weeping rudder

[crieders]

Old topic. I finally decided to do something about the half dollar size rust spot on the rudder. The fellow I am working with on the project wants to grind down the spot, drain the water, and refiberglass the area. Can someone please send me the photos of what the rudder looks like on the inside; how it is constructed? I have a 1990 boat, #1022. Thanks very much

[Craig Illman]

Cliff - This drawing in the Wiki probably shows you what you're looking for: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Rudder_Removal

Craig

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : Now that you seen the rudder in Craig's post, you need to drill several holes in the rudder to let all of the water drain out.

Hopefully your boat is positioned so the rudder gets sun for most of the day to help it dry out.  I would have recommended that you drill the holes in November to give it more time to dry out as we've stated in numerous posts.

After you get the inside dryed out - you've accomplished nothing unless you drop the rudder (a few inches) grove out the material where the stainless column enters the layup and reseal that area with 3M5200. 

A few thoughts

[crieders]

Where does the rudder post access? In the rear locker?

[Clay Greene]

Can I just say how much I dislike the design of the rudder on the Mark I boats?  I am now fixing this for the third time because the bead of 5200 failed.  I am going to dig out the fiberglass even farther down the rudder post and hope that the third time is the charm.  It is almost enough to get me to spend the $2500 on the foam-filled new rudder from Catalina.  Very frustrating. 

[Stephen Butler]

We had a few spots on our MkI rudder that were "weeping" and went through the drilling, draining, drying-out, and resealing process and thought the problem solved.  We went a couple of years with no apparant problems and forgot about the issue.  Then came hurricane Wilma and our boat went over on the hard, breaking the rudder and exposing the metal core.   The core was completely corroded and close to failure.  We subsequently replaced the rudder, getting the new elliptical one from Catalina.  The new rudder made an enormous improvement in handling and we do not worry about loosing steerage.  By all means keep working on your MKI rudder, but think you will eventually go the new one.  Good luck.

[Stu Jackson]

Then there's Ron's big rudder project:

http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-rudder-modification.htm

[Clay Greene]

The ooze coming out one of the top holes appears to be more corroded mild steel than water so we have bit the bullet and ordered the new rudder from Catalina.  $2517 FOB, in case anyone is wondering what a new one costs.  Still less expensive than a new C355, I keep telling myself. 

Does this now qualify us as a Mark 1.5 or do I have to cut an opening in the transom as well? 

[Les Luzar]

Post pictures of the new rudder when you get it, and any issues you have mounting it. Thanks for the updated pricing.