Managing Alternator output and heat

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Bobg

Was studing the archives  on Alternator heat and amp managers and it got me to thinking,

Does anyone know if a internally regulated 55 amp alternator can be controlled to put out less amps, (like the switch Stu put in) or if a temperature control can be put on it to shut  down the amp output at a certain temp?  Or do I need external regulation to access these features. I have replaced my old Motorola 55 amp with a 55 amp Mando and have severe heat issues when charging my (very slightly discharged) 4 new 6V batteries, (the new alternator will get so hot it has seized and burned the belt)

Is it possible the old OEM motorola was a better made Alternator?

btw, if I drop the output charge wire from the Alt, it will run cool all day and I do have a #6 output from the Alt to the house bank, and a #2 negative wire.
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Stu Jackson

Hi, Bob, welcome back to this subject.  The last I recall was this post which has links to earlier discussions:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3398.msg39334.html#msg39334

Internally regulated alternators cannot be temperature sensored or controlled as I've done, 'cuz that works with external regulators.  If wired correctly, you could simply turn off your key switch at the cockpit control panel, or put a toggle switch in line with the field wire to turn your alternator off, but that would defeat the entire purpose of installing a new alternator.

I remain convinced that you have a wiring issue, especially your #6 wire from the alternator to the house bank, and IIRC, you provided a very good wiring diagram which eventually appeared to be just fine after our lengthy discussions about your system.

I also recall that you may have had your new T-105 batteries checked out.

Other than suggesting that you check each and every one of your connections and assure yourself that your electrical design wiring diagram is correct AND that it is actually installed that way, there's not much more we can do to help from here.

You seem to want to ascribe the overheating to the new alternator, but it could well be your wiring and/or connections.

Wish i could be there with you to trace your system out again.  :cry4`
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Bobg

Thank you Stu, just this morning my Auto Electric guy, took my new alternator apart and he could see where there was rubbing from the armature to the stator, and one of the windings were broken, must have happened when the alt got so hot it seized .  I will upgrade that #6 wire from the alt to the house banks to a number 2.

Yes the batteries were checked out under a load twice and deemed good.  All I essentially did, was swap out alternators from a Motorola to a Mando. install new batteries, and upgraded all the wiring to a bigger.size, remember, I used to have a #10 or 12 go from the alternator to the ignition switch, I now go from the alt output to the house bank via the #6
My Auto Electric guy thinks it is a defective Alternator from the factory, the internal tolerances are too close to compensate for the heat generated at full amps, I don't know, will keep you posted.  and thank you very much   Bob
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Stu Jackson

Bob, I am so very glad to hear that.  Not, of course, that you had a big problem, but more that you seem to have solved it.  It's odd, but many times the obvious seems to escape us, and we assume new stuff is OK when it really IS the issue.  Your new alternator, for example, and pretty much the same difficulties I've reported on the connections of the ring terminals and fuse holders on our new regulator wiring harness.  I also had the housing of our Blue Circle alternator crack, as I mentioned in the Critical Upgrades topic on the "check your engine" post.

All the best, can't wait to hear when it all comes together properly for ya.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#4
Bob : If you really want to treat your new batteries right, get a hi output alternator and an external voltage regulator.  I.E. -- The Balmar ARS 5 (voltage reg.) can limit the amperage output and also sinse alternator temperature.

A few thoughts     :thumb:
Ron, Apache #788

Bobg

Ron,  am certainly thinking along those lines, after reading all the excellent archieves you guys have put together thru the years, and the courteous patience this board has for its members A guy would be foolish not to take the advice offered. In fact when I bought my boat, the PO had nothing but rave reviews about the support offered and that helped make up my mind to purchase a catalina 34.  Thanks guys.  Bob
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands