windlass

[Bobg]

gettin older, need to install a windlass in my 1988 catalina 34, I have printed out what Ron Hill has done, and am very interested in his installation.   Ron, have you anything to add?  Would you have done anything different to your initial installation?  Has anyone else installed a windlass in their 88 or earlier boat. Any information would be appreciated from those that have "been there" done that.  Thank you guys

[Ron Hill]

Bob : The only thing that I would change is that I should have added the down switch.  I had a number of people tell me that you only need the UP switch - wrong!!
 
There have been a few times that I've hauled in the chain too fast and it needed to be cleaned off better than I did!  With a down switch it could be put back in the water easier and then just start over again.
MA few times the anchor has turned so it wouldn't go into the bow roller as it should.  Again with a down switch it could have been put down a foot and easily straighten out. 

So put in a DOWN switch at the cost of $25?, while you are installing the UP switch!!  My thoughts!!

[Fred Koehlmann]

I'll second what Ron says. Ours (a 2002 MkII) came with the windlass, which has only an "UP" switch. To put the rode down you need to take the winch handle and release the clutch, and then re-engage it to use the switch again. I can't tell you how many times I've had a twist, jam, hooked object or other reason to want to lower the rode during the raising operation. On the Grampian 26 and C&C 30 it was easy to haul and lower the rode and anchor manually, but this setup is to heavy for that, and without both switches, very involved a times.

So, I'm thinking that I need to install the "DOWN" switch at some point. Unfortunately this is further down the list of "To Do's".

[Jim Hardesty]

Shamrock's windless has the normal gypse for the chain and rode also has a drum.  I remove the chain and rode and use the drum for other task, mostly accending the mast.  I lead a halyard to it with a block then a trusted (trained) friend sends me up with a toe tap.  And FWIW as long as you are installing do the up and down if you use a gypse.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Bob : I can't over-emphasize how easy it is to install both a Up & Down switches when you are doing the initial installation. 
And how difficult it is to think about tearing the whole joint apart again - to just install a down switch that you should have done the first time!! 

Think about it!! 

[TonyP]

Here is ours all tucked into the well and behind the v-berth front panel.
Add a down switch.

[2ndwish]

We installed one a couple of years ago. It was largely based on Michael Shaner's installation documented in the Tech Wiki. Some details and lessons learned are in :

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=6263.0

Feel free to PM if you need questions answered.

[Bobg]

Thank you all for the input, I believe I will also fab a ss winch mounting bracket, as I have access to the material and welding equip.  I see the Lewmar V700, and Lewmar V-1 mentioned, is that what most recommend? I havn;t researched much, I wanted to see what my friends on this board had to say first.  And Ron I certainly will install a down switch as per your recommendation.
 
Is the bulkhead strong enough to bolt the brackett on the way it is? (thought I read inch and a half the way it is)  I really don't care if the backing plate and bolts are visible in the V berth.  But Ron didn't you add more plywood to make it thicker? 

I do see Scotty and 2nd wish mounting bracketts are different, is the design kind of up to the end user or is there anything specific out there on this retrofit.  Lots of questions guys, but this is a big addition for me and would like be close to getting  it right first time around.  Also do I get a dedicated winch battery and mount it as far forward as possible?  I would like the idea of dropping the anchor from the cockpit if possible.  Thanks again guys.

[waterdog]

I have a V700.   It's adequate, but broke a main shaft on it at one point.   Price and weight are good.    You might want to read Nigel Calder's thoughts on a dedicated battery for the windlass.    There is a lot to be said for a big house bank and big cables going forward.   As soon as you discharge that battery forward, you pretty much need big cables for the current it will draw to charge anyway.   I use a down switch about 5 times on an average anchor haul up. 

Now is the time to think if you want a capstan to pull somebody up the stick.   If yes, that will influence your windlass selection and installation. 

[scotty]

Good idea to put in a windlass.  I really liked mine.  I felt that the bulkhead was strong, and used large (thick) stainless backing straps to spread out the load.  On my brother's Cat 36 the bulkead was less well attached (go figure), so I put two large teak pieces, then the stainless backing straps.  No engeneering calculations, just looking at the way the bulkhead on the 34 was solid and well tabbed to the hull.  I think that 2nd Wish and I have similar pieces, I just wanted to add a bit of room on the front end for an anchor snubber - which worked well for me.  I made up a cardboard mock-up to be sure it fit my anchor locker.  Yes, in addition to the up and down switch, I also put in a rocker switch at the helm station.  Easy to do when installing the unit.  I found it useful, but most of the time I went forward anyway.  I chose not to put in a dedicated battery to save weight.  My batteries were in the area forward of the dinette, so large wire (forget size now, sorry) made it work.  Never had a problem, but might if I was out for an extended time?  Hope these thoughts help.  Good luck with your project.