Winterizing engine

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lazybone

So every application with seals (all transmissions) needs to be completly filled for storage?

How about the engine crank seals?
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

chuck53

I winterize while still in the water, whether I haul for the winter or not.  I only haul every other year.  The easiest way for me, close the thru hull, open up the sea strainer, have wife start the engine while I pour AF into the strainer.  2 gallons and I yell to wife to kill the engine.  Done.

Ron Hill

#17
From the questions, it seems like a bunch of us need to read our boat, engine and transmission manuals.  
Some of the first posts on our web site in the early 1990 were detailed descriptions of how to winterize.  They can be found on the old FAQs and Projects.

Of course you can't fill or need to fill all of the engine crank seals, but Mr Hurth says his transmission should be filled. The seals inside can dry out and the parts inside can corrode with out the oil being splashed on them by running.  
What you do for the first start in the spring is to crank the engine over until the oil pressure alarm stops saying it has oil pressure (with the engine fuel cut off pulled and the raw water thru hull off).  No since in starting an engine that has no lube in the upper part!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

crieders

Does fuel line need to be bled after fuel and racor filter is replaced and if so how?
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

mainesail

#19
Quote from: Stu Jackson on October 05, 2012, 03:37:18 PM
Quote from: lazybone on October 05, 2012, 03:10:00 PM
Why does the trans need to be completly filled?

I have two summer only cars that I do not completly fill.
I have a large lawn tractor that needs no such thing.

I don't get it?

Because the Manual says to do it?

It's to keep the seals lubed when the transmission isn't used for long periods of time.

Also because when the gear boxes are used and "splash lubed" the parts inside the box stay coated and don't corrode or rust or oxidize due to the film of fluid on them. When not in use for long periods the film dissipates off the metals and rust and corrosion can form. When you lay them up for winter and fill them to the rim they won't corrode. These boxes are vented to the atmosphere.

This is the same exact reason you really don't want to leave your wet exhaust hose connected to the engine over the winter. There is moisture in the exhaust that will want to "evaporate" & condensate into the open valves and into the engine cylinder. By sealing the engine off, when warm from winterizing, changing oil etc. you prevent the exhaust system moisture from entering the engine block.

This little step takes about 3-4 minutes... Just because most boat yards don't take the time to do a "complete" engine winterizing does not mean DIY's have to repeat their short comings....


Quote from: Stu Jackson on October 05, 2012, 09:24:00 AM
That's a good list from Maine Sail, but

--- you do NOT need to nor you should remove the glow plugs

--- don't see a need to remove the exhaust hose either


Stu,

Move to an area where it drops to -20f in the winter then we'll talk about fogging the engine and removing the wet exhaust hose.  :thumb:These engines are EXPENSIVE. Doing the above two items will ensure your engine is in good shape come spring. You can spray fogging oil into the intake while turning by hand but the glow plug hole coats the cylinder walls easier. It also ensures that your glow plug connections are good and clean.. Alternatively you can crank your engine over every few weeks with the stop lever pulled to push oil but the fogging oil works well..

Also the suggestion above that 1 gal of PG is enough for an engine can be VERY DANGEROUS.. PG should NOT be diluted. The flow in the HX, strainer etc. is not straight displacement. It mixes due to flow and does not just push out what was in there. This causes dilution of the PG thus requiring more of it. This is why it can take as much as 5 gallons to properly protect an engine for -30F which is what I aim for as a bare min in Maine.

I have measured an M-25 after four gallons and still the burst point was too high for Maine. I use a sight refractometer to check the dilution of the PG..I've seen far to many engines freeze or HX's busted open all due to diluted PG. This spring I did one HX and one strainer due to dilution and last winter was a warm one. I thin the coldest we hit was -7... If you only want to suck 1 gal please be sure to then drain the RWP, HX and strainer after doing so....

I just did a Perkins 4-154 last week that took six gallons before the concentration was not dangerously diluted for our winter temps.
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

Stu Jackson

Thanks, Maine Sail, for that very important correction.  I have lived in an environment where I have not had to winterize our engine, and should not have offered that incorrect advice.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

mainesail

Quote from: Stu Jackson on October 22, 2012, 04:54:51 AM
Thanks, Maine Sail, for that very important correction.  I have lived in an environment where I have not had to winterize our engine, and should not have offered that incorrect advice.

Not necessarily incorrect at all. I just offer some steps that most yards & DIY's don't do that can be rather good/better for the engine..
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

mregan

Trying to get the engine winterized but can't get the engine to start.  Plan to get into it more this weekend when I have more time.  If for some reason I can't get the engine started to draw in the antifreeze, is there a manual way I can pour the antifreeze into the engine or can the water be drained from the engine?

Ron Hill

mre : If you can't get the engine started you can do the following:
1. drain the HX by removing the Zn.
2. drain the muffler  by the petcock
3. drain the raw water pump by removing the impeller
4  and let the output RW pump hose drain
Ron, Apache #788

mregan

Thanks Ron.  If I disconnect the raw water intake and stick the hose in the antifreeze and try to turn over the engine, will trying to turn over the engine suck the antifreeze into it?

mainesail

No... But....

Remove the impeller, replace the cover plate

Disconnect the RW injection hose from the exhaust elbow

Stick this exhaust elbow injection hose in a 5 gal bucket

Connect RW intake hose to a 12V pump

Stick RW intake into bucket of PG AF

Turn on 12V pump

Drain water lift muffler...


Make sure your engine stop lever is not pulled??? Engine should start...
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/