Replacement for short/toy bow roller

[Mark Sutherland]

I have an '86 with the tiny bow roller.  I'd like to use a Bruce type anchor, but I don't believe the existing roller will work without pulling the anchor into the hull and damaging it.  So I think I need a longer roller, perhaps like the unit I've seen at Catalina Direct. 
I'm concerned about the amount of leverage that could be put on the longer roller unit in rolling seas where the bow is pitching up and down....  I've seen some of the great roller designs here, but these are beyond my capabilities to construct.  I have an idea of how I might relieve the pressure on the roller, but wanted your opinions(these ideas always sound great on paper or when sitting at home right?).  Once anchored, can't I relieve the pressure on the roller by grabbing the rode just BELOW/in front of the roller, manually haulling in about 5-8 feet of it(or motoring forward a few feet), and tying it off to the bow cleat?  Now when the boat pitches, won't the pressure be on the cleat and off of the roller?  Granted, when I haul the anchor in, I'll need to transition back to the roller, which will now need to bear the tension/weight of the rode, chain and anchor....  Your thoughts?  Thanks.
Mark Sutherland, Palomar

[waterdog]

A 15 kg will work fine on the short roller.  I've done that - and also a 20kg Rocna.    People call it a toy roller, but it is the optimal design from a leverage standpoint.   Also keeps the weight further aft where you want it.   Consider a little stainless rub strip as an alternative to protect against cosmetic damage.   

If you go with a longer roller, I think people are using standard designs and aren't having problems with them.   You need good through bolts and backing plate.   

If you do what you describe, pulling in a length of rode, where does the rode lead from the cleat?   It still has to feed through a chock or a roller of some kind.     

Don't bother putting any roller on that you wouldn't be confident of withstanding the pressures of surge while you are anchored. 

[Kevin Henderson]

Mark,
I've been researching the same issue for awhile now with my '88'.  There are some great posts on the board here especially the thread titled "anchor fit for C34".  The direction I am leaning, and I believe Stu and a few others have done is to keep the toy bow roller.  As for the anchor, the Rocna 10 is said to fit in nicely into the existing roller and stow away securely.  I also agree I would rather not go through the hassle of installing a longer bow roller unless absolutely necessary.  As for weighing the anchor and bringing it up without coming into contact with the precious gelcoat while rolling about???  I will be interested to hear some input from some of the 'saltier' folks of the board.  
I'll be watching closely.  

[Mark Sutherland]

I reviewed the "Anchor Fit For C34" link.  Am I wrong, or do I see the business end of that Rocna 10 up against the hull?  If so, I guess I could use Waterdog's idea of the SS rub strip to keep the anchor from damaging the hull.  Is notice Waterdog uses the Rocna 20.  Is the Rocna 10 sufficient, or should I go with the 20 to be safe(I'm in So. Cal.  IF anchoring, I'd probably be at Catalina.)

[Ron Hill]

Mark : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes and projects.  You'll see that and how I added a Windline CR1 roller (in 1991) that extends out further than the factory's 1989 roller (3-4").  Great things explained in those old tech notes.
A thought

[waterdog]

A snug Rocna doesn't actually touch the gelcoat.   The edge of it rides on the stainless stem fitting.  I had one little nick in my gelcoat which I filled and sanded.  I'm not sure if was from the 15kg Bruce or 20kg Rocna.   I've probably anchored more than 200 times, so it's pretty well tested.  

The 20kg Rocna is complete overkill.  15 would probably do just fine.  That's why I chose 20.   Never lost any sleep.  Stu is happy with 10 up in SF Bay.  

[scotty]

I went with the Ronca 15 (Kg) on my 1987.  I still have the small bow roller.  I'm very happy with its' fit.  I have a small stainless plate which I am in the process of placing (with epoxy) on the bow to hold off the anchor.  I'm still considering using a small piece of plastic instead of the stainless.  It might be prettier.  I bought a small cutting board from Ross (about $1) which I might cut to size.  Without this plate there is minor scraping. I also choose to make a small slit in the anchor locker hatch so that the shank of the anchor is hidden below the deck.  This mimics the arrangement of later model Catalina 34s.   I didn't want to go to the longer roller because of the leverage issue.  There are pictures on the "anchor fit for a Cat 34" thread that show a lot of anchors with both small and long anchor rollers.  I put pictures of mine on the thread "another Mk I Windless Install"
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6263.0.html

[Ron Hill]

Mark : you can also see my bow roller if you look at my windlass installation in Projects, WiKi or Mainsheet tech notes. 
I have a Bruce 33 and there is still a few inches before the anchor well doors. 

[Stu Jackson]

KEEP the toy!

Thanks to waterdog I'm really learning to love it.  Rocna 10 (22#) fits just fine.  Worried about the hull?  Do what has been suggested.  I have a tiny, tiny dent, easily fixable if I wanted to bother --- the anchor covers the ding.  

I anchor out almost every week.  NO need for an extended anchor roller, regrets to Ron who started this whole thing  , but I'm convinced there's NO NEED, as compared to want, to do it.

Just got back from another anchor out...

[waterdog]

The whole point of the beefy extended bow roller is for the modern plumb stem boat where hauling the anchor up will drag it up the topside.  We have a more classic design with a lovely overhang.  The roller is already well out there.  The anchor doesn't bang against the gelcoat.

[Stu Jackson]

Is the Rocna 10 sufficient, or should I go with the 20 to be safe(I'm in So. Cal.  IF anchoring, I'd probably be at Catalina.)

See this, Anchor Sizing Table:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4990.0.html

As Steve noted, they also make a 15 (kg).

[Ron Hill]

Mark :  I don't mean to get into an anchor decision, but I'd size the anchor to the boat length/weight (I prefer a 33/35 lb size for a C34) and then get the bow roller to fit that anchor.  My openion

[kurt]

Hello folks,

I just took delivery on a Rocna 15 (33lb) and have the "toy" bow rollers which I would like to continue to use unless I can't get a solid way to ensure the anchor is stable on the bow.  Looks like a few of you have good experience working through the issues on this. 

Question 1 - Right now the anchor does rub the gelcoat a bit when snugged up on the bow-roller and so my plan to try to get a small stainless piece to afix to my bow on top of which the anchor can rub.  I'd like to avoid putting any screws/bolts in if at all possible.  Is there a good strong way to attach a small 1/8" to 1/4" thick 3x4 inches stainless pad to gelcoat/fiberglass?

Question 2 - Because the anchor hits the side of the hull a bit it tends to twist the shank a bit so it is out of vertical - the shank ends up resting a bit on the headstay fitting.  I don't think this is a big issue but who knows when slamming to weather what could be happening up there.  Anyone have this issue with there set ups?  (I think it is straightforward to create a temporary shim to be used when sailing within the roller itself to force the shank into a more vertical position and off the headstay fitting.)

Thanks,

Kurt

[Ron Hill]

Kurt : I'd think the answer to your questions are obvious - you need to get the anchor out further!!!!

As I've already posted, look at my anchor roller mod. for your 1998.  That should do the trick!!   

[kurt]

Ron - that is certainly plan B.   I'm trying to avoid losing my center cleat and then also needing to add the two side cleats.  Much simpler if I can make toy bow roller work with a small stainless patch...  Kurt