Electrical Upgrades

[Kevin Henderson]

Eric,

Your Electrical system is almost identical to my layout.  (and I love your Visio drawing you used)  Although I most recently decided against new AGMs and went with flooded batteries instead.  
Much to Stu's chagrin   I also have the Blue Seas switch.  It was there when I bought the boat and I have learned to live with it.  
As for the electrical panel layout, I am very happy with the way my electronics are installed.  I have a separate A/C panel on the left and the DC panel on the right of the switch.  
My battery monitors, Stereo and VHF are all mounted above in place of the standard sliding cabinets.  I like the layout and so far is very serviceable and allows for expansion if I ever need it, albeit at the price of some cabinet space.  

[Stu Jackson]

Here's my update schematic which hopefully incorporates the correct updates from all of the helpful feedback. If this is right, the only thing I have left to buy is the new 30 AMP AC breaker and find room on my limited panel space. I also need to figure out how to build a base for the starter battery to be located in the aft cabin along the lines of what has been posted elsewhere on this site. Thanks.

Some comments as requested,

1.   Regulator/Alternator – call the connection between the regulator and the alternator the harness.  It will have a number of wires.  You can see the old and new here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4548.0.html.  Add an engine ground from the alternator (-).  OEMs are case grounded, but you'll need a new separate ground from the new alternator.

2.  Wire labeling – Name the wires, too, it'll be a lot easier to label them both on the drawing and in the field when you do the installation.  For example, call the alternator output AO.

3.  Echo charger – check to see if it needs a ground, too.

4.  House Bank "Box" on diagram – I suggest you clarify the 4 post bus bars.  Call the left one NDP (negative distribution post) and draw the actual four landing posts vertically instead of horizontally and show the actual wires landing on the bus – it's a good way to draw it and even more reflective of what you'd see in the field on the boat.  Landing on that bar are: the I/C , the monitor shunt, and the engine ground, so one "free" post, right?  Same thing on the other side:  PDP (positive DP), there:  Bank 1 output to 1-2-B switch, AO, I/C charger input/inverter output (I/O), and echo charger (EC).  That uses up all four, but you show the always on connected to a wire, rather than to the bus bar.  Connect it to the bus bar, not "along" the wire from the EC.  You can load two things on one of the posts.  The way you show it is incorrectly double fused.

5.  1-2-B Switch – You've drawn this in an overcomplicated manner, I think.  The clearest way I've seen to show it is here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4949.msg30170.html#msg30170  That's because the C post lands both the starter and DC house loads on one post.

6.  The DC Distribution panel needs a ground to the NDP.

7.  Existing AC Main breaker – you correctly show three wires.  If you only have a hot breaker, then show the neutral and ground going to the terminal strips glued to the hull, not the breaker. 

8.  I/C  AC Side – Looks like you now have that correctly shown.  Good job.

9.  I/C  DC Side – Don't understand the DC disconnect on the I/C charger/inverter IO, it appears to be unnecessary.  You should have a remote panel with your Freedom.  Otherwise there may be switches on the unit.  I'll go look it up.  Can you explain this disconnect or why you feel you need it.

10.  What do you need to find room for on your panel?

Looks like a well designed system.  I humbly say that, 'cuz it's just like mine!   

[efiste]

I will admit that I am mostly going for the general concept with all the different parts without trying to show every detail, but clearly grounds, etc. are important as well. Some of the alignment and choice of objects/labels are limited due to using Visio and trying to keep things readable. Nevertheless, I truly appreciate all feedback and do not want to get it wrong or lead anyone else astray.

For the PDP, NDP, and shunt, where are yours mounted? In the battery box, I assume. Where? I am envisioning some space limitations there. Did you use a piece of wood epoxied to the fiberglass to mount them to?

As for the DC disconnect, I thought it would be good (maybe suggested) to have a way to disrupt the DC power to the C/I with a disconnect if needed... like if I needed to service the unit or it was on fire ;-( Maybe this is not needed, and the Xantrex manual specifically suggests not using a battery isolator due to voltage drop.

I looked at some galvanic isolators and was disappointed (but not surprised) that they cost almost 50% of the price of the C/I. I understand what they are needed for, but I am wondering if in my case it is really needed. I keep my boat on a mooring 95% of the time. At most, I have shore power connected for a weekend and for a week once a year. That's why the battery and alternator upgrade is going to be such a great improvement. Also, I am in freshwater. If the recommendation is a resounding yes, I will spend the money. I do not want to damage my boat with galvanic corrosion due to this upgrade. I am wondering, though, if it is really a priority for me. Oh, and I don't know where I will find room to put it!

Below are 2 pictures of my nav desk to give you an idea of what I am working with. I need to fit a Blue Seas System Monitor (planned to go to the right of the legacy Link monitor) and the new Double Pole AC Main. I'll figure it out, I guess. I was just not planning on another thing to mount. Maybe I will have to build some more mounting space.

I am glad you like the design, Stu. It was mostly based on yours and the detailed posts, discussions of others on the C34 website!!!

Eric

[Stu Jackson]

1.   For the PDP, NDP, and shunt, where are yours mounted? In the battery box, I assume. Where? I am envisioning some space limitations there. Did you use a piece of wood epoxied to the fiberglass to mount them to?

2.  As for the DC disconnect, I thought it would be good (maybe suggested) to have a way to disrupt the DC power to the C/I with a disconnect if needed... like if I needed to service the unit or it was on fire ;-( Maybe this is not needed, and the Xantrex manual specifically suggests not using a battery isolator due to voltage drop.

3.  I looked at some galvanic isolators and was disappointed...

4.  Below are 2 pictures of my nav desk to give you an idea of what I am working with. I need to fit a Blue Seas System Monitor (planned to go to the right of the legacy Link monitor) and the new Double Pole AC Main. I'll figure it out, I guess. I was just not planning on another thing to mount. Maybe I will have to build some more mounting space.

Eric,

Consider these:

1.  My PDP is in the battery box.  I only have two batteries in there.  It's a Power Post Plus on starboard wall screwed or bolted directly into the fiberglass.  You could also put it on the outboard side of the box aft of the water tank, there's some space in there if your battery box is full, just drill some holes.  My NDP in the space where the door to the water heater opens, forward end.  A Power Post.  Be creative???

2.  Battery isolators are a completely different thing than a switch.  Don't use either, you need neither.

3.  Waste of time based on your operational description.

4.  The purpose of the new incoming AC breaker is to put it within 10 feet of the shorepower inlet.  Conisder just doing everything BUT this and you'll have a working system and can find a place for it later.  It simply doesn't belong at the nav station, you already have a breaker there, the existing one.     There ya go, no nav station issues anymore.  Wow.  

Step-by-step, do one thing at a time and test it first before you go any further.  Then you'll know what it is if something doesn't work.

[mainesail]

I looked at some galvanic isolators and was disappointed (but not surprised) that they cost almost 50% of the price of the C/I. I understand what they are needed for, but I am wondering if in my case it is really needed. I keep my boat on a mooring 95% of the time. At most, I have shore power connected for a weekend and for a week once a year.

Not a critical item for your practical use. I assumed, like many others, you were at a dock. 

[efiste]

Thanks once again to everyone's help. I will probably hold off on the galvanic isolator until my use of the boat changes. For posterity, attached is the final diagram of what I am planning to install. If I make any other changes along the way or have other suggestions on how to improve, I will update and post again. I could not have done this without a lot of great help from forums like this.

Eric