Starter solenoid fuse holder

[Juan]

Stu:

sometime ago you posted a picture of a nice starter solenoid fuse holder. I would like to change mine to something more durable, probably like yours. Is that a fuse holder you can find anywhere, or it is something special that you had to ordered?

Thanks.

Juan

[Stu Jackson]

Available at any hardware store.  Most folks go the route of the newer flat blade style fuses.  I used this one because our 1986 main electrical panel uses the old style cylindrical fuses, so I didn't want to have to stock two kinds.

[Noah]

I did mine recently and used a solenoid for the glow plug and yellow in-line fuse holder for the starter from West Marine.  Since I have been practically "living" at West lately, it was easier than searching an auto parts store and not much more $.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : If you go to an auto parts store you can get a "stab-in" inline fuse holder.  
The stab-in holder appears to be sealed from the elements (moisture, air, rust) a bit more than the Buss glass fuses & holders.

Also you can see if the fuse is blown with out taking it out of the holder!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

Not to start something here that's off-subject, but the best thing you can do, is clip the fuse, butt splice the wire, and install a fuse at the other end of the harness or a circuit breaker on the panel. 

That solenoid wire is totally non-compliant, as is the older panel circuits.  A fuse at the LOAD end?  Shame! 
It needs to be at the power supply end.  What does the fuse do if there's chafing and a short develops between the panel and solenoid?  Nothing but remain intact as a fire starts.

There should also be a 30a in-line fuse on the 12v+ supply wire to the panel, within 7" of the solenoid post, and a 20a fuse or breaker on the feed for any 16ga wire carrying current back to the engine (egs, fuel pump, alt field exciter) but is unnecessary on the ground wires (egs, temp sender, oil pressure switch.)

Ken