Adding Mast Cleat and Genoa Furling Line Cleat

[Mike McDonald]

Hi all,
I want to add to additional cleats and am looking for some advice on cleat type, size and location.  Following are the 2 cleats I want to add and why:
1:  A mast cleat to use when lifting the keel-stepped mast prior to haul out.  I use a sling for the gin pole hook, with a line running down to a cleat on the mast.  It is a 7" Forespar cleat (marelon or aluminum?)  I'm concerned that it is not strong enough and would like to add a larger, more substantial cleat. 

2:  A smaller cleat to attach the Genoa furling line to, especially when sailing with the Genoa partially reefed.  I was thinking a small 4" marelon jam cleat might work for this?? 

I would appreciate any thoughts you have based on your experience.  I'm sure there are lots of options.  Thanks.
Mike......

[Jeff Tancock]

Can't help with the mast cleat, but for the furling cleat I bought a large (8"?) sliding track cleat that I remove when not needed. It's only on when the wind pipes up and I think that I might need to reef the headsail. I sometimes use it when rafting to certain boats...usually larger power boat as a spring.

[Mike McDonald]

Thanks Jeff.
Mike....

[patrice]

Hi all,
2:  A smaller cleat to attach the Genoa furling line to, especially when sailing with the Genoa partially reefed.  I was thinking a small 4" marelon jam cleat might work for this?? 

I would appreciate any thoughts you have based on your experience.  I'm sure there are lots of options.  Thanks.
Mike......

Hi,

My line for the genoa furling come on the port side thru small stanchion pulley.  And I have a 4in. cleat attach on the outside coaming wall after the winch.
The remainder of the line get in the molded pocket inside coaming wall.
Here is a picture that I just crop from the whole side, not sure if it will be good ...

[Ron Hill]

Mike : I have a 5" aluminum jam cleat for the furling line on the side coming.

On the mast I'd use a 6" aluminum cleat.  A few thoughts

[Kevin Henderson]

Mike,

I have the cleat mounted just as Patrice had mentioned.  However, the PO had a nice arrangment that I liked and one that I continue to use.  Mounted on the forward rail of the aft pushpit, is a swivel ratchet block.  This allows me to easily adjust the amount of line given out if I want to reef in the Genoa.  I have adjusted the direction of the cleat a couple times to accomodate my preference but it seems to work fine for me.  Several of my boat neighbors have also tried this solution as well.   

[Stu Jackson]

We have our furling line on starboard, but have a non-ratcheting block at exactly the same position that Kevin shows.  In lieu of a deck mounted cleat like Patrice showed, we installed a Johnson cleat clamped to the stanchion above the block about halfway up to the lower rail of the pushpit.  Since we never reef either of our two jibs (we choose the jib for the season and always fully deploy either our summer 85% or winter 110%), I'd thought about the ratchet block but decided we didn't need it.  I just think that having a cleat on the rail may be better than putting one on the top of the coaming, since I tend to want to stand or sit there.

Your boat, your choice.   

[Ron Hill]

Like Stu said don't mount a cleat on the deck as it tends to get in the way and is a trip hazard.

Mount your cleat on the side angled coming like I and Pat did.  

I also have a #16 Lewmar ST winch mounted on the deck aft of the primary jib winch.  I can also put the furler line in the self tailer - which I frequently do.  A few thoughts

[Mike McDonald]

Lot's of good idea's.  Thanks everyone.
Mike.....

[Ken Juul]

not sure I would trust a cleat to hold the weight of the mast.  Most places I've seen use a rope with a loop.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I'm sure that Mike uses a loop above the balance point and the cleat is to secure the bitter end. 

[Clay Greene]

For the furling line, Garhauer makes a stanchion mounted cam cleat that swivels.  It grips the line very effectively and is nicely out of the way.  Super easy to install and no new holes in the boat needed.  I like it better than a regular cleat because a cleat is an odd angle if mounted on the coaming and it is not easy to tie a cleat hitch under load if you are furling the headsail.   

Stanchion Blocks
SB-25C - Stainless Steel Blocks length: 3-1/2 width: 2-5/8
weight: 11 oz shackle: 
sheave diameter: 1-3/4

25 series block with swivels 360 degrees. Comes with cam cleat

$45.00

[Mike McDonald]

Hi Ken,
Ron is correct.  The line that I cleat is attached to the loop.  It does carry much of the vertical lifting weight as the mast is pulled through the deck.  Once the mast clears the deck, it is swung to a horizontal position with the loop carrying all of the weight at the balance point.  You are right about carrying all of the weight on the cleat, that would be too much for most cleats, I'm sure. 

Claygr,
That sounds like a good idea, I'll take a look at the Garhauer Stanchion mounted cam cleat.  Do you mount it to the forward stanchion of pushpit, or one of the lifeline stanchions?  Thanks.
Mike.....

[patrice]

HI,

I would mount it on the pushpit post, this way you can acces the line from the cockpit.

[Kevin Henderson]

Mike,

Take a look at the picture of the location from my previous post.  Mine is exactly the same arrangement that Claygr has except mine is a Harken Block.