Mk II shaft log

[John Langford]

Does anyone know the precise outside diameter of the shaft log on the MK II? I am going to replace my PSS shaft seal bellows and the old bellows covers too much of the shaft log to give me comfort about the measurement at the front end. Anyone who has installed a shaft seal or replaced the hose on the stuffing box might have this information filed away.

[Tom Soko]

John,
When I replaced the PSS bellows on my C36, the shaft log was 1-5/8" OD.  PYI told me to order the 1-1/2" bellows, as it would stretch slightly to make a snug fit.  They were correct.  I'm 99% sure that your C34 has the same shaft log, as it has the same shaft and same engine as the C36.  Hope this helps.

[Roc]

John,
I'm interested to hear how the rebuild kit installation works out.  Your set up is probably like mine.  Pictures would help.  I'm planning on doing the same.

Thanks!

[billandalita]

Thanks for this thread as I am getting ready to replace my PSS shaft seal this spring.  I also intend to fit a water injection barb into the graphite  flange as there is only a stopper screw there now.  Could someone suggest how best to run a hose from the barb to a position above the waterline.  Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks.  Bill

[Roc]

Bill,
Here's how I ran the hose above the waterline.....  run the hose to the port side, above the muffler into the area that is under the Head sink. From there go up into the lazarette and run the end of the hose as high as possible.  You'll make a few holes, but that run keeps the hose moving through inner areas.

[billandalita]

Thanks.  Looks like a good plan.  Will get everything ready before the Spring haulout.  Bill

[John Langford]

Wouldn't it be easier just to run the line up into the top of the engine box either on the port or starboard side of the engine? No drilling required and easy access to the end of the hose.

To keep the story going. I have a half coupling that is split fore and aft halfway along its length with bolts on both sides to close the split and tighten the coupling to the shaft. Am I right in assuming that if I release the bolts and tap wedges into the two splits the coupling will release relatively easily (the assembly is clean, dry and rust free). And, if that is true, when I reverse the procedure, the half coupling will slide back on without a lot of force? I had a press fit half coupling on an earlier boat and while it came off using the "socket method", it required a lot of hammering on the end of the shaft to get it back on. That was pretty harrowing and I am hoping not to have to do that again.

[Roc]

John,
Leading the hose up into the port lazarette puts it well above the water line.  I felt the higher the better.

[tonywright]

I put mine through the engine area and into the area under the head sink, and up under the sink as high as possible (next to the vented loop).

I used a hose rated for the heat inside the engine compartment - figured this would be important.

I also sanded the lip under the engine box smooth: it would have sawed through the hose.