Starter problem

[Juan]

Hi:


I recently changed the ignition key switch (the old one stopped working) and it has been working fine for about 2 months. Yesterday, however, I tried to start the engine and it did not start. Let me explain the standard procedure that I use and then what happened:

Ï put the key on. Hold key clockwise against the spring to power the glow plugs. Hold key for 20 seconds while buzzer sounding. Release spring pressure, push the start button, and the engine starts. Yesterday, however, I followed the same procedure but when I released the spring pressure and pushed the start button, the engine did not start and the buzzer kept sounding (although in a somewhat lower tone).

I let it rest for 10 minutes thinking that I may have cranked for too long, but the same thing happened. I didn't try letting it rest for longer since I had to leave the boat. I am sure this will be one of the recommendations, and I will try again when I am back in the boat.

But any ideas of whether this could be a bigger problem? Could it be the new ignition key switch (the old one didn't died that way)?  something wrong with the engine? Anything else?

Thanks for your thoughts

Juan

[chuck53]

Same thing happens to me once in a while....
Duh...kill button still engaged!  Push it back in and starts like a champ.

[Stu Jackson]

If the engine turned over (cranked) it's a fuel problem or the kill handle (check both ends).

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

If it worked before you changed the key switch, recheck the connections to the key switch, Was the new one "exactly" like the old one? If not the connections could be different. Worth another look.

Mike

[Ron Hill]

Juan : When you engaged the glow plugs in the spring loaded position, did you note that the voltage dropped about 2 volts? (meaning current is going to the glow plugs).

It sounds like your letting it rest means the starter was turning over the engine.

As suggested, I'd check your connections on the new key switch. (BTW, the continuing buzzing is the NO OIL Pressure alarm)

[Juan]

thaks for the replies.

Mike, the new switch was a bit different than the old one but has been working fine for two months, so it cannot be that I put the conections wrongly. Although I will double check that nothing has been letting loose.

Chuck and Stu, I checked the kill handle and it was all the way down. But, could it still be a problem with the kill handle? If so, could you guys direct me where to check? Also, if it is a fuel problem, how can I check it?

Ron, I didn't pay attention about the voltage.

[Ron Hill]

Juan : If the new switch worked for 2 months, you wired it correctly.
 
When I first got my C34 it was within 2 months that I had to replace the switch - it went bad??  That could be your problem and it's easily checked with an Ohm meter.

On boat electrical parts I try to only buy from a couple companies - Cole Hersee, Ancor and Blue Sea. This junk from China scares me.  

The kill cable line is on the starboard side of the engine and that lever (on the engine) should be all the way forward.

Another thing to check if having starting problems (cranks but won't start ) is to make sure that the decompression lever is not engaged.  It is on the aft end of the valve cover and should be all the way down.

You might want to re-title your post to "Starting Problems", because it seems that your starter is turning the engine over OK.

A few more thoughts    

[scotty]

You might also want to read the link "engine not starting"  
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7061.0.html  

This was a recent thread.

[Stu Jackson]

Ron's right, the kill switch at the engine end is just underneath the throttle cable.  Push back (like pulling on the cable from the cockpit end) and it stops, pull forward it's OK.

Pictures of the engine are in the manuals on the C34 Tech wiki page and also at www.marinedieseldirect.com  (bookmark it).