Bent rudder post

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Momentum M

As I'm getting ready for the yearly splash I notice that the rudder post was bent (so little) last summer in heavy weed.  I was getting stuck in these weed so I had to rev up the motor to get me out of this situation.  I had to rock the boat (forward-reverse many times).   The rub indicate that it was going in reverse that the post got bent.
Now the upper end (round portion) of the rudder is rubbing on the round cavity of the hull.  It's barely touching but enough to remove the antifowling and a bit of the gelcote.
I'd like to know how to correct this problem...
The boat is still on the hard and on the cradle...do you think that I can use an hydraulic jack, pushing from the cradle, with a 4"X4" as an extension and a protector (2"X4"?) of the front of the rudder in order to spread the pressure.  I would pressure the lowest end of the rudder.
Originally the top of the rudder was parallel to the bottom of the hull and now it's about 1/4" wider at the rear end so I don't think that I got a very big bend in the post.

I'm attaching a picture of my rudder when I took delivery of the boat...so the post was straight then!!
Serge & Carole Cardinal
C 34 Mk II 2005 - 1719
Wing Keel
Fresh water, Ontario Lake, Canada/Usa
On Hard from Oct to May

Michael Shaner

Serge...this is a tough one to weigh in on, but my experience has been once any tube has been bent, there now exists a significant weak point. Bending it back while in place would be darn near impossible. Of all the things on your boat you want to be able to depend on, the rudder post would rank very high. At a minimum, I would drop the rudder and investigate further. Sorry in advance for the bum opinion, but I couldn't trust it, even if she did sail straight...
Michael & Alison Shaner

tonywright

A 34 at our club had the same problem. He replaced the rudder with a slighly shorter one in order to avoid similar issues in the future. (He added extra surface area to compensate for loss of depth).

Tony
Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

Momentum M

Thanks you.....the rudder is intact and I would guess that the bottom of it might be an inch or so off..if I could only stop the rubbing I would be satisfied.  To change the rudder for a smaller one would mean a new post and rudder since, I guess, they come as one part!!
Also the bent is so small that I don't think that it is weaken...and straigthening it would be so little.
I guess if I have to change it I will but I'd like to at least try...so really the question is what would be the best way to attempt the job?
Any ideas?
Serge & Carole Cardinal
C 34 Mk II 2005 - 1719
Wing Keel
Fresh water, Ontario Lake, Canada/Usa
On Hard from Oct to May

Gary Brockman

If you choose to keep your current rudder, the easiest way to fix your rubbing problem may be to shave off a bit of the top of the rudder so that it will clear the bottom of the boat again. Depending on how much you need to take off, you may not have to re-glass the top of your rudder.
Squall
1986 Hull #231
Tall Rig/Fin Keel - Elliptical Rudder
M25XPB - Flexofold 2 Blade 15x10
Marina del Rey, California

Ron Hill

Serge : I'd keep what you have - make the necessary clearance to the hull skag (probably on the rudder rather than the hull), but NOT try to straighten it!!
A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Ken Juul

After you go stuck, how did the boat handle?  Poor handling would be the first indication of a problem.  If you are not noticing any binding (other than the rubbing) I would guess that your shaft is straight.  The bend is probably in the internal steel webbing structure within the rudder itself.  Trying to straighten that will cause further internal weakening.  While its on the hard I'd really check out the rudder to ensure it's structurally sound.  Grab the bottom and pull side to side, front and back, lock the steering and try twisting.  If it handled ok and you find no unusual creaks or movement then you are probably ok to grind off a little of the rudder for clearance.  Make sure you give the rudder a good visual inspection, especially on the top where it is hard to see to make sure there are no cracks.  Also look at the lower end of the rudder tube, make sure it hasn't moved.  While it's on the hard it might be prudent to drop the rudder a few inches to give everything a good visual check.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

lazybone

#7
On the earlier models the rudder post hangs and rides on a nylon washer/aluminum (cap) headstock.  If you remove the headstock and machine about a quarter inch off the bearing surface it will drop the whole rudder and increase the hull clearence.
If your model is the same than this would save hacking up the rudder or hull.
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Ron Hill

Ciao : That would be a solution for a standard transom MK I, but Serge has a walk thru transom with a completely differant upper rudder column set up. 
Ron, Apache #788

Momentum M

Hi guys and thanks for your input.  I've managed to get a few pictures on the week end and as you can see it's not much.  I think, as opposed to sanding down the rubbing surface, I'll let it do it's own rubbing!!!  You can see that the top of the rudder is not parallel to the hull...so lightly.
On the other side there's no rubbing.  Short of this little rub the rudder is in good shape so I'll let do it's own adjustment.
I haven't notice any difference in handling the boat....so maybe I'll get into some more weed...going forward and it will correct itself :santa

Thansk again
Serge & Carole Cardinal
C 34 Mk II 2005 - 1719
Wing Keel
Fresh water, Ontario Lake, Canada/Usa
On Hard from Oct to May