Galley sink installation

[mregan]

I removed my galley sink as part of a larger countertop project.  Looks like it was only held down by silicone.  When I re-install I'm planning on doing the same thing.  For others that have done it, how do you make sure you get a tight seal.  I was thinking of putting some 10 lb weights along the edge to make sure it sealed well?

Also, in front of the faucet there is another small 3/8-1/2" hole.  Mine has a cap installed.  I've seen others have a small faucet with no valve handles?  What is the hole supposed to be used for?

[patrice]

Hi,

The other faucet is usually used with a seawater foot pump.
So need to pump to get water, no handle..   

[Ron Hill]

mre : Is your sink installation to be a top or underneith mounted sink?  Makes a differance on the caulk you'll need to use!

The center hole faucet tube was origionally used for sea water as mentiond, but there are other possibilities. You can plumb in fresh water/sea water or plumb in the water from the "ice box". 

A few thoughts

[mregan]

Ron
Sink is top mount. It's the original '86 sink.  What would be the purpose of plumbing in the water from the ice box?  I have the foot pump now that pumps the ice box water into the drain.  Would there be another use for the water?

[Ron Hill]

Mre : With a top mounted sink you can use regular clear silicone caulk. 

On your question - with the new countertop and removal of the sink you can straighten out that goofy drain system the factory installed.  You can go to 1 1/4" PVC drain pipe (see Mainsheet tech notes or Projects or WiKi) and get you sink to really drain!! 
Then you'll need somewhere to run the drain hose from the ice box.  That's what I did, is to take the ice box drain hose and plump it into that center Whale "pipe tube". I also can use it (Y valve) to foot pump fresh water just in case the 12v pump were to fail!!

A few thoughts.

[gregbin]

When you pull the countertop off can you add insulation around the icebox?

[Ron Hill]

greg : Great Question - the answer is yes!  With the countertop removed you can get to the outside wall between the fridge box and the hull.  That area is the hardest to insulate.

I shot some foam into that void with the top still on, but it was a guessing game as to how much foam!?!  I was concerned that too much foam expansion might? over expand and cave in the fridge box wall to the inside.  So with the counter top off you'll be able to see that void and even slide in some 3 1/2" fiberglass instead of using foam.  

When you insulate don't forget the fwd wall that has a seat cushion against it.  I used some 1/2" double foil faced styrafoam for that area.  3 1/2" foil faced fiberglass elsewhere.  The aft fridge wall is too close to the oven/stove to do much unless you insulate from the inside!

A few thoughts

 

[mregan]

With my counter off, there are no openings to get foam or any insulation around the ice box.  Underneath the counter it is fiberglass.  I plan on drilling some holes in the fiberglass and spray foam in from the top.  On the side facing the stove, I plan on drilling some holes in the side of the stove opening to spray some foam in there.  Other 2 sides I should easier to get to.

[Ron Hill]

mre : You best measure again to make sure that there is a void between the aft inside of the fridge box and the wall on the stove side.  

The reason I mention that is there isn't a void on my 1988!!
That's why I suggested insulation on the inside of the fridge for that wall.   A thought