI for anyone needing a remodel -- you can get the panel tray right from the CTY factory, made to precise dimensions (there were like 3 or 4 different trays on the C30) thereby avoiding CD's mark up and stretching your few boat bucks (not that I have anything against CD making money, but...

)

Also on the weather panel, if you do a full panel you can do a round finger hole and a pivoting teardrop shape in the same material to cover the hole. I just did one on a J-120 panel (no unfortunately don't have a pic.)

kk

KWKloeber · October 14, 2015, 09:21:39 PM

Quote from: Jon W on October 03, 2015, 08:56:38 PM
Also attached a photo of the fuel pump positive the goes to the control panel with it's original ring terminal. I posted this because the second day of doing the upgrade it literally fell off the crimp. Same thing happened with the blower motor positive. No tugging/pulling/rough handling. Just fell off. Jon W.

Jon with all the wiring you did recently and the fallen off terminals on the pump and blower, you will appreciate this one....

Sunday I went to work on a J/104 "for an hour" -- adding a couple receptacles -- all I intended to do was finish up one. After an hour of swearing I got the one line extended - off the galley receptacle. Saturday a helper had pulled the GFIC receptacle out because we were originally going to jumper off that box, but it was feeding 2 circuits, so I went elsewhere (too many wires in the box and on the GFI terminals.)

So I go to screw the GFI back in and see that the ground wires have a wad of electrical tape around them. Uh ohh. Do I run or do I dare unwrap it? Whenever I see a wad of tape I know there's something I don't want to see.

Under were the ground wires - 4 mind you - the feed from the panel, and to the two circuits, and one jumper to the receptacle. All bared and twisted together -- wrapped w/ tape. No terminal on the GFI screw, just twisted stranded wire. No crimp sleeve or butts, or step downs --- nothing on the others, just twisted and taped.

And THIS OEM WAS FROM THE FACTORY -- not a PO mod. So Universal and CTY or J/World -- I guess you end up with no better quality, no matter how much you pay for it?

Cheers,
Ken

Jon W · October 16, 2015, 06:55:22 PM

Hi Ken, Not an electrical, but a mechanical example. My slip neighbor has spent the last week plus fixing a Yanmar engine problem on his Tartan 37. Early 2000 vintage he purchased around 6-7 mopnths ago. He had to replace two fuel injectors ($$$) and a myriad of fittings ($$$) due to severe corrosion. Where did the corrosion come from? A failed anti siphon valve that ran above the engine inside the engine compartment. Apparently it had been leaking for years. He relocated it out of the engine compartment. I guess it isn't the brand, it's how you take care of it.
Jon W.