Questions & Reflections on numero 1 season

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hinmo

My first year with my 1989 Cat 34 M1 is coming to an end (earlier than normal here in the Northeast due to work obligations and travel.

1) Need to reduce Sail power: I believe I have a tall rig, not a std as the PO told me. I have a 135 head, and a new main. With the tall rig and 135, it seems to be almost always too much sail for Buzzards Bay (prevailing 18-22 kt winds). I have occasionally reefed the main, that helps. But with the old, original Hood 915 roller furler, I have been hesitant to reef the jib. Does anyone have any positive stories on reefing the jib with the 915? Or should I downsize the jib to a 110 next year OR invest in a new furler and use current 135?

2) Hot Water: How long does it take everyone to get hot water when under power....I've found somewhere around 30 mins running the engine at temp. Maybe I need a new hot water heater?

3) Looking into investing in a Bimini. I am a solid 6'2, and it appears the boom at rest with sail up is about 6'1. I will be crouched slightly at the helm with a Bimini presuming it must clear the boom. I am not sure that will be comfortable, but there is no alternative?

Overall a great introductory season. The boat sails well and provides comfort above and below decks. Wish the season was not so short!
Thanks
Kestrel, 1989

Steve McGill

Hinmo,

Just my own observations....................

Sail area, you are close with those winds, additionally if you have any gusts need to account for those.
Bimini, I am 6'4", I had mine built so that it end 6" before the end of the boom, this provides plenty of shade. My water heater takes about 20 minutes to reach a hot temperature after the engine starts. Assuming you have no air lock in the lines to the heater it sounds within range to me.

Enjoy your boat

Steve
CLARITY 1988 #588 TRWK (sold 8/2023 after 17 yrs)
Chesapeake, Herring Bay, MD

Ken Juul

Your water temp and ambient temp of the boat is going to be colder than folks that sail further south.  30 minutes sounds about right.

I too fought with the 915 for too many seasons.  The upgrade to the Sea Furl 5 (235) this year has been wonderful.  Much easier to furl/unfurl and total control of sail size. Very affordable with the Hood's returning owner discount.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

hinmo

Ken & Steve - thanks for the quick responses. A little clarity on my part.....furling with the old system works fine, I am concerned about reefing with the 915.

Yes, a bimini that ends short of the boom seems plausible....the canvas guy is coming to my haul out tomorrow to measure prior to removing boom/mast.

Ken - who/how do I inquire about Hoods returning customer program? Did you rig it yourself or use a rigger?

Thanks
Kestrel, 1989

Marshall Tonner

I have a wing keel and standard mast and use 110 head sail in early part of summer and in the fall when winds are stronger. The 110 is easier to tack and you won't notice much loss of speed. With a reef in the main she'll stay on her feet in 20 knots.I also have the Seafurl upgrade which I purchased from our local Hood dealer. Upgrade is an undersatement!
Marsh
Holland Marsh    Hull #899   Cormarant II

hinmo

Marshall - thanks. I would prefer to do either one or the other for financial reasons: put a new 110 on the current 915, or keep the 135 but put her on a new roller furler....which way to go?
Kestrel, 1989

Ken Juul

#6
I understand the reefing concerns.  I had my 155 reefed about half way, buried my bow in a wave getting the furling drum wet and watched as the sail slowly unreefed itself.  Thankfully it was slow not bang.  After that it was either full in or full out.

I ordered mine from Hood in Tampa.  (813) 885-2182. The receptionist will pass you on the the sales lady, can't remember her name, knows her stuff.  Just tell her you heard about the returning owner discount and want to upgrade to the SF5 Model 235.

Excellent install instructions, I did it myself with the mast on the boat.

If it were my choice I would do the furler this year and a new sail next year.  How long until the bearings in the 915 decide to give up the ghost?
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

hinmo

....hmm. maybe bite the bullet and do both? I just talked to a large internet sail company, Rolly Tasker 110 jib would be around $1350.

Add that to the new furler ($1100?) and head stay ($300?)

