sulfer smell in main cabin under power

[Gene Regan]

has anyone  ever experienced somewhat of a sulfer smell in main cabin while under power?I've checked engine and only smell the usual deisel engine smell ive smelled in all other boats , batteries dont appear to be emitting any smell either and it for sure not the head, cant seem to pin it down ,  any ideas on this would be appreciated. im thinking exhaust but too sure as no leaks are apparent in area on engine compt. or adhoining areas.

thanks
gene

gene regan

[Gary Wilson]

We had wht I thought was a mild exhaust smell while under power, kind of a sulpher smell.  I installed a CO alarm to see if it would go off, and it did not.
    Finally determined that it was engine blow-by.  Our engine has 3300 hours on it.  I routed a clear vinyl tube from the crankcase vent to the intake of the air cleaner and the smell has gone away.

[Dave Emery]

If the batteries are being over charged you will experience that smell. You might want to check the charging voltage when the engine is running. I had the same smell and checked the alternator output, it was at 16 volts, way to high. I installed a new regualator and the smell was gone. Do it soon before you cook your batteries.

Good Luck,
Dave

[Gene Regan]

Dave thank you,
The smell was from batteries, balmar regulator prior owner installed was set for gel batteries and needed to be reset for fluid type.adjustment was time consuming , required engine operation and load testing while chargeing but I think I've got it correct now, batteries were being charged at a rate over 16.85 volts and boiling as a result, fortunatly none were damaged,and regulator seems fine for now . Now only have to figure out why tach only works when altenator kicks on as regulator senses charge of batteries is needed, when regulator is in no charge mode tachometer does not work but as soon as voltage drops in batteries and regulator senses it altenator cylces on and engine load increases and tach works. Oh well tomorrow we'll tackle that one.I'll post results as i get them. Thank for setting me on the right track.
Gene Regan
Nonsense 713 in NJ.

gene regan

[SteveLyle]

16.85v isn't correct for any battery type.  Actually, Gel's need a lower charging voltage than wet batteries - if they 'boil' they're toast.

BTW - I can program my Balmar (612) with the key on but the engine off.  I'm going to wire it with a dpst switch so I can get the ability to power it (and so program it) without the key on at all (avoiding the 'clicking' of the fuel pump) or turn it off completely if I ever run into alternator problems.

[Stu Jackson]

Gene

My understanding is that the tach runs from the alternator, not from anywhere else on the engine itself, and the tach will only be running when the alternator field wiring is "excited" and is given the signal that it needs to charge, since the alternator output is also the input to the tach.  

No alternator output, no input to the tach.

If your regulator, even if it is a Balmar, is turning the alternator completely off, that's why you're not getting any tach readings.

If you were overcharging at that high voltage, it could be the equalization setting on the regulator.

Ron's suggestions to get a three stage regulator is reasonable, in that it provides the bulk, absorbtion and float stages, so in float you're always getting some charge to the batteries, hence, the tach will continue operate without interruption.

On our old boats, with just the OEM regulators, the alternator's always "putting out," so no tach problems.

It could be that the Balmar regulator you do have may not be a smart three stage regulator (don't know how old it is, but Balmar started the smart regulation concept on regulators, so it SHOULD be a three stage), or it may not be functioning properly if it is a smart regulator, or it could be set on the high voltage equalization setting.

It would be a good idea to check out the operation of your regulator in all three phases.  Do you still have the manual?

To do that, you'd have to drain your batteries down to say 60% by leaving a 10 amp load on overnight, then take the boat out on the water, rather than idling at 1500 rpm in the slip.  

Since the batteries now need a bulk charge, you should be reading high amps and volts.  As they come up to a 75% to 80% charge, then the amps should reduce while maintaining the 14.4 +/- voltage.  Eventually, when fully charged, the charging voltage should drop to 13.3, and stay there in "float" mode.  The West Marine Advisor on Smart Battery Charging has those voltages listed for both gel and wet cells.

