shower drain hose

[garyw]

Hi
I can see that this is a popular topic that comes up in different variations.   On my 1986 boat,  there was no hose attached to the shower drain at all so I have been struggling with trying to get a new hose attached in this very small space.   I cut a square hole in the floor to help things along but am still struggling to attach the hose to the drain end of the shower  and then put in a 90 elbow so that the hose can be pushed past the head floor .   I've used plastic elbow  which is too wide for the space and also copper elbow .   Any suggestions would be appreciated or tricks people have come up with  . Really don't want to cut any more holes.   I am using 1 inch reinforced hose for the longer part and have now tried rubber for the small part that goes on the end of the drain tip .   1 inch seems to be the size that fits the drain end. 

Thanks

Gary

[Stu Jackson]

From the Knowledgebase, May 2001 Tech Notes, even has pictures of the cut you need to make in the subfloor.  My hose from the sump is 3/4" as are all the rest of the hoses down there.  It's only the pressure water hoses that are 1/2".

[sailaway]

I own a 1986.  My floor drain is 3/4 and goes to a diaphragm pump then an up loop. Then back down to a seacock for the water intake for the head. Charlie

[garyw]

Thanks  I guess my question is how to connect the hose to the shower drain .  It looks like it was a screw mount but mine is missing .   

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks  I guess my question is how to connect the hose to the shower drain .  It looks like it was a screw mount but mine is missing .   

Gary,

Not sure what you mean by "screw mount.? 

Do you mean hose clamp?

Use two...

[garyw]

I took a picture but can't seem to post it to this website of the underside of the drain but I sent it to the webmaster.   This would fit a 3/4 inch plastic elbow .   

Gary

[Stu Jackson]

I took a picture but can't seem to post it to this website .......
Gary

Gary,

That's why I/we developed the "101 Topics"   

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7751.0.html

[Roger Rathbun]

Gerry Douglas suggests rounding or 'radiusing' the corners of any access hole cut in the fiberglass subfloor under the cabin sole, to prevent stress cracks from forming at the corners over time.

[garyw]

This is the photo from the access hole I made looking at the drain from below.  Looks like something should be screwed on to this

gary

[mregan]

A lot of the drain fittings the factory used in the 80's are threaded.   You don't necessarily have to use a threaded fitting if you can get the hose & clamp over it.  Tough to tell from the picture but if you can get your hand to the drain it may be easier to put a threaded elbow on.  If you can't get a wrench in there to tighten it i'd put some pipe dope on the fitting, thread it on as tight as you can and then add a threaded nipple attached to hose.  Since the water going in the drain isn't pressurized, you shouldn't get any leakage at the elbow once the pipe dope sets.  If you do get some leakage, it should be minimal and drain into the bilge anyway.

[garyw]

Thanks .   Most of the threaded elbows are too big for the area , at least the ones at home depot.   I''ll try again to put a hose over it with a clamp , unless there is a way to get a smaller elbow that would fit.   

Gary

[Ron Hill]

Gary : You may want to look in an auto parts store for a preformed 90 degree 3/4" ID hose to clamp on to that drain fitting.

A thought

[garyw]

Thanks for all the helpful advice

[BobAthensGA]

While you're at it..... Three things I did this winter and have been very pleased with the results.
1) Added a small piece of window screen over the floor drain. Tacked into place with some silicone
2) Replaced the stock strainer with a Jabsco Pumpgard In-Line Strainer. The top screws off to access the strainer. Very easy to do. I really like the top access. Easy to reach and see.
3) The absolute best change was adding a Jabsco In-Line Check Valve between the strainer and the pump. This has absolutely cut out 100% of the shower back flow back onto the floor. I hate getting my socks wet on a cold winters night. I went with the Jabsco because it takes just the smallest amount of pressure to push open the valve. To test it I let the sink trickle into it at the lowest setting and it did not impede forward water flow. You barely have to blow into it and it will open but it was very resistant on the back flow.

I will try and post part numbers this weekend. I just had the names in my notes. Both parts about $20.