Engine Oil Blown Out Dipstick Tube

[waterdog]

Thanks.  All good ideas.   Mechanic is coming Monday to check things over.   I won't have a chance to even get to the boat until then.     

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Steve,
When I purchased my boat and had the engine surveyed,with the engine running, the mechanic took a piece of paper about 4x6 and layed it over the valve cover opening where you add oil, to see if the paper would blow off the opening. It did not which was good according to him.
I realize that this is a very basic test but may be a start.

Mike

[Indian Falls]

That doesn't sound like much of a test... especially with all the vibration throwing a piece of paper off the engine... in my opinion that surveyor has more than a fair share of B.S. 

It's simple, if the breather tube has "wind" coming out of it... something is wrong!  A bit of smoke, a barely detectable flow of gasses out the tube is normal.  Combustion gasses that get past the rings are what come out of the breather tube.  Lots of gasses coming out means lots of wear in the cylinder.  I'd just go up several viscosities in the engine oil... say 20w50 or better.  If you can't start it cuz it's too cold out then it's time to rebuild or buy another engine.  But that's just me..

[lazybone]

This might not relate to the problem but a few years back my oil dipstick kept popping up and out allowing a fine mist of oil to make a mess of the engine.
The dipstick seemed loose in the dip tube so I ordered a new one.

The new dipstick with its new seal has yet to jump out and cause a problem.

I'm assuming the old rubber on the old dipstick shrunk and caused the ill fit problem?

[Len]

Waterdog,
Sounds like you found the problem. I use a jegs oil separator on my M35. It has a see thru glass (high temp plastic) so you can monitor the oil level in the separator. It has a twist drain on the bottom and cost about $45 but worth it IMHO. I routed the outlet to my engine (K&N) air filter and no longer have an oily bilge. See the link attached. There are more suppliers than jegs, but they were able to deliver it to me. Good Luck.

Len
SV/ Crazy Legs 

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Air-Oil-Separator/763433/10002/-1

[Ron Volk]

Len,

Could you show a picture of your setup?

Thanks,

Ron

[Len]

Hi Ron,
I had to figure out how, hope it works! My set up will be different than yours. My M35 is in a 1989 C&C 37+. I like the C34 site for the great engine information! The separator will just fasten on anywhere that is convenient for you and plumb it to fit. 
Len

[waterdog]

Ahhhgh.   Mechanic came Monday.  "engine is all good".  "well maintained".  Asked him to do a compression check.   He did a "balance check" cracking injectors one at a time.  Concluded that compression was ok, maybe number 2 was down a bit but nothing he would tear an engine apart for.  The valve adjustment I did was perfect, only one was slightly off.    Concluded that engine oil blowing out dipstick probably was a result of the breather assembly as it doesn't take much pressure - "you get more blow by at low revs"  (we were fishing at the time).   The noise that was bothering me probably wasn't valve noise but maybe injectors.  I should have them rebuilt at some point.  And also check for carbon build up in the exhaust at the water insertion nipple   The white smoke went away when he warmed up the engine.  He says its from running at low revs.  Everything is great.  My wife and son who were at the boat with him thought he was a really good mechanic.  He is from the local Universal dealer and trains the other mechanics. 

So I get to the boat last night.  Start the engine.  Doesn't sound right.  Still the loud noise.  White smoke.   Lots of it.  Never seen it before.  Replaced injectors.  No difference compared to old injectors   White smoke does go away when engine warm   Went for a run.  Lost power couldn't get above 2000 rpm.  Engine died off Point Atkinson, no wind, water is 200 feet deep 100 feet off shore, tide pushing us along at a knot...

Anyway the problem with the pressure in the crankcase is solved.  But there is clearly more than one problem.  The first of which may be my choice of mechanics.  Since I do all the work on the engine, we'll ignore that for the moment. 

Screwdriver inserted at exhaust nipple goes in easily with no obstruction and comes out clean.  Fuel filter is new - bowl looks beautifully clear, and I have never had bad fuel.   I am thinking, start with a real compression test.  Other suggestions?  New mechanic?

[waterdog]

Ok much happier spending $150 on a compression test set than another mechanic.  Though a good one would be well worth the money.   

Cylinders 1,2,3:   240,170,275 dry. 260,180,280 wet

So to me it seems maybe all that white smoke is from unburned fuel in #2 and the noise is in fact valve noise, but not just clicky tappets, something more sinister.   Am I missing something?   Time to pull the head and have a look?

[Craig Illman]

Are those PSI numbers? or a metric reading? You have way too much disparity between #2 and the others. Looks like optimal is 320 PSI? Since the wet wasn't much different than dry and there's white smoke, it sounds like a head gasket. Time to pull the head. :-(  Start reading Dave Sanner's article on rebuilding. Not the best time of year in this part of North America to be dealing with this.

Craig

[waterdog]

Yes.  PSI.    I pulled the head.   Head gasket separated on removal and bits left on the block, but it was along the port side edge - nothing between critical bits that I could see.    Cylinders all look good.   Valves were OK, nothing badly pitted, burned, cracked or bent.   They are all nicely lapped and reseated now.   Top end is all done.   Oh, for a head gasket on a Sunday.    I would like to go on vacation next weekend without having to tow the mothership around by the dingy...   

[waterdog]

Old gasket and valves.   Head cleaned up ready to go.