Best packing gland tool

[crieders]

I bought one tool at West's Marine that works well for the nut but can anyone suggest the right size and type tool for the gland. A regular wrench is rounding off the edges and it makes me nervous. Thanks

[Stu Jackson]

Just an adjustable one.  Cliff, both nuts are hard, they won't break.  Two adjustable tools work wonders.  You already have one, get an adjustable one for the packing gland nut and you'll be able to do it. 

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : Look on page 622 of the West Marine catalog for your adjustable packing gland wrench.  You can also buy an identical one in a hardware store for 1/2 the price!!
Just make sure that you use some penetrating oil on those 2 nuts and let it soak for a day or two, before you try to break them apart.     A thought. 

[crieders]

I have one of those now and wanted another not for the tightening nut but for the gland but with more leverage. I thought perhaps that an ordinary pipe wrench would do. Thanks for the suggestions

[Jeff Kaplan]

a pipe wrench will definately do the job and you will get the leverage with the longer handle. i keep one of each on board. sometimes, a little persuasion with a hammer helps also. saw a mechanic use one to just start a really stubborn nut, hit on the flats....jeff

[Ken Juul]

Careful with the extra leverage.  Remember that the packing gland is held on to the shaft log by hose clamps on the black flex hose.  Don't want to be twisting it loose.  Once you get it adjusted the jam nut just needs to be snug, not bar tight to hold the packing nut in place.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Large channel lock pliers also work very well.

[frankr]

After you get it apart shear some anti seize goo on the theads betore resassembly - it will greatly help the next time you want to adjust it.

[Stu Jackson]

I agree with Frank and recommend Lanocote on both threads and in the faces between the lock nut and gland nut.

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

What's the best way to clean the packing gland nuts? I can adjust mine OK but they are mostly green and nasty looking. I will coat them with lanocote afterwards.

[Stu Jackson]

Mike

I just used a bronze wire brush.  Looks gnarlier than it really is.   

I've heard tell anhyrous lanolin also is a good coating to prevent rust (green) from returning, but the Lanocote works, too, just as well for that application (no pun intended - yeah, right )!

[Ron Hill]

Cliff : You should ONLY use a wrench that will not round the edges!!  More leverage get a pipe on thew wench handle!! 
To clean the nut and make it shinny use some Line -a- Way.  Then if you grease the hell out of the clean threads and the nut, it'll never turn green again & stay lubed.  A thought   

[Randy and Mary Davison]

I rent a 1 7/8 inch open ended wrench at my local rental outfit on the way to the boat.  It's about 2 feet long and is useful for self defense as well as unlocking the packing gland.  I put the West Marine adjustable on the gland so it turns against the bottom of the boat and then give a gentle tug on the big wrench.  Rental fee is $7.  Seems silly for a 15 second task but it beats all the fooling around, soaking, and waiting I did before.

Randy

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The only reason that I mentioned "soaking in penetrating oil" is for glands that have not been apart in recent years and have been dripping salt water.
Once you get it apart, repack with the Gore drippless packing.  (See MANY previous posts or projects for the Gore packing).  Get rid of that corrosive, smelly salt water!!   

[Tom Lanzilli]

I repacked with the Gore dripless packing at the beginning of last season.  I have not had a drip since, would highly recommend this material.  Here is some info on it: http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html