shower pump

[ghebbns]

Hi all,

I am still trying to figure out the plumbing on my C34.  One of the POs has made some changes to the stock plumbing system.  On the positive side, they drilled two holes behind the head with hoses going up to the lazerette and a vented loop.  This will make proper installation of my new head much easier.

I am still trying to figure out what is going on with the shower drain.  Right now there is water in it so it isn't draining.  I found a hose that has been cut (for some reason the PO cut most of the hoses.  I think he was planning on replacing them but sold the boat before he did.)   that is laying just inside the door under the sink.  I believe this is connected to the drain as when I shake it, the water level in the drain moves.  Is it possible that the hose is connected directly to the drain?  Am I correct that this usually connects to an electric pump and then out one of the seacocks?  If so, I have several other questions but I will wait to hear responses to this initial question.  Obviously the pump is not there but I see a piece of wood epoxied to the hull where I think it used to be installed.

Thanks,

Greg

[Ron Hill]

Greg : The way your shower drain was plumbed by the factory was:
The water entered the drain in the corner where the door closes.  That (underneath the floor) hose then went to a one way valve (to prevent back flow) and then to a diaphragm pump.  The pump out flow went to a vented loop and then to the center thru hull which was a double - as it also had an elbow for the head raw water inlet.

Some of us have added a filter just before the back flow valve (so it can't get clogged and fail), but most of the origional factory plumbing is still intact.

Looks like the PO really took things apart!  Good Luck

[Stu Jackson]

Ron's right.  That hose you can handle you should be very careful with, so as to not disconnect it from the shower sump which is underneath the galley/companionway sole.  It sounds like he simply removed the check (one way) valve which in turn went to the diaphragm pump which he also removed.  BTW, the manual for your boat, available in the C34 Tech wiki, shows all this stuff pretty well.

Sounds like you need a new pump, check valve (easy to find at WM) and some hose.  The on/off switch for the pump should be right there to your left when sitting on the wooden slats.  There's also a sump pump switch on the electrical panel at the nav station, bottom one on the right.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=4114.15

[ghebbns]

Thanks for this. Stu, that picture was worth a thousand words. The hose I found is cut exactly when the check valve was. I think your explanation is dead on.

Am I correct that many people have change the order of the seacocks? I am thinking of t-ing the sink drain and head intake and put the shower pump on its own seacock.

Greg

[Stu Jackson]

Head Odors 101.1 - "T" into sink drain:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.msg38216.html#msg38216

From the "101 Topics" sticky.

[ghebbns]

I was able to get to the boat for a short while today.  Just out of curiosity, I stuck my cell phone under the head floor and took a picture.  Not a great photo but at least I see that the hose is connected :)

[Stu Jackson]

Greg, great idea and good news.  So now all you need is a pump, a check valve, and a strainer (as Ron suggested).  I don't have a strainer, but rather use Ron's idea of siliconing in a small screen over the suction hole.  My check valve, as noted in the link, is also service-able.  Good luck.

If you don't have a quick shut-off on your sink wand, get one.  It saves water and keeps the temperature consistent when you're showering.  I love our shower and use it instead of trudging to shore.  Never know what kinda conditions those shore-side showers can be. 

[Ron Hill]

Greg : Look for that piece of plywood near the port side to the right when looking thru the door under the head sink.  You can mount a rotary pump on that piece of plywood that was used to hold the diagraph pump.

To let you get at that wood on the hull, cut a 8" hole in the fiberglass under the teak shower seat.  Then mount a Beckson port to access that hole.  Now you can get at that wood, mount a pump and connect the hoses easily.  
Wrote an article on adding a strainer in the mainsheet tech notes.  I left the plumping as the factory did it and am satisfied.  But some avid plumbers have change theirs?

If you look in projects you'll see I did that well over 20 years ago (w/pictures).  1st Mate uses that extra space for toilet paper and Kleenex storage (wrapped on ziplock bags).

A few thoughts

[Stu Jackson]

If you click on "C34 Tech wiki" on the top of this page, then scroll down to "Another View", at the bottom of that box is a line called "Projects" then click on that and look for Ron's article.

[Ron Hill]

Greg : I also wrote another article on "Extra storage areas". 

That Mainsheet article (w/pictures) included that area under the shower seat, storage behind the head, behind the seat back in the aft cabin, a larger drawer under the sink and the vented doors under the Vberth.

A few more ideas!!

[Indian Falls]

I've been looking for a "serviceable" check valve for a while... one of you guys have a source for that?

[Albreen]

Dan - I haven't installed this Raritan check valve yet but I bought it two weeks ago from Defender:
Raritan Check Valve
Raritan 3/4" PVC Check Valve, 3/4" Hose Barbs On Each End

Item #:  500918
Brand:  Raritan
Model #:  RCV

I plan to install soon. This one can be taken apart and reassembled if clogged.

[Lance Jones]

I second, third and fourth Ron's suggestion of a filter prior to the check valve. I use to have to replace said valve annually (we live aboard). I haven't had to replace it in the years since I added the filter.

[Albreen]

I should also put in a strainer as suggested. Did you use one like this?