autohelm wp4000 explosion

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Jim Hardesty

Just as I passed the outer buoy after crossing Lake Erie engaged the auto pilot to furl the sails and the auto pilot exploded (my description the halves came apart with a soft bang).  The wheel was jammed, I didn't want to force it hard and break the wheel pilot for sure. Was able to do slow circles and get the sails furled (have in-mast furling).  I removed the wheel and the wheel pilot.  At the dock I gathered all the pieces and two of the molded in axles for the wheels had broken.  After some thought I removed the screws holding the wheels on and increased the hole diameter in the axle one drill size at time to fit a selected screw.  Then I through drilled the wheel pilot half.  Screwed and nutted parts back in place.  I must have located them real close the auto pilot works well.  Think I'll use it as is the rest of the season.
Opinions. Is the newer auto pilots better then the WP4000+ ?  I need to decide on use as is, repair with autohelm parts, or buy new.
As my description isn't good I included a picture of the finished repair.  
Jim

and here's another one  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1055.0.html  [Stu]
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Roc

Jim
Two great minds think alike!!  Same thing happened to me and I made the same repair!!   :thumb:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8597.msg60908.html#msg60908

Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

stevewitt1

#2
My original A/P on my 1989 is a 3000 I think.  I was going to replace it this spring with a linear drive below deck A/P but ran into a couple snags.  This involved new autopilot, radar, wind, depth/speed/temp and display.  Not wanting to spend another 5-7 hundred on a new offset pedestal guard with larger tubing for wires and connecters I have to design a communications conduit at the pedestal.  Installing a below deck tiller arm and the linear drive base is another challenge for me.  Disassemble the rear of the aft cabin and remove the water tank, LP box etc. just became a little overwhelming and looked like it would delay my launch too much so I put it off until haul-out.   So I'm glad to see you've been able to repair yours and I'm open to all suggestions and criticism.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

Jim Hardesty

Roc,
I must have read your fix and filed it away in the back of my alleged mind then thought it was mine.  Are you going to replace yours or do you think the fix is as strong as new?
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Roc

Hi Jim,
It's been at least 4 or 5 years and it works fine.  I plan on keeping things as they are until something goes and can't be repaired.  I believe a new ring for the wheel isn't cheap...  so lets hope what we've got won't split apart in other sections!
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

John Langford

I completely forgot about Roc's earlier post and recently posted an account of the same problem and fix: refastening broken axles/posts for the rotating wheels using screws. Doh! I guess this board just has too much information for the 71 year old brain to retain.

An important point from all of this: increasing grinding noises from the autopilot drive wheel will probably lead eventually to a complete seizure of the drive wheel and this is inevitably going to happen while you are underway probably in a narrow channel. It's the first law of boating and directly related to the more general Murphy's Law.
Cheers
John
"Surprise"
Ranger Tug, 29S

dbpaul

Jim

Just replaced my auto pilot with all new parts.

This is my old ring from 2010.


Nothing wrong with ring and it is free.



paulj

catalina 310

dbpaul

Jim  stop

package sent  stop


paulj     stop