Cabin Top Leaks Found

[Mike McDonald]

I have tracked down several leaking points on my cabin top.  The worst leaks are coming from under the long teak rails along each side of the main sliding hatch cover.  It looks like I will have to remove the rails after all.  Is it possible to temporarily calk along the top and bottom of each rail until I can pull them off.  I'd rather do it in the fall after sailing season if possible.  Looks like a pretty big job to get the rails off, re-finish them, and re-install with new bedding.  It looks like they may be a little warped as well, lifting just a little off the fiberglass.  Maybe this caused them to pull out in a couple of places near the center of the rail.  Can I use clear silicone (tub & tile calk) to hold it through the summer?  I would appreciate your thoughts and experience in removing and re-bedding the rails if possible as well. 

I also found a couple of the screws leaking under the grab rails on the cabin top.  The long grab rails on either side of the top deck.  Can they be removed by unscrewing from below only, or do you have to drill out the plugs in these as well, in order to remove them.  None of this sounds like a lot of fun. 

Thanks.

[Joe Holmes]

Cannot help you with the rails at the hatch cover, but the hand rails are easily done from inside the cabin on my 88 Mk1.  No need to drill those plugs out.  A combination of screws and acorn nuts.

[Stu Jackson]

Mike, handrails get removed from below.  do NOT push up on the bolts, since they are the ones under the bungs above.  DO push up on the screws ONLY.  Then you never have to deal with the bungs.

[Jim Hardesty]

I've had problems with silicon sealer, works OK but the when I try to redo the new sealer just doesn't adhear where the silicon was.  Old porus gelcoat is the worst.
If the cracks are small try "Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure".

[Joe Holmes]

I used butyl rubber from Mainesail to seal them again.  So far no leaks.  Less than a year since the work was done.

[Stu Jackson]

Like this:  http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172

[Mike McDonald]

Once again, thanks for the great feedback.  I did buy 4 rolls of the butyl tape from Mainesail in the spring to re-bed my chain plates and other fittings.  It works great.  I will avoid the silicone calk, even as a temporary fix. I don't look forward to removing the teak rails along the hatch cover, but when I do, I will definitely use the butyl tape to re-bed.  It sounds like the grab rails aren't too bad to remove and re-attach. I'll re-finish them while I have them off.  Thanks again everyone.
Mike....

[Ron Hill]

Mike : In the mid 1990s I wrote a note in the Mainsheet Tech notes on how to tighten up the hand rails.

You can easily tighten both the screws and the bolts from the inside.  No need to remove the teak plug.
On the bolts remove the acorn finishing nuts.  Then take a hack saw and cut a slot in the end of the bolt.  Place a common screw driver in the slot to hold the bolt from turning, then take an open or box end wrench to tighten the nut.  That just might be enough to stop the leak!!

As Stu says - there is no boat problem that can't be solved!  
Ron's add - In the past 20+ years & 1800+ hulls, most C34 problems have already been solved!!
   
A few thoughts  

[Mike McDonald]

Thanks Ron.  I'll give that a try on the grab rails. Then I'll have to tackle the much bigger problem of the long rails on either side of the cabin top hatch sliding cover.  That's where I have the worst leaks, traveling down into the dorade vent holes.  Thanks again.
Mike.....

[Kirk Garner]

I would like to remove mine also for refinishing and resealing but have found that several of the nuts are frozen to the studs and the whole stud turns. Anybody have a trick for removing these without having to drill out the plugs? The screws all come out of course.

Thanks, Kirk

[Ted Pounds]

Hi Kirk,
See Ron's post that is two above yours...   

[Kirk Garner]

O...... doit! Thanks Mike (and Ron)!