How Do I Tell if My Rudder is Good?

[waterdog]

My original thought was to replace my rudder before going to Mexico to avoid rudder failure at some embarrassing point, say in a gale off the mouth of the Columbia River.   But the refit bill seems to run between 25 & 30K and I'm looking hard at every expenditure.  No point in having the perfect boat if you there is no money left to cruise with.

So I don't want to throw away a perfectly good rudder.  If I drop it and visually inspect, will it tell me anything?  If I cut into it and it's dry and the welds are good on the webbing, is it good for another 20 years?   Have there been any reports of failure?   Is there any particular tests it should be subjected to?  Am I paranoid?  Are they still after me or have they stopped?

I don't have a lot of confidence in surveyors.   I don't know if they have been sued too much around here or what the issue is, but I seem to get opinions based on potential liability rather than actual condition.   I fear if I tell them I am concerned about the rudder, the only answer I will get is "replace it". 

[Ron Hill]

Steve : There have been numerous articles on checking the rudder and fixing it!!!  If you've ever seen rusty water weeping from the rudder during winter layup - that's a tel tail sign.
For a short reply, here's what I recommend you do:
1.  Remove the emergency tiller cap.  If the stainless column has water in it (more than just condensation) you've got water in the core.
2.  Drill a few holes in the lower half of the rudder itself.  If water seeps out - you know what that means!!

I'd check with Catalina on the rudder pricing because I don't know where you got "between 25 & 30K $"?
There have been a number of C34 owners that have replaced their rudder for about $1500.  You need to check the factory's current pricing.  Good Luck

[waterdog]

Thanks Ron.   The $25 to $30k is the sum of everything of which the rudder is a small part.  But all the small parts add up. 

If the rudder is wet, that will tell me it needs attention / replacement.  If it's dry, does that follow that it's probably in good shape?

[horsemel]

HI Steve,
I did the drill the holes in the rudder trick year before last.  I drilled them after the boat was hauled in the winter and let them air out all winter.  Yes, I had water run out of the rudder when I drilled the holes.  Make sure you drill some higher up on the rudder, not just in the lower section.  In the spring a friend and I dropped the rudder to be able to seal well around the top of the rudder where it meets the column.  Make sure you  block under the rudder so the whole thing doesn't fall out on the ground!  I used a jack to raise and lower it, worked well.  In the spring I filled the holes with epoxy and glassed over them.  I also filled the column with expanding foam.  I haven't had any problems and don't know if I will.  I suppose if I was going the distance that you are planning I might have replaced the rudder, but since we pretty much sail around Lake Erie I don't think it is quite the concern for me.  I would imagine that most of the older 34's have water in the rudder.
Mark Mueller
#815 Blue Moon

[Footloose]

Steve

You may want to get hold of a moisture meter and see how much of the rudder has water in it.  When we had our boat surveyed it show water only in a small area in front of the post that was wet.  I also did the repair, although I brought my rudder home and put in the basement next to the furnace for the winter.  I have no more rust streaks and feel pretty secure about my rudder.

[waterdog]

Thanks guys.

For all that's written about rudders and moisture, the likelihood that I have some pristine 20 year old rudder is very small.   I think I should stick to the original plan - new rudder & new rig & everything else is for comfort and convenience.   I don't think this is the place to save a few bucks. 

[Ted Pounds]

The other advantage to a new rudder, besides peace-of-mind, is the greatly improved performance in heavy weather.  That's due to the new 'elliptical' design.  Also you probably have the mild steel webbing in your old rudder.  The new one will have stainless steel webbing.   

[canuck]

Well, you can always take it out of the package and blow it up. Oh sorry, I thought it was "rubber"!
My apologies, must be this strong Canadian beer affecting my eyesight!

[John Fogelgren]

I would like to inspect my rudder's internal moisture, but have been unable to remove the aluminum cap from the stainless steel rudder post.  I have tried heat, lubricant, and muscle, but have been unsuccessful.  Any ideas?

[hump180]

hacksaw blade held in the hand worked up and down on the front of the cap. Once you get through the cap, get a screwdriver or other tool to put in the slot you made and split the cap. It should come right off, but of course you will need a new cap.

[Ron Hill]

John : You emergency tiller cap is made out of aluminum.  Take a Dermal and cut a slot as suggested by the previous post - then use the screwdriver to open that slot.

Order another tiller cap from Catalina parts and make sure that you put a coating of grease so the new one won't fuse to the stainless rudder column.  A few thoughts