Soda Blasting

[Footloose]

It is past time to have the bottom stripped and apply barrier coat and new paint.  I am considering having the bottom soda blasted as it appears to be faster, cheaper and better than grinding or chemical strippers.  There were a few post about this a couple of years ago, some positive, some negative.  I am just wondering want the experience has been since then and what to look out for.  Like so many things I am sure the operator experience plays a big role.

[Analgesic]

Practical Sailor just did a big write up on it several months back they made  it sound great, start to finish in a matter of hours.  Somebody at my boat yard did it this Winter and the results look much better thant the chemically stripped boats.  I plan to do my boat next Winter. 
Brian McPhillips

[Ron Hill]

David : Soda blasting it the way to go.

After you get all the old paint cleaned off, I'd put on a couple of coats of contrasting color barrier coat and one coat of contrasting color hard bottom paint.  Then a contrasting color ablative (and ablative from then on).  When you see the hard bottom color coming thru - then it's time to paint again!!  A few thoughts

[Footloose]

The current plan is to launch in about a week and a half, sail for the summer,  have it soda blasted in the fall, and then let it dry out over the winter.  In the spring I will barrier coat in and the use VC17.  The cold fresh water up here is low fouling and VC 17 is supposed to be faster through the water than a bare hull.  What do the fresh water sailer think of VC17?

[Stu Jackson]

VC17 has a very good reputation, this from Lake Michigan sailors.

I used to think varying color bottom painting was a great idea, and had seriously considered it.

Eventually I learned that a coat and a half of bottom paint in my "neighborhood" lasts for over three years.

And I find out the condition of the bottom from my diver who does the hull (and zincs as required) quarterly.

[Jim Hardesty]

VC17m works great in Lake Erie.  Never needs scraping and little sanding.  Takes me 3 cans per coat and less than 2 hrs after prep.  Shop around, WM price is $63, locally it's $50.  I usually paint every year, and double coat the leading edges.  Looks good after our short season, 1500nm is a good year for me.  I use a roller, a very good smooth finish nap, and a real 2" brush, also a metal roller pan.  I have used the same painting tools for many years.  I don't clean them up.  Next use I just pour denatured alcohol into the pan and get the roller and brush working again.  Stir before adding the copper, then stir and stir some more, stir and shake every time you pour from the can.  Some guys use an airless sprayer, works good, but I'm concerned with breathing the spray.  Also consider tyvex?sp coveralls, can be reused season after season, I need them cause I'm a sloppy painter.  Last thought, the winter dry out seems to be tough on the paint, just cause it looks good in the fall, reevaluate in the spring.
Hope this helps.
Jim

[Ted Pounds]

I loved VC17 (on Lake Michigan) and it definitely improved speed.  FWIW I had mine corn-blasted (similar to soda).  I used VC-Tar for the barrier coat.  Pricey, but I was very pleased with the results.