Battery box configuration

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r_bond

Trinity is a '93 model, with two, Group 27 batteries in the battery compartment immediately in front of the galley.  The cables come up from the bilge area, just in front of the water heater and enter the box via a hole at the lower aft inboard corner of the box.  I'd like to switch over to four Trojan 105s but I'm concerned about keeping acid spills confined to the battery compartment.  The articles/photos I've seen seem to show the batteries just sitting in the compartment which would allow acid leaks to drain into the bilge, given where my cabling enters the compartment.  How have some of you who are using Trojans addressed this concern?
1993 C34
Hull # 1261
Wing Keel, Std. Rig

Stu Jackson

rb, you might start here, reply #14 and Maine Sail's pictres or build your own box or buy one.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7162.0.html

I agree, battery boxes are very good things to have.  That said, I've never seen a battery spill in 30 years.  Others have and the boxes contain the acid.  "What's your boat worth to you?" is the question.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

r_bond

Thanks, Stu!  I did see this posting while I was doing my research.  And I agree with you - I've seldom/never seen or heard of a spill so I may be worrying about nothing, but I'm concerned about even just small amounts seeping from the batteries during charging.  I did just install a new Sterling charger (thanks to MaineSails great review) so maybe I won't experience even that in the future.  I'm considering "plugging" up the existing hole and re-routing the cables in via the top of the compartment, but was hoping to avoid the extra work.
1993 C34
Hull # 1261
Wing Keel, Std. Rig

Ron Hill

#3
r_ : As you can see from the pictures the most important part of the battery box is the bottom.

I have 3 Gp 31 AGMs, one is in a box with a lid the other two are sideways in the bottom half of the box (the lids made it too high); but all are straped down.  

The bottom half and strapping the flooded batteries are the real important items.  Another item to consider is heavy plastic or boots on all of the +positive terminals.  Just in case someone accidentally drops a wrench or metal on the batteries.

My thoughts.  
Ron, Apache #788

John Sheehan

Rusty,

I put in four golf cart batteries to replace the two D-4 s that were origional.  Had to modify the box as did the one shown in reply #14.  You are welcome to come over and take a look to get ideas.  I also totally agree on having a box for the batteries.

John
John Sheehan
Sea Shell
2003 MKII  # 1642
Gulf Breeze, FL

r_bond

Thanks, Ron.  Definitely want some heavy "booties" since likely will have the tops of the batteries exposed.  Any suggestion on what type of paint to use on the new "base"?  What's resistant to acid?

John...yeah, thanks!  I would like to come over and take a look at what you did on SeaShell.  I'll give you a call.

Rusty
1993 C34
Hull # 1261
Wing Keel, Std. Rig

mainesail

Quote from: r_bond on October 07, 2012, 06:49:10 PM
Thanks, Ron.  Definitely want some heavy "booties" since likely will have the tops of the batteries exposed.  Any suggestion on what type of paint to use on the new "base"?  What's resistant to acid?

John...yeah, thanks!  I would like to come over and take a look at what you did on SeaShell.  I'll give you a call.

Rusty

I will often build a custom plywood battery box for the batteries when space is an issue. These boxes are then dropped at my local Rhino liner and coated with spray on pick up truck bed liner inside and out. A lot less expensive in both time and labor than coating with epoxy. He charges me about $25.00 and they look great...

That said 6V batts fit well into group 24 cases and will contain most all of the acid. A Fein multi-master or similar can be used to cut the molded handles off if space is an issue. It is an ABYC requirement to contain acid which on flooded batteries is a must. Only AGM & GEL do not require acid containment boxes.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

r_bond

Thanks Mainesail.  I'll definitely check into those Group 24 boxes.  Sound like that might be just the ticket.  Rusty
1993 C34
Hull # 1261
Wing Keel, Std. Rig

Clay Greene

If you're really concerned about acid spills, why not buy AGMs instead?  No worries about spills, monitoring the flooded cells for water level, or equalizing?  More expensive up front but they will last longer than flooded batteries. 
1989, Hull #873, "Serendipity," M25XP, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Stu Jackson

Quote from: claygr on October 12, 2012, 10:27:31 AM
If you're really concerned about acid spills, why not buy AGMs instead?  No worries about spills, monitoring the flooded cells for water level, or equalizing?  More expensive up front but they will last longer than flooded batteries. 

Not necessarily.

AGMs require very careful maintenance, regular charging up to 100% SOC, and they die catastrophically without warning.

Check out the Electrical 101 in the 101 Topics post.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Clay : Type Batteries are kind of like religion, politics, and anchor choices!!

I've had Gel and AGM batteries for over 20+ years and I have never had a catastrophic failure like having one cell of a flooded battery go dry!! 
If you look at the warranty years you will find that the AGMs usually have a longer period.

A thought   
Ron, Apache #788

John Langford

Hi Rusty
Let us know how the Sterling charger works when you get it up and running.  Are you installing it outside the engine compartment?
Cheers
John
"Surprise"
Ranger Tug, 29S