painting heat exchanger

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SailingJerry

I pulled my heat exchanger, wire brushed the corrosion, ordered new end cap gaskets and zincs from Catalina Direct, and am ready to bring it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned out. Any suggestions for the type(s) of paint to use on it? If I prime it with zinc chromate will that be OK with the heat from the hot water inside?

Jerry
There is NOTHING--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.    Kenneth Grahame

Stu Jackson

Jerry, I suggest reading the labels on the paint cans.  The temperature of the exhaust has been reported to be about 250F.  Maine Sail wrote on another forum:  "I have not measured an aux diesel exhaust at over 375F and that was with a plugging exhaust elbow."  Rustoleum makes a high temperature paint.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

mainesail

Quote from: SailingJerry on December 02, 2012, 07:29:05 PM
I pulled my heat exchanger, wire brushed the corrosion, ordered new end cap gaskets and zincs from Catalina Direct, and am ready to bring it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned out. Any suggestions for the type(s) of paint to use on it? If I prime it with zinc chromate will that be OK with the heat from the hot water inside?

Jerry

The cold raw water surrounds the hot engine water, which is only about 160 - 185F to begin with.. Just about any spray paint can handle the temp of an HX... I generally use a "high temp" engine paint because I find them pretty durable not necessarily for the temp rating...
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

Les Luzar

I bought Metallic Bronze Engine Paint from Pep Boys (auto parts store) for about $8.95. FYI instead of the Universal Bronze at $31. Just a thought!
Les Luzar
#355    1987
Windshadow
Long Beach, CA

Ron Hill

Jerry : As Mainsail said - temperature is not the problem.

The metallic Bronze spray can from any auto parts store will work. 
Ron, Apache #788

SailingJerry

Thanks for the replies. I didn't know if I needed the zinc chromate to insure that the paint would adhere properly. Ready to cross another project off the to-do list  :D

Jerry
There is NOTHING--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.    Kenneth Grahame

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Jerry, usually when you take the heat exchanger to a radiator shop, the paint will be striped off in the cleaning process so the zinc chromate is still a good idea, then you can use the metalic bronze as a finish coat. Just make sure you don't paint the threaded insert where the zinc anode screws into, it must remain bare metal for the anode to work. I found thae it's also good to tape off all the hose barbs too, a least the ends where the hoses connect but paint the joints.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Hawk

When I took mine in to the radiator shop they renewed it AND painted it...............the least they could do for the price. Ask them and I'll bet they were going to anyway.

Hawk
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Hawk,
Did they mask off the stuff that needed to be masked, did they prime with zinc chromate and did they use the color of finish paint that you wanted or did you maybe provide the paint?

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Hawk

MIke,

Yes...yes...and who cares - it looks way better than it did. And they did it.

Hawk
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35