Hatch over the dinette

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captran

I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has replaced the hatch over the dinette.  I was sailing downwind in the vicinity of Tropical Storm Cristobal this summer and the main sheet  line caught on the hatch in an accidental jibe.  (yeah, stupid, I know!)   The starboard back hinge bent so that there is about a quarter of an inch gap on the right aft side.  Using a C clamp and wood bracing I tried to bend the hinge back down, with little to no effect, so I am thinking of replacing the hatch.  Has anyone done it?  difficulty rating?  Should I order the hatch direct from Catalina, or West or ??  any input, as always, is greatly appreciated.

Red

I replaced my hatch with a Lewmar Ocean series.  It is a drop-in change and not difficult at all.  I also replaced the v-berth hatch with their Ocean Series. The v-berth hatch was not an exact fit and required more work but both are much stronger than the originals.

captran

thanks guys.  guess it's time to dive into the catalogues.  I'm over 3000 miles from the boat and order things in the winter and install after June re launching.  Makes it tough with a time crunch, but work and play have firm timelines.  wish I were closer so I could do these things prior to vacation time.  Sounds like this should be doable.  would you recommend regular caulk or 5200?  best source for the ocean series hatches?  Thanks

jentine

I use 4200.  It cures in one day and has the same qualities as 5200.
Jim Kane

captran

4200?  guess I need to look around.  never remember seeing it.  like the idea of an quicker cure.(last summer one of the galley sink drain pipes developed a leak where it connects.  On mine when they built it it looks like they just caulked the white flange to the black plastic screw on piece.  I ended up using 5200 and clamping it for 5 days to cure before reinstalling it.)  good point about if it's permanent.  But I sure hope I never make the jibe mistake again.(the hatch will always be closed!)  thanks again!

Stu Jackson

Randy

Defender should have it.  4200 is a 3M product.  You also have the choice of plain old sealant, which would make it much easier to remove it in the future if you ever had another leak.  I guess the 4200/5200 vs sealant is a philosphical issue in boating.  I figure the only thing I want glued, screwed and tatooed (with 4200 or 5200) is the hull to deck joint.  All the rest gets sealant (or Lanocote for dissimilar metals).

I couldn't remove my hatch at all two years ago, and did a careful bead around it.  It's leaking a bit again, so here I go again.  OTOH, Cuck Hughes, who has #223, one boat older than ours, had the same problem and his hatch popped right out for him.  Don't remember what he used to rebed it.

Good luck, go beat the rainy season.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

calewis

I tried to remove my hatch and found out real fast, it did not want to come out. I siliconed all the screws back in and that took care of my leak. :)

captran

How I wish it were only the screws, but as I said in my original post, the hinge is bent and will not bend back, so there is at least a 1/8"gap between the hatch and the frame that  is around the starboard back corner, a total of about 8 inches.  For storage I bought some foam stripping and closed the hatch over it, but that won't work when I'm out cruising.  I see no recourse but to do the new hatch.  But I dread it.  It always turns out to be more complicated than it looks.