Engine cradle for M25XP Rebuild

[Marc G]

After have lab tests performed on my M25XP oil and coolant I find that I have coolant in the oil at a severe level rating as well as high lead levels (babbitt?)
I am pulling the engine this fall and as my winter project will pull the head and look at the lower end as well. I need to fabricate a cradle/stand to hold the engine while I work on it. Has anyone purchased, have one, or know where to look for one.  Any dimensions for the engine mount locations would be helpful, as I can get some angle iron and have one welded.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Marc

[Dave Spencer]

Marc,
I don't have a cradle design but the Universal sales brochure for the M25XP has installation dimensions.  It should be easy to build a cradle with this information.  
http://shop.torresen.com/utility/includes/content/universal/sales_lit/M25XP.pdf

Good luck with your winter project!

[Stu Jackson]

Marc, a friend of mine built a dolly for his M25 engine rebuild project.  Two fixed wheels, two turning, worked great in moving it around in his garage, hooking up to water and drain lines.

[Ron Hill]

Marc : Look around and in the news paper for a used engine stand.  Also look at Harbor Freight.  Or make your own.

From the age of your engine I'd plan on a complete rebuild and replace ALL of the seals and gaskets.  No sense in a ring/valve job/head replacement and then come up with oil leaks.  You might also consider moving the oil pan drain to the rear of the oil pan and putting a plug in the present hole

Let me know as I've got a slightly used damper plate (100 hrs).

Good Luck, a bunch of thoughts.

[Marc G]

Thank you for the engine arrangement link and the suggestions. I am in process of designing a cradle and purchasing steel for it.
I am going to do a top end inspection 1st then lower then assess how to proceed with rebuild or replace.

Ill keep it touch with my winter project...

[mainesail]

Thank you for the engine arrangement link and the suggestions. I am in process of designing a cradle and purchasing steel for it.
I am going to do a top end inspection 1st then lower then assess how to proceed with rebuild or replace.

Ill keep it touch with my winter project...

I just use a Harbor Fright 1000 pound engine stand. I think it was $59.00..... I simply can't buy the steel for that price.... They also have a 750 pound stand for about $48.00....

[Andrew Harvey]

Marc,
If you need any spare parts, let me know.
My old M25 is sitting on my shop floor taking up space
Andrew

[scotty]

You might also consider installing a tube from the drain hole for oil changes.  They make it so much easier.  I wonder if there are disadvantages to that?

[Marc G]

Andrew,

I'll keep you in mind should I start needing parts.  Thanks
you.

Scotty,
My oil pan is equipped with a flex hose from the drain point, but its pretty useless.  Too low to put a pan under, to far forward to drain all the oil from the sloped pan.  I use a pump thru the dipstick and that still leaves almost a Qt of oil in  the pan.  What need is a drain at the rer end and a pump out connection.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Guys,
As Ron Hill has suggested a few times, it would be best to have a drain plug installed on the rear of the oil pan with a hose attached especially if you are going to have the engine out to work on it.
Or......you could use my idea of having a party and have everyone stand on the bow to get the propper tilt on the oil pan for that last quart of oil.

Where there's a will, there's a way,     

Mike

[Andrew Harvey]

I used one those oil extractor pumps attached directly to the oil pan drain hose.
You just need to get the fittings to connect the 1/4 PVC hose the rubber hose