Shake down cruise - engine heated up

[britinusa]

After figuring out that the reason my engine temperature gauge reads low is because the engine is running cool due to an open thermostat, it was a surprise when the engine started to get hot during our shake down cruise.

Quick look over the side and no water pumping out! White smoke (steam) puffing out and disappearing quickly.

Shut off the engine.

Inspected the old raw water filter and it was pretty full of grass. Cleaned it out, ran the engine, no better.

Inspected the water pump impeller (recently replaced with the new water pump) - looked and felt fine.

Removed the hose off the raw water shut off valve, opened the valve, water barely trickled out. - Blocked through hull.

Confirmed problem by putting the raw water hose into a gallon jug of fresh water, ran the engine, it sucked it out in about a minute.

Poked a long plastic tie wrap down the open valve, but it would barely go down, and made no difference in the trickle.

Removed the hose from the shower sump shut off valve, opened the valve and water poured out - OK, got a source for the engine water.

10 mins work and had reworked the hose connections to move the engine hose to the shower sump shut off valve.

Ran the engine, pumping really well, temp stay normal (low) Life is good.

Later I reworked the shower sump hose to connect to the original engine raw water shut off valve and tested the shower sump pump, worked fine. I'll check the original raw water shut off valve and through hull at the next haul out, which will be sooner rather than later.


The Back story!
It's only because the great advice given on this forum and in the tech notes that I knew how to deal with this issue.

Kudos to all contributors.

The full story is on my blog http://www.sailingeximius.com

Paul

[Joe Holmes]

I had the same thing happen this summer. A tie wrap was unsuccessful for me also.  I was able to clear it with a Phillips screwdriver after removing the inlet filter body. I now keep the screwdriver taped to the inside of the access door. I was about to enter a passage with 4+ knots of current.

[Stu Jackson]

We've been successful clearing that by removing the inlet hose to the RW pump and using the dinghy foot pump.

[DaveM]

Somebody suggested here and I put "T" on all the critical intake thruhulls with a plug on the straight through leg.  Also keep small 2ft piece of dowel stored aboard.  Get in this situation, remove plug, ram with dowel, reinstall plug and continue on.  I have appreciated the idea.  Also easier to lubricate ball valve on top with Lanacote when boat is pulled.

Good Winds
DaveM

[britinusa]

I like that idea (T above shut off valves)

Plan is to rework all of the plumbing, and I think I'll implement that idea.

Paul

[KWKloeber]

"T" on all the critical intake thruhulls with a plug on the straight through leg. 

The dowel or anything (I have used a pc of stiff hose the right diameter and a pc of pvc pipe) is great, but how does one install a compliant tee? Bronze?  Remember that PVC (CTY is notorious for using PVC fittings) is not approved and should not be used below waterline.

Removing the hose to push a rod down isn't that huge a task, compared to maybe having a bad day with a non-compliant fitting that fails.

See one of MainSail's tests of pvc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOg7WoeyKIk


kk

[tgsail1]

Had the same thing happen. I carry a hard plastic fish tape on board which is very effective at unclogging all sort of intakes and drains. It was able to dislodge the kelp jammed in my intake past the strainer housing. Used it a few weeks ago to clear out a sink drain.

[sselinger]

I have had this happen and was able to quickly clear the material by using my air horn. The bell of the horn fit over the water strainer with the top removed and a few presses of the horn button blew out the material. Like the others a coat hanger did not clear the material.

[KWKloeber]

was able to quickly clear the material by using my air horn.

Wonder what the fish life thought of that?!   
FIRE IN THE HOLE! 

[Ron Hill]

Guys : That why I had a 3/8" wooden dowel taped to the engine compartment side under the head sink.

Then I caulked on a round bronze strainer to the hull side of the raw water intake and never had that  problem again - for the next 20 years!! 

A thought

[Noah]

Ron- I am confused. I assume these suggestions are two different "techniques" and that once you "cauked on the bronze strainer" you had to abandon your 3/8" dowel reaming? Also, I believe I read (perhaps on Mainesail's site?) that those outside/under hull strainers can cause some serious over heating issues as growth clogs them.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Noah~ I think Ron's idea was that he could knock the strainer off, just being caulked.

Mike

[britinusa]

was able to quickly clear the material by using my air horn.

Wonder what the fish life thought of that?!   
FIRE IN THE HOLE! 

One fish looked at another and asked 'Did you do that!'



Paul