When you said the batteries were being charged at 16.85 volts, it doesn't sound to me like the difference between gel and wet cell settings. It sounds like the regulator was set for equalization mode, which is a controlled, deliberate overcharge that should be performed on wet cells periodically, never on gels.

Please check to make sure the equalization setting is OFF.  Once you do that, you may have NO problems.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Best regards,

Stu

[Gene Regan]

Dear Stu, My regulator is a balmar ars III and has float,and bulk voltage and absorption time, there  are 3 screws that were sealed with paint, so i remover=d paint and have attempted to set limits as per instuuctions found on the boat but dont think ive done it correctly as  tach does not work, i think regulator needs to be adjusted in such a way as to have altenator come on and still only allow the amount of charge voltage needed or is it set in such a way as altenator is engaged and regulatot only delivers as needed the voltage to charge, it is confusing,and not being able to do things with electrical repairs beyound lightbulbs i need some advise.
If you have any suggestions i would be grateful
thanks to you and eveyone else for the ideas

gene regan

gene regan

[Gene Regan]

Dear Stu ,
You mention equalization setting to off , how is that accomplished, checking balmar ASRIII instructions i saw no reference to an equalization setting
thanks again
gene

gene regan

[Stu Jackson]

Gene

The instructions for your unit can be found at  http://www.balmar.net/PDF/ARS-3manual.pdf

This may be the same information you have on your boat.

You're right, there is no equalization phase on this regulator.  It was a try, but looking at the instructions, you're right.  Some regulators do have this feature, to allow the alternator to do an equalization, for instance, no shore power, ever, and just the engine.

Best I can suggest from where I am and your description is to follow the "Common System Problems" troubleshooting on page 2.

I still suggest you drain your batteries as I described earlier today to make sure the unit is cycling through its three phases. Based on the instructions, to adjust the volatges, the lower float voltage "can only be adjusted down if the batteries are in a slightly discharged state."  You have to cut the shorepower and drain them down a bit, at the very least.

Also, you were right in wiping of the "paint" from the screws since the instructions mention that they come with a protective coating.  They suggest you use a sealant to recover the pots once you're done.

Other than wiring and connections and ground, what you can adjust are the float voltage adjustments, max voltage adjustment and absorption time, preset for two hours.  

I'd also check the white stator tach feed from the regulator to the alternator and then to the tach itself.  I'd remove and check each connection, even if they "look" good.

This kinda brings us back to where you started: the tach doesn't work, sometimes.  Again, try draining your batteries.  If you're plugged in all the time, your batteries ARE topped off, and you'll need to turn a DC load, like the fridge and some lights, on to do the checkout.  Once the float time is done, based on the timer settings, the alternator WILL go OFF.  Try increasing the float timing to the max of 5 hours and then to the minimum and see what happens.

Sometimes, just moving the screws loosens things up and things start working.

I still don't understand how you were getting 16.85 volts charging, since it doesn't have equlaization.  Checking the voltages based on the installation guide is the first step.

Ron may be right in terms of having it sent back to Balmar, either for a checkout (which you be able to have done locally) or an ugrade/swap, only time will tell.

We don't call it VooDoo electrics for nothing!!! :rolleyes:

Keep in touch.

Best regards,

Stu

[This message was edited by Stu Jackson #224 1986 "Aquavite" on October 13, 2002 at 09:32 PM.]

[Stu Jackson]

Gene

try following this thread, too:

http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pview.tpl?sku=2002286172831.1&forumabr=ms&fno=24

[Ted Pounds]

Gene,

If your regulator was charging at over 16 volts and it doesn't have an equilization mode there may be a problem with it.  Even if you have the voltage down now, the proplem may still be there and may be related to your tach problem. You might want to have your regulator checked out to see if something internal has blown.  Just a thought.

Ted

[Gene Regan]

To all who  replied ,
I'm going to stay on boat nxt few days and will do drain off bateries and then reevaluate situation, and then will get back to all with results then,I thank you all again for you support and am truley thrilled to be part of such a caring and supportive association folks like you are the solutions to all the worlds problems
again thanks
Gene Regan
713 in nj

gene regan