Regular Maintenance Schedule

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britinusa

I have spent literally hours reading the great posts on the forum and teck wiki, and it's a bit overwhelming, I guess that's the side effect of 30 years of info.

I checked my main batteries on Sunday afternoon, no visible electrolyte in any of the 4 x 6v batteries, the single 12v Starter battery was fine.

This event lead me to start building my own Regular Maintenance schedule.

I'm thinking that the 'Before casting off', 'After engine shutdown', Daily, Weekly, Monthly 3 month, 6 month and Annual projects is the way to go.

But I'm wondering (again) if the forum/wiki has already got something. I've read through the Critical upgrades (and most of the many posts that start there).

This could turn into a huge thread, so I hope we can just point to existing notes on schedules for now. I'll type up a growing schedule and put it in the wiki as I make progress.

Thanks.

Paul

Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Stu Jackson

#1
Paul, I don't recall seeing anything that would match your idea of recommended intervals that has been posted in the wiki or here.

The reason is simple:  It's not that hard.

Starting point:

The Catalina 34 Manual.  Really.  It has EVERYTHING you asked for.  It may not be in the "format" that suits you, but it includes A to Z as you asked.

Next:  There's a good maintenance list here:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Maintenence_tips_from_a_new_owner  Literally a skipper in the same boat you're in!   :clap

Next:  Here's one I did some time ago.  Note: I rarely use it.  I shamelessly stole it from a C320 skipper and modified it.

*******************************************
AQUAVITE  Catalina 34 Sail & Hull # 224  1986  
VHF Whiskey Charlie Foxtrot 1537  Registration No.:  CF 1537 JG

BOARDING CHECKLIST
                     
Stow Main Hatch – aft cabin or V berth
Locker Locks – put in port coaming
DC House Loads On – 1-2-B switch on "1" (see below)
Check Battery Voltages, Amps & Amp Hours with Link 2000
Bilge Pump  Auto/Manual switch under galley sink, always back to auto
Seacocks Open: Galley out, Head in, Engine Raw Water in, Head Sink out
Set Holding Tank valves
Set Refrigerator ON
Check Weather on VHF WX or 2
Launch Dingy Before Using Diesel Heater
CNG Gas Valve - aft cabin settee
Open anchor locker – clip lock onto port pulpit
                         
ELECTRICAL     AC/DC Load Switches
                     
AC -- 30 amp Master  ON when ONLY on shorepower
AC Outlets -- will be on with AC master
Battery Charger -- via Link 2000 – OFF with shorepower off
Inverter -- via Link 2000 - OFF
Water Heater  (pushbutton) ON only when on shorepower
                     
DC Master (1-2-B)  1: HOUSE;  2 : START; do NOT use BOTH
                     
DC PANEL

Left side
Running Lights  
Anchor Light  rarely used – see oil lamps
Spreader (deck light)
Steaming Light – only when motoring at night
Cabin Lights  On after dark
Green DC power on light

Right Side
Refrigerator
Macerator Pump - on only when pumping overboard with small thru hull open
Instruments – DS, KM, WS (Autopilot separate switch under helmsman seat)
Water Pressure – fresh water galley and head sink
Stereo – power to stereo system, don't use stereo off, use this switch
Sump Pump – shower sump power, separate switch in head; also powers stereo powered subwoofer

                     
DEPARTURE CHECKLIST

Before Engine Start
                     
Check Engine hours for fuel level
Set Holding Tank valves
Check Engine (Oil & Coolant Levels)
Check Raw Water Strainer, Seacock Open
Check Fuel Filter Water Sump
All Gear Below Stowed for Sailing
Record Amp Hours from Link 2000 in log book
Hatches Closed & Secure for Seaway
Prepare Rig for Sailing
Shore Power Loads Off
Stow Shore Power Cable
Tend Dingy
VHF handheld at helm
Binoculars at helm
Autopilot (in nav station)
Flag (top shelf forward of subwoofer)
Seat cushions starboard and helm; leave port cushion below for access to port locker
Throwable cushions out
Charts and GPS Waypoints reviewed
                         
Engine Start                    
1-2-B on "1"
Regulator switch on 50% (under head sink) – aft is 50%
Instruments ON
Confirm raw water seacock open
Gearbox in Neutral
Throttle to 1/3rd  FWD of Idle
Key On (tan, bumps down) with Low Oil Pressure Alarm sounding
Glow Plug button On for 15 Seconds
Release glow plug button
Start (Push Button on Panel)
Check for water exhaust
Reduce throttle down to low idle before 45 second delay on tachometer
Set Idle @ 1100 RPM when tachometer starts
Check Low Oil Pressure Alarm Off
Confirm Instruments ON, check autopilot for power




