Long Term Storage on the Hard

[Stephen Butler]

We have failed once again to retire and will be relocating to Africa for a few years.  Naturally we had just done a lot of work on our 34...new painted mast and boom, new engine mounts, new deck hardware, new running rigging, some new wiring, work on the non-skid, etc., etc.  Most likely, we will be away from the boat for 2 and possibly 3 years.   The boat is stored on the hard in a great yard in Florida, well strapped down, checked regularly for water in the bilge, and has anti-mold packets added from time to time.  There is also a small solar panel attached to our 4X6V housing batteries and the water levels kept up.  Our concern is whether this is enough?  We have left our boat for periods of up to 5 months (with full fuel and water tanks), and had absolutely no difficulties when relaunching, but 2 to 3 years is another story.  Any thoughts or advice would be a great help.

[Craig Illman]

Stephen - If you had her out in Seattle, I'd sail her for you to keep her from getting rusty or lonely while you're away.

Craig

[Ron Hill]

Steve : I'd call Westerbeke and find out what you need to do to "pickle" the engine/transmission. 
I'd also be worried about ventilation - cause that's when the mildew grows.

I'd empty the water tanks and even consider emptying the fuel tank.  You can always remove the fuel tank and have it cleaned when you get back.   

A few thoughts

[Stephen Butler]

The yard got back to us and have suggested the following for a 3 year lay-up:  drain the water tanks, drain the fuel tank and lines, remove the batteries, "pickle" the engine by removing the injectors and added Marvel oil, thoroughly wash the deck down and shrink wrap the boat (with vents and a zipper to get into the boat, and finally the addition of anti-mold chemicals in the cabins.  Any thoughts of this approach?  Any missed items?  Suggestions welcomed!

[Jim Hardesty]

If your transmission is like mine, the manual calls to be over filled (to the top) for long term storage.  I think that someone needs to get inside on a regular schedule to check for mold, insect, and other problems.  Also, boats get very over packed storing gear in the cabins.  That just adds to the ventilation problem.  May be send the sails to a sail loft and store the cushions and soft gear off the boat.  Make a list of where everything is and what was done.

[Footloose]

My experience with shrink wrap is that you will get mold on the hull under the plastic.  This happens with wrapped boats during the winter.  The humidity is relatively low.  I would think that it would be worse in Florida.  Also, someone should check the bildge after rain as it will come down the mast, if you have a keel stepped rig, and with the batteries out there will not be a way for the boat to empty itself.  We get all of the cushions and other cloth type items off for storage.

[Jim Hardesty]

I think with out a doubt the mast should be down.  Then a good shrink-wrap job will be leak free.  Instist on white, it will keep the temp down inside the boat.  Even up north....vent....vent.....vent.

[Ron Hill]

Steve : It will cost you a few $$, but a custom made cover is breathable and can be used for many many years.  
Still call Westerbeke and ask about long term storage of the engine and transmission.  

I know what the manuals say, but it's worth the check with the manufacturer as they may have some other pointers!!  A few thoughts

[Stu Jackson]

Stephen,

You might want to try www.cruisersforum.com and ask there.  They may have some more of your "long term" issues already researched.

[Stephen Butler]

Well, we have now reached the issue of whether to shrinkwrap or consider purchasing a boat cover per Ron's advice.  We are leaning towards the reusable cover, but have some questions:
1- The cover will be on for both the winter and the summer, in Florida, so venting will be needed to avoid mold...but will mold still be a problem?  Perhaps better to just wash the deck every month or two?  Ideas and opinions?
2- What is a good/cost effective material for a cover?  TopGun? Subrella?  Something else?  Is there a good color or than white?
3- The admiral thinks that the cover should come over the lifeline stantions, but I am concerned about chafe?  Thoughts on this?
Thanks for the help.

[Stu Jackson]

3- The admiral thinks that the cover should come over the lifeline stantions, but I am concerned about chafe?  Thoughts on this?

Stephen, as you know, we don't have to do this, but in reading over the years I recall some folks noting that the stanchions tend to bend if they are used to support the cover.  Although this was due to winter weather and the weight of snow, I would venture to suggest that heavy wind loads or water build-up from Florida storms could do the same damage to the stanchions.  I think their solution was a separate method of support if the cover goes over the stanchions.

[Clay Greene]

I have not seen winter covers that use the stanchions for support.  Most are cut to go around the stanchions so they are exposed.  I have seen some covers that go over the stanchions but they usually have ribbed supports for the cover so the stanchions are not bearing the weight.  The Fairclough cover would be an example of this and is one of the most expensive solutions because of the cost of the frame. 

Mold is going to grow wherever there is sufficient moisture (either in the form of humidity or an active water source), temperatures greater than 55-65 degrees (depending on the amount of moisture in the air), and a food source (which is basically anything porous).  Venting is a solution only if you are bringing in drier air to replace the moist air.  Venting in moist air to replace relatively drier air may create rather than prevent a mold problem.  So, the key is keeping the humidity down inside the boat.  You should look into active dehumidifying agents for the cabin - there are a number of products on the market.  And I would take off anything that is fabric or paper unless it is sealed in an airproof container. 

[Footloose]

I can relate to stanchions being over stressed when used for support for a cover.  The marinas up here make a ridge pole and then shrink wrap right over the stanchions.  After several years of rebedding stanchions in the spring, I bought a cover with a frame that goes over the stanchions.  I have been very happy with it. 

If you choose to shrink wrap the boat I would support the stanchions with something or remove them.  One of our friends had several of them bent.  I hope this was helpful.

[Jim Hardesty]

The price of a good sturdy cover with a good frame is up in the thousands of dollars.  Perhaps the money would be better spent on inside storage.