Eyebrow replacements from Catalina Direct

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rjthompson

Has anyone replaced their original teak eyebrows on C34 MK I with the beefier ones sold by Catalina Direct? I aborted the installation this weekend because I was worried I was going to break them. It seemed to require a lot of brute force to  bend them in 2 directions at once and then they wouldn't lay flat against the cabin roof. If anyone has done this successfully, I would really appreciate hearing about it.
Bob Thompson, Viento Loco, Hull #195

learjetzz

Yes replaced the O.E.M. with ones a friend made (duplicated) out of Ipay Brazilian Iron wood sanded smooth and applied them with 3-M moulding tape that you can buy at your local Auto parts store.Before laying them up, fill screw holes , clean good with Acetone , have a friend help you lay the strips in place, and apply pressure. This does work, it also works well on  the mast boot application, top and bottom and then clear bead of RTV , the sail slot had packed with White RTV with a slight taper on the top , 3 yrs. later no leaks mast boot and eyebrows still where I put them.

Good Luck

Ron Hill

Lear : A number of us have completely removed our eyebrows. 
I used #4 screws and finishing washers with a dab of caulk to fill the holes.  The old eyebrows are completely refinished and hanging in the attic -- waiting for the next owner!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

rjthompson

Thanks for your response Lear, I never thought about the 3M tape, much better idea than the adhesive I was planning on using. What were the dimensions of the eyebrows you have installed? Did you put them on all in one piece, or did you do them in sections?
Not ready to resort to "studs" yet Ron, but I'll keep that in the back of my mind. Thanks.

Bob
Bob Thompson, Viento Loco, Hull #195

learjetzz

rj,
when my buddy duped them he finger jointed them in the center , brought them to the boat and used gorilla glue after the glue cured i just ran a bead of super glue on the seam . when you lay your new ones up make sure your have a refence for both ends and especially in the center to keep every thing looking good .

Good Luck to You

rjthompson

Thanks Lear. Catalina Direct provided a "scarf joint" (modified butt joint) and recommended West System epoxy to put them together. The joint failed as soon as we started to shape the eyebrow on the cabin roof.
I had received an email notification of a reply from "Scotty", but don't see it on the thread, so Scotty... If you're monitoring, please try your response again.

Bob
Bob Thompson, Viento Loco, Hull #195

crieders

Why remove them? I have refinished them several times and its no big deal. You can easily remove any varnish etc with West removal system or a dremel with a rotating sander. Cetol makes them look great after acid wash.
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Ron Hill

Cliff : It's that much less teak - NOT to do. 
Infact it took a fellow C34 owner about 2 months before he noticed that I had removed mine. 
Ron, Apache #788

scotty

My response was kind of gorky, but here is what I said:  The traditional way to do it would be to make a jig, and bend the eyebrow pieces using a steam table.  The jig is really easy to construct: Mount cut 2x4 blocks on a backing board.  Shave then to the appropriate depth to match the contour of the cabin trunk.  You can measure the contour using a 2x4 and pieces of cardboard.  With a bit of work you can get the bevel correct also.  Once the jig is made and checked, loosely clamp the eyebrow.  Now make the steam table.  Cover the whole thing with several layers of blue tarps and blankets.  Tape closed with duct tape, leaving one end open and attached to a big bucket of water.  Heat the bucket and make steam.  Tighten the clamps in a couple of hours, let it sit overnight.  Install it the next day and let it dry in place for a few weeks before varnishing.

In reality I wouldn't go that route, I'd just attach it slowly to the cabin sides.  Wood likes to move slowly, so if you take your time, you should be able to attach the piece without breaking it.  I guess this is how a retired wood shop teacher thinks.
Scotty

rjthompson

Thanks Scotty, I don't have your wood working shop, but with your patience, Lear's moulding tape and some screws I should be able to make them work. Thanks all!

Bob
Bob Thompson, Viento Loco, Hull #195

learjetzz

rj,take your time and everything will go smoothly.

Good Luck and keep us posted

dave davis

I happen to be in LA, so I stopped in at the CY and bought a new replacement while they were still there. I did not realize how short my car was and how long the teak eye was. I drove all the way back home to San Francisco with the darn thing flapping out the window at highway speeds. Have Fun :clap 
Dave Davis San Francisco, 707, Wind Dragon, 1988, South Beach

Indian Falls

We pulled our eyebrows off as they were falling off in several places.  The screw holes were stripped.  The RTV the PO used to hold them had let go and collected lots of dirt.  I used a semi dull utility knife blade and back dragged it to remove the RTV works good, like using a paint scraper.  I then drilled all the holes to 1/4'' dia and filled them with white Goop super mend epoxy paste.  A plastic putty knife to smooth it in, and a piece of saran wrap on top to smooth it with fingers if needed.  Once it cured the saran wrap fell off and you can't tell there was a hole there.   I left the forward most hole open and undrilled as this will locate my eyebrows when we put them back on.  One of the old timers in the marina told me he uses window glass to scrape wood surfaces on his 50 year old all wood Ketch.  He says from a 3-4'' square you have 8 cutting edges.  I believe he's using it the same way as the back dragging of the utility blade.  I'll try it, an old basement window and a glass cutter should make for plenty of scrapers. 

C Rieders: What acid is used to treat the teak??  Thanks!
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

waterdog

Quote from: rjthompson on June 21, 2011, 11:20:26 AM
Thanks Lear. Catalina Direct provided a "scarf joint" (modified butt joint) and recommended West System epoxy to put them together. The joint failed as soon as we started to shape the eyebrow on the cabin roof.
I had received an email notification of a reply from "Scotty", but don't see it on the thread, so Scotty... If you're monitoring, please try your response again.

Bob
.  Teak is a traditional boaty wood and a scarf is a tradional boaty joint.  Only problem is that teak is naturally very oily wood. Glue does not like to stick to it and the scarf is totally glue dependent. So you need a joint with a mechanical lock or you need to make sure you get that oil out with a bit of acetone or similar solvent before you glue up.
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Indian Falls

I have discovered that Goop Super Mend Epoxy paste does not remain white.

I used this product to fill holes and some chipping and cracking repairs.  After several weeks in the sun it has taken on a greyish color.   

In my previous post I mention that you can't tell the holes were filled.  Good thing I'm putting my eyebrows back on because the patches are quite apparent but will be covered by the trim. 
I used the dull utility knife blades to scrape off all the old Cetol.  Works nice and fast unlike any kind of orbital sander.  No dust, no gouging, nice and smooth.  Now how do you do the teak you can't remove??
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?