new engine control panel

[Ed Shankle]

Installed a new engine control panel in the cockpit this weekend; interesting exercise of having to trace a few wires that didn't fit the profile in the wiring schematic that we have posted. Like the fuel pump being wired directly to the key switch. But managed ok and everything works! The new panel is weatherproofed much better than the old. The boot covers that Ron has noted that he added, is now included on the panel. So the key switch, push start and blower switch are all protected.
On the initial start up I had some jumpy gauges so I figured my engine grounds needed cleaning up. Did that and butt ended the ground wire that went through the terminal strip in the engine compartment (another Ron suggestion). No jumpy gauges after that. Will get back to butt ending the rest of those terminal strip wires next week. Also up next is the solonoid switch for the glow plugs.

Ed

[mregan]

Ed
Where did you find a cover for the ignition.  I've been trying to find one to cover the key opening when not in use.

[Ron Hill]

mre : The boot for the ignition switch usually come with the switch, although I've seen them separately in marine catalogs. 

Try the Sierra Co on the internet and see if they sell them separately?  A thought

[sselinger]

Did you buy or make the panel? If you bought it, where did you get it from?

I have a 1990 Mk 1, and my panel is looking pretty ratty. I have been thinking about making or buying a new panel?

[Ralph Masters]

To cover my key slot I use the white plastic cap that comes on the propane bottles for the bar b que. 

Ralph

[Ed Shankle]

mr, I didn't get a cover, my point was the individual switches, ignition, push start and blower all come "booted". If you meant an overall cover for the panel, I temporarily used the same plexiglass cover, but will get another made. Also will make a sunbrella cover for the whole space, to use when off the boat.
The interesting thing about the ignition boot is that it is split in two, creating a separate front from the back. So when the key is out you can turn the front a 1/4 turn and the back key slot is covered. Then when you go to put the key in, just rotate back so that it aligns with the "off" mark and the key will pass through both sections of the boot. I thought that was inventive.
Got the panel last fall from Seaward. Didn't get around to installing it then. It's almost a perfect replacement. I say almost because the screw holes didn't line up all around. That was actually ok since some of my screws were loose in the fiberglass. I was going to need to address that anyway. So instead I just used the holes on one side that were still good and drilled out new holes for the rest. The new panel came wired to a new terminal strip, so my procedure was to do one wire at a time. Take it off the old term strip, cut it back, strip the end and install in the new term strip. And figure out the mystery wires along the way.
The other thing I forgot to mention yesterday is that the tach doesn't have dip switches anymore. Just a hole in the back to access an adjustment screw to calibrate. I didn't calibrate yet, so I can't comment on the degree of difficulty.

Ed