....yikes
Kestrel, 1989

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Hinmo,
The secret of the 915 continuous line furler is to cleat both ends of the furling line as tight as possible, this may not work 100% of the time when reefing but it's the best you can do with the 915.

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Stu Jackson

#9
Quote from: hinmo on September 15, 2011, 04:49:58 AM

1) Need to reduce Sail power: I believe I have a tall rig, not a std as the PO told me. I have a 135 head, and a new main. With the tall rig and 135, it seems to be almost always too much sail for Buzzards Bay (prevailing 18-22 kt winds). I have occasionally reefed the main, that helps. But with the old, original Hood 915 roller furler, I have been hesitant to reef the jib. Does anyone have any positive stories on reefing the jib with the 915? Or should I downsize the jib to a 110 next year OR invest in a new furler and use current 135?

2) Hot Water: How long does it take everyone to get hot water when under power....I've found somewhere around 30 mins running the engine at temp. Maybe I need a new hot water heater?

3) Looking into investing in a Bimini. I am a solid 6'2, and it appears the boom at rest with sail up is about 6'1. I will be crouched slightly at the helm with a Bimini presuming it must clear the boom. I am not sure that will be comfortable, but there is no alternative?

1.  Tall rig vs standard:  measure the stick based on the manuals.  You'll need to know when having new sails made anyway.  Catalina Yachts may know, too, can't hurt to call and ask 'em what their records show for your hull #.  Ever since the boats were made, 15-18 knots was reef the mainsail time, regardless of rig size, unless or even if you were racing.  Given the input, three options: I'd try using the furler to reef the jib as suggested, or do the Hood swap.  When we bought our boat it had an old CDI furler.  I couldn't get the jib down.  I saved my $$ up for over a season and bought a new ProFurl.  We do, however, run two different jibs based on the season:  windy summer 85%, calmer winter 110%.  If you don't want to swap jibs, you could consider a 120% as a good compromise, you won't lose much.  You might also consider trying a used jib.

2.  30 minutes or longer sounds right.  Anything shorter you'll get some hot water, but not much, or it'll just be a little warm.  As a reminder, don't leave it on all the time when you're plugged in - 15 minutes will give you plenty of hot water.

3.  Don't know.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ted Pounds

Actually the main is the first thing you want reef.  That reduces weather-helm and make the 34 much easier to control.  I would only reef the jib when the wind started pushing upper 20's and that's with a 150.  Also to hold  a reef in the continuous-line furler you need to get BOTH sides of the line good and tight.
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

scotty

I have to agree about reefing the main.  In 15 knot wind I'm close to wanting to reef - the boat sails more comfortably.  In 20+ winds if I don't reef, the boat looses speed due to excess heeling, and moves around all over the place, whether or not the jib is furled.  Put in a reef and the boat settles right down - the furling of the jib controls the force of the rig, driving the boat forward.  In 20+ winds, with no reef, I have to let the main out to settle the boat.  That works out OK, but a reef is easier for control, especially if the wind continues to build.  What I'd really like is an in-boom furling system so that I can reef or unreef easily as I single-hand.  Ohhhhh.
Scotty

waterdog

Quote from: scotty on September 15, 2011, 06:26:19 PM
  What I'd really like is an in-boom furling system so that I can reef or unreef easily as I single-hand.  Ohhhhh.

How is your reefing set up now?   

With some upgrades to the deck organizers and cheek blocks you can get pretty close to reefing nirvana.   We have two reefing positions with all lines lead to cockpit and it is about as easy as in boom furling:   1) Drop halyard to a mark 2) Pull tack line taught and drop it in a jamming cleat  3) winch a clew line tight  4) snug halyard  and it's done.  Doesn't give you the infinite variability of in boom, but it's a whole lot cheaper and less complicated.    (Does require an autopilot...)

Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

scotty

#14
Yeah!  Right now I have to go up to the deck to reef - not good for me when I single-hand.  I just got enough "boat bucks" to convert to the system you are describing.  Should be done in a week or two (have to do some honey-do's first!). (one of the honey-do's is to put on stern rail seats!!)   :santa    I've also just completed one year with our Catalina 34.  Love the boat!!
Scotty