Another MK1 windlass installation...

Mike and Joanne Stimmler · February 17, 2011, 12:52:07 PM

Thanks Ken, I thought I had a picture of my chain locker but I couldn't find it.
I'll have to wait till I get back to the boat and take a look.

Michael Shaner · February 17, 2011, 05:12:14 PM

Mike,

Rick Johnson put a V1 in a single door anchor locker (HN 1110)...

Wiki link http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Lewmar_V-1_Vertical_Windlass_Installation_on_1990_Catalina_34

Bobg · February 18, 2011, 07:33:12 AM

very well done, I just turned 65 and have really been thinking in this dirrection, thank you

Mike and Joanne Stimmler · February 18, 2011, 01:18:48 PM

That IS very nice, but I wonder if it would be easier to use a horizontal windless as in Ken's picture.

Rick Johnson · February 19, 2011, 07:28:13 AM

Yes it would have been for me, but part of my decision was made by the very low price of the V1 at the time. I cannot speak for others. I'm still very happy with the installation and have not had any issues.

Cheers

scotty · March 04, 2011, 09:02:28 PM

Question: in the V1 wiring diagram there is a Thermal Cut-out (two yellow wires) that come out of the windlass motor. Do those connect into the switch circuit just after the fuse?? It seems that is the case, but I thought I'd check with someone who has done the wiring. Thanks!

scotty · March 07, 2011, 10:34:27 PM

Another V1 Windlass has been installed. It took me quite a while to figure out what I wanted, but it now is installed on our boat and it was really worth the effort. When I've finished all the details, I'll post some pictures. Mostly I've followed the lead of Michael Shaner and Ron Hill, and all the other contributors. Some small variations. I've got to tell you that the information shared in these posts made a huge assistance to - what I hope is - a job well done. I'm very pleased with the new windlass, and looking forward to finishing up the details, and then moving onto the next project. Oh yes, my wife tells me we should just sail it for a while! (Great wife!)

Hey, I have another question: In the Tech Wiki, Ron Hill says that he used small pieces of wire to mark the chain distances. How did that work out for you, Ron? Also, what size of wire and how did you attach them?

Ken Juul · March 08, 2011, 04:51:35 AM

you can use wire or light nylon cord. I use cord, simply untwist the 3 strand and place the marker between the strands then release the twist so the rode returns to normal. I normally anchor in 8-10' of water so my first mark is at 75', then a mark every 25'. If I want less scope, I guestimate between the end of my 40' chain and the first mark. To remove any chance of confusion, I used a sharpy to annotate on the underside of the anchor locker lid where the marks are located.

Other methods use colored whipping twine or a sharpy for the marks. Some use number of strands or black marks, 1 at 25', 2 at 50', 3 at 75', 4 at 100', start over with 1 at 125', etc. to show the length. If you choose whipping twine, different colors could be used in a similiar fashon.

scotty · March 08, 2011, 06:39:20 PM

Thanks, Ken. I am curious specifically about the chain portion. I have 60 ft of chain and want to mark at the 30', 40' and 50'. Can wire work there, and how is it attached? Thanks. For the rope portion, I've had good luck with yellow plastic/nylon with printed distance (depth) marks.

Stu Jackson · March 08, 2011, 07:36:50 PM

Scotty, I wouldn't bother with the 30 and 40 ft. markings. Why? 'Cuz with a 6:1 scope (bow height not included for simplicity) in ten feet of water, you'd be using all of the chain anyway, and if you're anchoring in less than 10 feet, you may want to rethink your position or simply have more scope out. In our neck of the woods, anchorages aren't half as tight as they are in other places in the country.