Engine Stop
Throttle down to 1100 rpm
Gearbox in neutral
Pull Stop Handle Up, engine stops
Push stop handle down fully
CCW ignition key, remove key, hang on stop handle
Gearbox in reverse when sailing

STARBOARD SWITCH PANEL

Upper Left – saloon light (up is OFF)
Upper Right – galley light (up is OFF)
Lower Left – Galley sink assist pump (down is OFF)
Lower Right – Combiner ground leg shutoff

5 DAY CHECKLIST
                     
Check Steering Cables
Check Exhaust Hoses
Check Transmission Fluid Level
Check Battery Water Level
Check Engine Belt and Cooling Hoses
Check Bilge Pump Operation
Check Rigging Hardware
Check Running & Steaming Light Operation
                     
SEASONAL CHECKLIST
                     
Change Engine Oil - see engine log
Change transmission fluid – gear in starboard settee
Check Engine Zincs – 4 months see engine log
Check All Bilge Areas
Service Winches
Check Anchor Fastenings
                     

Orig. Date:  Tuesday, April 08, 2008
Update:       Tuesday, August 25, 2015
********************************************

Finally:  Here, as a PDF attachment, is ONE page of form I made up in Excel that I USE ALL THE TIME.  It's my on-board mechanical/engine checklist.

PS - sorry, I'll have to go back and rescan with a smaller size file to meet the limits.  email me if you want it in the meantime.

Have fun and good luck.  

In this case, it actually makes sense for YOU to reinvent the wheel!  Don't EVER say I said that, though.   :shock: :shock: :shock:
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

britinusa

Thanks Stu.

That's a good start.

My list is building as I read more (and as events entice me to add them to the list - such as - make sure water/fuel/waste deck caps are secure before that boat gets wet! - see my Poop Story article in my blog.)

I think the added advantage of the 'list' would be to other new owners, I'm still finding things I need to learn about despite hours of online reading, offline manual reading and digging around in the boat!

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Stu Jackson

#3
Paul,

Glad to help.

Deck caps are important, for sure, but the REAL important one is the fuel fill.  Keep it secure.  I think CD stopped makin' them (the plastic ones), and in lieu of changing out the whole assembly, I'm actually willing to use one of the backup blue or black ones I have and painting them RED.   :shock: :D

I applaud  :clap :clap :clap  you for doing your homework and research.  Much admired.

That said, I recommend not getting "hung up" on "THE List."  

It actually works better if you start with a good one, your choice, and then just leave it out on the nav station desk and add to it as you go.

Everyone has different "priorities" so you need to figure out what works for YOU and yours.

Personally, I found that it comes "naturally" because I have the "luxury" of using my boat so often.  Others find that strapping the ignition key to the raw water intake thru hull vlve is an absolute necessity.

Your boat, your choice.   :D

PS - I'm still working on getting my PDF engine log (one of the filled-out-by-hand pages example), as well as the original XLS spreadsheet of that Log posted, somewhere on the 'site.  Heck, since Jon Schneider posted "The Knowledgebase" on the TNOs, I should be able to get these two up for you all.  

Time to talk to Dave Sanner, our fabulous Webmaster. :clap :clap :clap
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

britinusa

In my mind, the list would help me remember all the things to check, but as important, it would list those things I know about and those I don't would be absent, that's when the rest of you can chime in and say things like "Don't forget the filter in the fuel pump" (I know about that one :)

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Stu Jackson

Paul, I sent you an email with those files.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

britinusa

Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Ron Hill

#7
Paul : Stu's checklist is very complete, but here's another category to add:

WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING (Boat Underway)

Open starboard engine door (aft cabin) - check to make sure no water is coming out of raw water pump.  
Also check - no oil/coolant/fuel is visible.
Inspect packing gland visually.
Open port side engine door (left of head sink) - check all alternator wiring secured.  Also check - no oil/coolant is visible
Open door under head sink - inspect inlet & outlet of muffler for leaks.  Also check exhaust riser (especially at nipple) for any visible leaks (fuel/water) & hose clamps secure.



I've always found these underway checks to be invaluable!!  
There are more ie. If you adjusted the packing gland - then remove aft cabin cut out and feel the gland nut making sure it's not HOT!!  
Then you can add your own - especially if you've done some mods or maintenance!!

Just A few thoughts

Ron, Apache #788

britinusa

Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Stu Jackson

Ron's right.

Paul, I'd add to your list:  "Read Critical Upgrades" once a month until you have it memorized. :D 8)
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

britinusa

Once a month! I'm going through it at least once a week.

:D

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP