can floor boards be sanded?

[KWKloeber]

P.S. - the 207 hardener is also blush-free, as are all the Mas hardeners.

[anaisdog]

thanks Noah, et al.  Do I hand sand, with a block, or can I use a random orbital sander?  thanks

[Ron Hill]

anias : Do NOT use an orbital sander.

Use a finishing sander ONLY!!!!! And use it lengthwise - not across grain!!

[anaisdog]

then by hand with a sanding block should be more than gentle, esp since I'z a girl.

[Ron Hill]

anias : Even girls can use a finishing sander, just use a fine (120- 140) grit paper and don't press down hard while sanding!!

A thought

[anaisdog]

even girls can single hand :-)  i don't have a finish sander so i'll use a block.

[KWKloeber]

anias : Do NOT use an orbital sander.

Use a finishing sander ONLY!!!!! And use it lengthwise - not across grain!!

Even finish sanders can be orbital -- yah have to know whether it is, or is in-line movement.
I had an old B&G 1/2 sheet sander that was both, flip the lever from orbital to in-line.

Ken

[George Bean]

Any recommendations on how to fill a divot, dimple or gouge before you refinish?

[anaisdog]

the advice i got last night was just to add more vanish

[Roc]

It's hard to find an exact match with any wood putty off the shelf.  What I've tried in the past with woodworking projects is to collect the sanding dust from the piece you are working on.  Mix the dust with some Elmer's wood glue to make your own putty.  Use that to fill in the scrapes and gouges.  That might be your closest match, since you are using the same wood to make the putty.

[anaisdog]

that's a really good idea!  i have bits of wood, from around the screw holes, which chipped out.  i'll glue that back down

[KWKloeber]

that's a really good idea!  i have bits of wood, from around the screw holes, which chipped out.  i'll glue that back down

This is not seeing the extent or the severity of the gouges..... so take it with a shake of salt.

If you've done any wood finishing (varnish, staining) where wood glue has dripped onto the surface, you cannot match, even a bad match, of the virgin wood fibers.  If you want it to look anywhere near the original, an option is replace the missing veneer.

You can buy teak veneer -- trim out the bad spot (presume it's an inch or two long?) using a metal straight edge and x-acto knife or razor knife, and sharp, thin wood chisel.  Trim the teak veneer and glue or epoxy into place, sand to blend with the surrounding.

Alternately, carefully sand the gouge to remove sharp edges and splinters, and fill with clear epoxy (per previous post).
Then varnish with the remainder of the floor.

Ken

[anaisdog]

Noah, what grade of sandpaper did you use?  thanks

[Noah]

It all depends on how much finish and/or wood you want/need to remove. Depending how much veneer has been removed already over the years, what is left could be very thin, so be careful. Mine was basically in good shape, so I treated it as a straight forward varnish recoat project: 220 grit, then 320 grit. For the sole I used Epinfanes Wood Finish matte, which does not require sanding between coats if applied within 72 hours between coats; a labor saver. I would apply at least 5 coats. It also comes in gloss as well.

[anaisdog]

i will then, but not starting until the spring. i have been warned that the varnish will not dry well enough, with the michigan cold coming up and i really should get the leaks fixed before i open the floors up. thanks